removing lower dash

[lloydefender]

i have a wiring problem behind dash and it reqires removing the lower dash. i have taken all the screws out and it seems like it is still solid in the middle and passengers side. how is it held in?? please help

lloyd

[western]

which exact model are you working on ?

[lloydefender]

its a defender 90 1989 200tdi

[western]

the lower dash is also the heater air duct, it maybe stuck where the rectaugular duct comes through the bulkhead,

remove [if you haven't already] the grey tray insert, should be 3 or 4 plastic rivet to prise out along the front edge under the dash vents, there is some screws on the top edge of the metal plate now expoesd.

pages 929 & 930 should help you find the fixings locations

hth.

[Maverik]

The main lower dash (air duct) section is "hung" of the bulkhead with I think its 2 x M5 bolts, (have a poke around they reasonably obvious. The dash is literally hung off them on 2x square hooks. I take it you've removed most of the upper dash already, you have to, to pretty much to get to these bolts.

There is very little wireing that is actually covered up by the lower dash, what kind of fault do you have?

[lloydefender]

i think a wire has melted or something has happened. i have voltage going into the bulkhead but nothing at the fuses. no lights wont start no dash lights etc. have traced all the wires and its o.k until the wires go into bulkhead so im thinking its behind the dash somewhere

[Retroanaconda]

Fusebox should be fed from the ignition switch, do you have a supply both into and out of that?

[Maverik]

I think you have 2 different questions running here.

Before you dismantle your dash, you should outline what the full elec problem is and how it happend? did the fault happen over night or did you short out the +ve on the starter motor on a brake pipe using a spanner (like I did - popped all sorts of things)!? also what have done to fault find so far. The feedback from guys on here could probably avoid you having to remove it.

If the negative terminal on you battery has come loose/bad connection then that could give those symptoms amongst other things...

[lloydefender]

o.k ill try my best. i went to start it one day and it was like the starter was sticky or jammed. my battery was not the best either so went flat during process. i tryed to jump start from my other car but no ignition or anything. lights etc all no power, full charged the battery and re fitted and still no power to anything. got a wiring diagram and traced all wires from starter into bulkhead which have 12v. checked the earth which was al very good. i have sence got into ignition barrel and there is no power getting to it. seems like the problem is occuring from bulkhead to ignition barrel.

if anyone has any idea s or diagrams of ignition barrel that would help

[Maverik]

Ok, your ignition switch gets power from the battery via the starter motor, if you look on thst starter motor solanoid there will be a thick red wire and 2 brown wires going onto the same stud, this is your main ignition feed - I would check this make sure its a good connection!!! the 2 brown wires can be traced around the back of the engine to a multiplug where it then pops through the bulkhead to the igntition switch. the white/red wire coming out the ingnition switch is the signal wire so switch the starter solenoid open (you will see the white/red wire on a tab connector on the starter solanoid also.

Check you have 12v at the starter solenoid, then open the multi plug with the 2 thick brown wires, then check you have 12v there. I would then either check the 2 brown contacts on the ignotion switch for 12v in.

Now you've said that you have no 12v to the switch, to narrow down where you could have a fault in the wire between switch and bulkhead plug, I'd check from the connector through the bulkhead to the ignition switch for continuity. or check that plug too, make sure the terminals are clean as they often fill up with crud!!!

Before takeing out the whole dash, which you will have to do! I would make up a couple of wires and bypass the bulkhead bit of wireing, so connect from the multi plug (engine loom one) and fit directly to the ignition switch and see if it works... if it does then I would go find the wire fault.

As regards removing your dash, you will have to remove the dial facesure, then pop the windscreen vents screws and a couple of other big screws on that then take the grab handle off the passanger side, remove the gray plastic bit, this should expose the top of the vent box and 99% of the wireing. you will only have to remove the lower section to get access to the actual bulkhead penetration. once you have the gray flimsy bit of plastic off will you find the 2 hanging bolts I outlined earlier...

Have you removed any other parts of the dash yet?

Sorry for long winded approche just verbally running through the checks I would do...

[lloydefender]

o.k thanks . i have done many things now and the landy has started. been fine all day. left it a few hours and now

the starter spinning and sound like solinoid popping in and out but not starting the engine. after a few attempts its still got ignition lights but not wanting to engage starter. i think i have some problem with the starter motor. the annoying this is a dont no what i have done to fix it!!. im thinking the starter is possibly jamming?? looked at removing starter today looks like a hard job to get into??

[Maverik]

haha, not unusual! if you opened up the engine loom plug that could have been the problem, probably a poor connection somewhere.

I found I had all lights, nice starter "click" but no engine turning, found that the solenoid switch inside was fried. I managed to pick up a new Lucas one on fleebay My link - this might not be the same one for your starter, you'll have to check.

Getting the starter out is a bit of a kripton factor... the first time I removed it, I did it with the bonnet and the cabin heater still installed. its very tight and you have to disconnect the exhaust pipe off the turbo, you can get to the starter bolts but it is quite fiddly and you need a short extension bar for your ratchet.

It can be done with a fair bit of patience, getting the starter out of the hole once the bolts are out is also tricky, but again you can do it you just have to jiggle it until it comes out.

You can just remove the solenoid "in situe" I've done that also, again that is also very fiddly, but in your case I would try get the whole starter off so you can see what you're doing.

I've got a "britpart" starter on at the moment and just re-furbing the original Veleo Starter. expecting to have to change it out again in the not so distant future!

I did it in sub zero temperatures when there was snow around, I'd get it done before it snows again! not so pleasant! taking the bonnet off would give you a lot more room, its not difficult to slide it out, easier with another person to help remove, but do able by yourself too.