Vulch Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Hi! I have done a search on this one, but to no avail! It may also be that this is completely normal Defender behaviour, but here goes: When I put the heater to warm and turn the heater fan on to try to demist the front screen, the misting gets even worse, with water droplets condensing on the windscreen just where the vents are blowing. I reckon that the air 'feels' a bit damp too. My thought: Leaky heater matrix dumping water vapour into the air.... I had a look at the water level in the engine and it doesn't seem to be changing much, but then it probably wouldn't - the volume of water I'm talking about would be really quite small. Also, when I turn the heater fan on when the ignition is on with the engine not running I do hear a tricking/burbling of water from the vent on the nearside wing, which seems to feed the air heater. I was about to just pull it all apart to have a look, but the outside of the box looks a little bit more involved than that! It's a 93 200Tdi. 110, but I'm sure thats irrelevant. Thanks for any help anyone can give me! Vulch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crwoody Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Not an uncommon problem I think, because the heater air intake is on the top of the wing, it tends to get a fair bit of water going in there. There should be a rubber "Duck Bill" drainage point on the bottom of the inlet pipe/box under the wing top, these are inclined to get full of crud and block up thus preventing drainage. I'd start there first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Take the vent top off and get a torch and have a look inside, you will probably find a puddle of water/damp bit if the "duckbill" water drain is blocked. Removing the heater is not a terribly difficult job, but check the above first. I recall when I took mine off there where 2 small holes in the heaater matrix housing in the bottom ( I presume to let any matrix leaks to escape the air box) What you could do it have a feel under the box to see if its damp/wet - you'll probably find its horrible and muddy so you might have to try and clean it a bit before you manage to work out if its mointure coming out the box. Mav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vulch Posted October 25, 2010 Author Share Posted October 25, 2010 Dang you guys are good! I took off the vent top and lo and behold - a pool of murky water full of gunk. The duck bill drain was blocked. In order to help others who might read this thread: The duck bill can be felt as a round rubber lined hole inside the vent at the lowest point in the cavity. The other end can be reached with your other hand - inside the engine bay underneath the screenwash reservoir. Wiggle this end whilst poking the upper end and it should clear. I hope that this was the problem - just need some cold weather to see if the problem has actually gone away - shouldn't have to wait too long! Vulch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobson Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 I had the exact same problem last year, i ended up taking the rubber valve out completely, the theory being any water getting in, will come straight back out again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 For some reason I dont have the pipe work from wing top vent to what I guess is the fan? so this is full of sand, mud, and water etc. whats the best way of cleaning this lot out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 For some reason I dont have the pipe work from wing top vent to what I guess is the fan? so this is full of sand, mud, and water etc. whats the best way of cleaning this lot out? Just remove the heater-box and clean it out while off the vehicle, not difficult and at least you will know you have got all the muck out. Make sure you order new seals before starting, if the heater-box to bulkhead seal is knackered (which it is bound to be) you won't get a good seal and therefore heater performance will be lost. New seals are about £10. I assume you will be fitting a new inlet duct any time soon? That way you will be taking in air from the top of the wing and not from in the engine-bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Yup, heater performance improved a lot on my 90 when I put a new seal on I also removed the duck bill thingy from the inlet tract, it's meant to stop large volumes of water getting in from underneath I believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 nope, it's to allow water to drain out, same as on the air cleaner casing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Well, I meant why it was there as opposed to just a hole...which does a better job of letting water out through it but not quite as good a job of keeping it from coming in through it It's a rudimentary one-way valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonost24 Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 I think you've missed the obvious. It's been fitted with the optional LR sauna system............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 I'd swap moist air coming out from my heater vents for what I seem to have at the moment. In the last two days I have had 4 very large wasps come out of the vents when turned on. One popped out on the M3 and I had to make a stop to get rid of it! :angry: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonost24 Posted October 25, 2010 Share Posted October 25, 2010 Ah yes.....the LR wasp option........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terra Dog Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 LOL amusing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted October 26, 2010 Share Posted October 26, 2010 Said valve mentioned above is more commonly known as a fanny valve for obvious reasons Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frogland Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 I've been feeling my fanny but it's got a cap on it,i tried to twist it off but was unable to .How do i open my fanny ? I want to let the moisture out !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 just squeeze it & it'll let the water drain out. it's meant to self seal when water pressure is from the outside when deep wading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frogland Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 just squeeze it & it'll let the water drain out. it's meant to self seal when water pressure is from the outside when deep wading. I'll give it a go,but the plastic feels quite firm I may have to undo both jubilee clips on each side and take the whole bit off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 it should be made of rubber item 12 on page 623, looks like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frogland Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 it should be made of rubber item 12 on page 623, looks like this Thanks westaern i was looking at the point where the air duct pipe leaves the wing intake and goes down to a kind of dead end T then another air pipe goes back up again (sorry if that's a bit vague) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 Thanks westaern i was looking at the point where the air duct pipe leaves the wing intake and goes down to a kind of dead end T then another air pipe goes back up again (sorry if that's a bit vague) that'll be a 300tdi air intake ducting for the engine not heater. item 10 page 564 that you were fiddling with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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