seth's dad Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 hi all, has anyone fitted a rear floor crossmember part no nrc4171 for a 110 csw. mines got the tin worm and was just wondering how awkward a job they are to change. it looks a bolt on part but getting the old one out across the chassis and the new one in looks tricky, any thoughts welcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 The most common method seems to be cut the new one in half (or three), fit it, then weld it back together. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 25, 2010 Share Posted September 25, 2010 yrm-metal solutions do a galvanised version that has bolt on brackets, might be worth a look, here I'll go for one of these when mine needs replacing, there was/is a stainless steel 3 piece variant out in webland too, but can't remember who makes it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diff Posted September 27, 2010 Share Posted September 27, 2010 Replaced mine a couple of years ago on my 1985 110 CSW without removing the body or the second row floor. It is a fiddly job. I had to cut the old one into numerous pieces to get it out. I then found that the top of the chassis rail underneath the rotten crossmember was also holed. It was a very tricky job to remove the rot and weld in a repair plate. Had to use a small mirror to see where I was welding. I also found that the webs supporting the big chassis crossmember on top of the rails (which supports the rear A frame) were rotted (terrible mud traps) so I had to cut these out and replace them before I replaced the body crossmember. I cut the new one in two, cut the two body brackets off the ends, removed the passenger side sill and fiddled the two halves in from the one side (one after another), but it was very very tight. Given Landrovers build tollerances you might not be able to do this on every one! I then welded the two halves together and welded the body mount brackets back on and bolted it on. If I was doing another I would cut the new cross member into 3 pieces rather than two, cut off the mounting brackets and then fit the three sections from between the chassis rails. Then weld together and weld the body brackets back on. Regards, Diff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Smith Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 I know it's an old topic, but I did mine today. Cut the old one up to get it out and used the YRM with separate brackets to replace it. Removed the screws along the back edge of the middle row floor, they get in the way. Then with the sills off I could thump it through under the right hand sill channel with a soft mallet, if you come from the left side you won't get it under the fuel pipes because of the angle. Had to jack the sill about 2mm to get it in the last bit, but didn't need to unbolt the body as there was enough flex. then bolt the brackets on and it's done. And it took an awful lot longer to do than to explain, and you will need lots of pound coins for the swear box! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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