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fuse box replacement


dudley

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My 1998 defender 300 tdi nearside lights blew a fuse. I replaced the 5amp fuse and it was fine for a few weeks. However yesterday I smelt burning and found the fuse had not only blown again but melted itself into the fuse carrier. This is a black boat shaped block with two rows of spade fuses, and situated above and slightly off centre to three yellow relays (air con model) under the dash in front off gear levers. I could just put an in line fuse in for the lights but want to do the job properly. I could not find a picture of a fuse block on line so I called my local LR dealer parts dept. This is where we had trouble identifying the part, after some time, with my description he found what he calls a "fuse block", and for only £5, it is out of stock but I ordered one anyway.

Do you think this "fuse block" will be the right part? and as I have not removed the old melted one as yet, how easy will it be to replace?

Thank you Steve.

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Generally the fuse box is part of the main wiring harness. Big money new, but available second hand. They can be had from Vehicle Wiring Products (Google them) if you want to do a DIY replacement.

Personally, I'd be looking for the cause of the fuse blowing before replacing the fuse box...

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definitly find the wiring problem first & fix the fault/melted wires before changing the fusebox.

I thought the fault may have been at the actual fuse, like shorting via a loose spade connections, (not that I noticed a poor fuse connection) rather than a wiring fault, as I would have expected the correct sized fuse to have blown rather than melted with a wiring fault, or would it, and am I possibly looking at a fault somewhere else?

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fuses go for a reason, so there must be a fault somewhere on that circuit. could be a problem at the light unit or switch or the contacts at the fusebox touching something they shouldn't.

if you haven't got these attached are the fuse colour/size in amps & circuits they protect

post-20-013538400 1289494849_thumb.jpg

post-20-029497600 1289494868_thumb.jpg

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fuses go for a reason, so there must be a fault somewhere on that circuit. could be a problem at the light unit or switch or the contacts at the fusebox touching something they shouldn't.

if you haven't got these attached are the fuse colour/size in amps & circuits they protect

hi western. just wondered if these fuse values/stroke circuits they protect can be used on a 200 tdi model/early 2.5 td model as a friend wants his rewirng and has not got a fuse colour/circuit chart hope that makes sense.

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For what it is worth... When I removed the speaker enclosures in the back of he load area of my 93 NAS D110, I found frayed wires and burn marks on the paint on both sides. The panels were steel covered with carpeting that enclosed the rear area above the seat boxes. They had started to corrode and there was rust scale all over the places. I suspect the scale had caused the problem. But I did find why the rear wiper would not stop in its park position. Of yeah, the panels and speakers went into the trash.

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hi western. just wondered if these fuse values/stroke circuits they protect can be used on a 200 tdi model/early 2.5 td model as a friend wants his rewirng and has not got a fuse colour/circuit chart hope that makes sense.

my 110 is a ex-TD engined vehicle,these are the older glass tube fuses, below is a scan of my fuse circuit/ratings label, side/tail lights are 5amp fuse. the small label is for rear wiper & rear screen heater.

to change to the later blade fuses get a suitable fuse box from VWP or Autosparks & use the same fuse ratings as the old type fuses.

hth :D

post-20-023376100 1289499775_thumb.jpg

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fuses go for a reason, so there must be a fault somewhere on that circuit. could be a problem at the light unit or switch or the contacts at the fusebox touching something they shouldn't.

if you haven't got these attached are the fuse colour/size in amps & circuits they protect

Thanks Western,

I do have the fuses numbered in my handbook but the picture you attached is handy as it is exactly the part that is melted. And my Local LR parts department did also identify it correctly. So I now have the new fuse block holder to replace the melted one and when I remove it I will trace and check wiring all the way back to the nearside front and rear lights. I did rebuild the front off this vehicle at the end of last year (details were posted on here at the time) due to accident damage so possibly I have trapped or damaged a cable in the process.

Thanks again, Steve.

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hi steve my headlights started playing up just before mot and i found exactly the same as you.i didnt have time to replace it so just put an inline fuse in.i went to lr and ordered the fusebox it was about the same price.i dont think it was a short just old and tired fusebox with years of current going through it had cooked it(mine is a 94).i had a similar sitation years ago on an AA van where if you left the beacons on for too long the fuse plastic would melt off the blade fuse and hang down but the fuse did not blow.let me know how you get on with yours i havent done mine yet but went to vwp and got all new solder on fittings.i am thinking of moving the fusebox up the dash a bit.hope yours goes well.steve

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