Mo Murphy Posted October 24, 2016 Share Posted October 24, 2016 That is a very good point. Another job added to the list ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 yes, I only ask myself why I was stupid enough NOT to do it when I had my dash off......no pills for stupid. so I will get some more practice taking my dash off again it seems. will be the most practiced LR dash remover EVA!! angry bilge blower fan ordered...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 You do not need to remove the dash. It is easy to do from the engine bay. The largest restriction is the dash vents, though. The bulkhead hole is not much of a restriction for the capacity of the stock fan. It helps only a little to open it up. A much larger increase can be had by opening up the dash vents. I've done the flow rate and heat output tests along with the calculations. I can show you the math, if you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 Would it not be possible to add some extra holes to the lower dash with a hole saw? I'm sure there would be some neat vent covers to fit into these somewhere on ebay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodumatau Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 now you talking!!, not only will it let more air out it will also mean that not only one shin get cooked, then you can bake both shins equally. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50mm-Dash-Air-Vent-Heater-Duct-Eberspacher-Webasto-/200557527510?hash=item2eb22901d6:m:mN3CZHDpvfDX3sogzS65P2w http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/84mm-Black-Rocking-Vane-Dashboard-Heater-Air-Vent-For-Kit-Car-Rally-/282010357111?hash=item41a9208d77:g:JbwAAOSwv-NWVxPg http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-fiesta-outer-dash-airvent-vent-2006-2007-2008-face-lift-dashPrice-per-Unit1-/182317446958?hash=item2a72f7772e:g:ES0AAOSwqYBWplGn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 10 hours ago, reb78 said: Would it not be possible to add some extra holes to the lower dash with a hole saw? I'm sure there would be some neat vent covers to fit into these somewhere on ebay? Sure. I've done both as I have a much larger than stock heater. Just be careful to understand where you are cutting so that the vent will not run into things like the flap control shaft. Here is a good company for parts: http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/en/heating-air-con-and-ventilation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 just finished 'supercharging' my 110's heater, fitted the blower I bought in my reply on page 4, wired the plain yellow into the purple/green wire of the standard heater blower wiring & the plain black to a nearby bolt for earthing purposes, runs very well at slow & fast speeds, will have to go for a long drive tomorrow to see what the extra airflow does to a fully warmed up heater matrix. it's fairly easy to get the blower into the heater duct via the wingtop intake hole, instead of trying to force it through the circular end hole that mates to heater box face, I didn't have to trim the inner end of the new blower case to fit, only to remove it's 2 support legs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 4 hours ago, western said: it's fairly easy to get the blower into the heater duct via the ingtop intake hole, instead of trying to force it through the circular end hole that mates to heater box face, I didn't have to trim the inner end of the new blower case to fit, only to remove it's 2 support legs. Just so I'm clear - you did it from the 'outside' rather than removing the air duct from below? Just popped into the top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 And to confirm for sure - with all the confusion over the size - Ruuman said Attwood 3000 4inch - but the 3000 series are 3 inch. I take it its the 4 inch version that you've ordered? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 34 minutes ago, Jocklandjohn said: Just so I'm clear - you did it from the 'outside' rather than removing the air duct from below? Just popped into the top? with plastic duct Removed from the vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Ah ok - that's more what I thought must happen! Cheers! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 27 minutes ago, Jocklandjohn said: And to confirm for sure - with all the confusion over the size - Ruuman said Attwood 3000 4inch - but the 3000 series are 3 inch. I take it its the 4 inch version that you've ordered? 4 inch or 101mm diameter as in the link Ruuman says, mines a 4 inch Attwood 4000 bilge blower this type http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Attwood-Turbo-4000-II-4-Inch-Marine-Boat-Bilge-Blower-12-Volt-Water-Resistant-/201482295786?hash=item2ee947d9ea:g:9sEAAOSwp5JWaZfn from the seller in the ebay link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted October 28, 2016 Share Posted October 28, 2016 Ok thank you. His use of the prefix 3000 threw me (despite saying it was a 4inch)! That vendor will be wondering why there's such a big rush on bilge blowers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 once the 2 support legs are cut off & filed to the same width as the 4 ribs it goes in quite easily, mines secured with 2 self tapping screws at the face that mates to heater box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 Mine when I fitted it ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 been fiddling with the blower motor wiring, found if the new blower is wired to the existing purple/green [existing blower 12v feed from fuse box] the new blower runs all the time with ignition on, I swapped the new blower feed to the exsiting green/slate grey wire & it runs on the 2 speed as the original motor, got to replace my slider switch as the cable outer covering has gone & the switch won't turn the blowers off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted October 29, 2016 Share Posted October 29, 2016 58 minutes ago, western said: been fiddling with the blower motor wiring, found if the new blower is wired to the existing purple/green [existing blower 12v feed from fuse box] the new blower runs all the time with ignition on, I swapped the new blower feed to the exsiting green/slate grey wire & it runs on the 2 speed as the original motor, got to replace my slider switch as the cable outer covering has gone & the switch won't turn the blowers off. Thanks chaps - ordered it this afternoon so will see what transpires! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 13 hours ago, western said: been fiddling with the blower motor wiring, found if the new blower is wired to the existing purple/green [existing blower 12v feed from fuse box] the new blower runs all the time with ignition on, I swapped the new blower feed to the exsiting green/slate grey wire & it runs on the 2 speed as the original motor, got to replace my slider switch as the cable outer covering has gone & the switch won't turn the blowers off. The Defender blower is switched on the earth side, not the feed, so that's why you had that issue. Connect the new blower's earth to the high speed earth wire (I can't remember which one it was) and it'll behave correctly and will only activate when the old blower is on high. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 1 hour ago, Snagger said: The Defender blower is switched on the earth side, not the feed, so that's why you had that issue. Connect the new blower's earth to the high speed earth wire (I can't remember which one it was) and it'll behave correctly and will only activate when the old blower is on high. That's correct and is how I plan to wire mine, if you were to just run the fan in parallel to the original motor the dropper resistor would be over run a bit (more than it already is) and its a bit awkward to swap. Of course you can put the dropper external to the duct and then pick a bigger dissipation and lower resistance to make both run faster. If you were to use the original dropper resistor for both fans the original fan will run even slower. this bloke on ebay must be 'blown away' by the run on his fans :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 ... Or you could just run it through a seperate switch and turn it on and off as required. Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 You all might find this of interest if you've not already come across it: https://dillydiary.com/2015/08/03/heater-blower/ and follow up and conclusion: https://dillydiary.com/2015/08/06/heater-complete/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 existing blower motor has a 2 wire plug/socket -- 1 = purple/green = 12v feed from fusebox, 2 = green/slategrey = output from the resistor pack a bit further up is a 3 pin plug/socket this comes from the switch assembly into the resistor pack so should be slow & fast speeds & 12v, wires are green/yellow, green/slate grey, purple/green. the new bilge blower has 2 wires yellow is 12v & black is earth, so I've connected the new yellow to the existing motors green/slate grey wire which should be the signal from resistor pack for slow/fast speeds. ??? once my new heater control switch arrives I can get it finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevm Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 My heater seems to work ok but it is slack in the housing and probably has some mud in it, so I intend to pull it apart and rebuild it sometime. Has anyone wrote a definative article on overhauling the standard heater motor and matrix? I had a search but can't find anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 this might help -- http://landytown.myfastforum.org/archive/defender-heater-matrix-removal-in-pictures__o_t__t_1383.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 5 hours ago, Mo Murphy said: ... Or you could just run it through a seperate switch and turn it on and off as required. Mo ..Much simpler to just connect it to the correct two wires. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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