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Transfer case replacement


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Hey Folks,

I've got a 1984 Defender 90, but with a 300Tdi engine, R380 tranny and the LT230 transfer case. Well, the transfer case is toast. The front bearing is shot. I've found a good used Disco LT230 at a decent price. (Yes, I know the gear ratios aren't the same). How big of a job is it to do the swap? I've got one shop quoting me 3 -4 hours and $280 while another says it's a major job and will cost $1040 in labor. I've done replacements like this on other vehicles, but never on a Rover. BTW, I live in SW Colorado where few people have any expertise with Land Rovers.

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Why not just change the front bearing?

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=25053

Failing that, if you can wave a spanner (wrench) then it should be possible to swap an LT230 over in a day easily, I did one in less than a day and it was my first time at it. Would take less time now, I'd know to unbolt the mounts from the chassis before attempting removal for instance!

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I'm new to Rovers, so I'm hesitant about all this, but I've done a fair bit of my own repairs in the past. Can the bearing be replaced without taking the t-case out? I'm also thinking that if I take the old case out, I should crack it open to see what's there. Some of the bearings (or crunched metal) could have gotten into the case.

Why not just change the front bearing?

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=25053

Failing that, if you can wave a spanner (wrench) then it should be possible to swap an LT230 over in a day easily, I did one in less than a day and it was my first time at it. Would take less time now, I'd know to unbolt the mounts from the chassis before attempting removal for instance!

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I;ve done a RRC T-Box on my driveway with wheel ramps under the front and a big trolley jack. Oh and a mate or 2 to help refit it, hold the lamps and make the tea.

You can DIY in a day if you start early enough and everything comes apart without breaking. Check carefully as you mate up the new casing on the dowels, I had a dowel burst the casing when I swapped the gearbox which wrecked a decent T-box.

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The front output bearing can be removed from the case in situ, you don't have to remove the box to do this, When you get it off then you will be able to remove the bearing-take the bearing to either a bearing sales place to get a replacement or go to your local land rover dealer and get hold of a replacement that way if you have a look in the tech archive look for Rave and down load it-this'll save you a small fortune on doing your own repairs-it'll also explain how to remove the front output part of the T box and not have to remove all of it saving yourself time and of course money, If when you've drained the oil out of it and you then find other damage to it then yes you'll have to remove it and replace it-this'll also be in Rave too

HTH

John

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Well, I chickened out. I got the Disco LT230 t-case from the salvage yard and took it to the cheap shop. Got a call this morning that the old t-case and new t-case had different configurations. "Oh carp," I thought. Well, thoughts were a little stronger than that. Turns out that the Disco case is 1/4" longer than the old case, the brake line has a pull rather than a switch and the doohicky that shifts from low to high has a big cable coming out of it rather than the simple switch on the old case. It looks like it will work though. At least I hope.

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Yep, all LT230s are the same size physically.

Some disco boxes have different brake linkages but you should be able to swap the Defender setup over without any issue.

As for the diff-lock and high-range, the same applies. As long as the Disco box has the centre lock, for a brief period they were made without (don't know if that happened that side of the pond like it did here...?).

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  • 1 month later...

A month after the transfer case went out and the Disco case went in, my clutch went out. It worked fine for another week after the clutch was replaced, but the shop disconnected the solenoid (not sure why) and the transfer case disengages, leaving me without power. The shop says that the solenoid can be reattached, but it would leave me with either high or low, not both. Any thoughts on this?

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