Ex Member Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 Here is my install. http://www.red90.ca/rovers/Heater/ There is a bit more done to it past what is there. It is way bigger than ever needed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 He's the MAN !!!!!! Yes - I used his idea & can't thank him enough !!! What I did though was using the pedal box to fit the heater into. Means serious cutting of bulkhead but it also makes a lot of room free in the engine bay... The blowers move a lot of air - in fact, they caused a "whistle" in the beginning because of some weird turbulence.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 Red90, Did you modify the water supply and return side? With the stock hoses I'm surprised that you had sufficient flow to achieve this improvement. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 My bilge blower is in, relatively easy - hardest bit was getting the new foam seal properly aligned - which required the window washer reservoir shifting, which needed the air cleaner assembly removed, which needed the oil breather disconnected, the intercooler pipes disconnected, the pipes to the air cleaner assembly disconnected, and the Eberspacher support shifting. Then getting the bolts back into the window washer reservoir was a pain. Wired up through a relay, switch on the dash and it blows fine - a considerable amount more than normal. I just need to take it for a run to see what the 'real world' hot engine effect is , maybe later today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 Finished sorting my blower too, had to replace the slider switch & cable, now all sorted, with the switch in the very top 'off' postion & ignition on but engine not started,the bilge blower still runs ? any idea's thinking I'll add a extra on/off switch to ensure it's fully off, otherwise very pleased with the increased 'hot' air flow through the heater duct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevm Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 I think someone else mentioned previously that the power is live to the heater and the earth is switched, so to get it to run in parallel with the original fan you would need to take a tee off the power to the fan and also then tee the blower earth into the earth/return. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 Cheers Kevm I'll try that tomorrow, if it isn't raining Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 Arjan did you use the same unit as Red90 if so were did you get it from ? cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jocklandjohn Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 33 minutes ago, ianmayco68 said: Arjan did you use the same unit as Red90 if so were did you get it from ? cheers Ian I think I recall him saying it was from here: http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/52kw-car-heater-kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 Cheers Jocklandjohn just had a look and it looks like the same one. Looks like I might have a bit of fabricating to do. cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted November 5, 2016 Share Posted November 5, 2016 (edited) 1 hour ago, ianmayco68 said: Arjan did you use the same unit as Red90 if so were did you get it from ? cheers Ian I'm pretty sure Arjan used the same one that I did and had someone send it over from Canada. It is a Canadian company. Mine is a 10 kW unit. Model 212, http://www.mcc-hvac.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/Heaters.pdf The 5.2 kW one from Carbuilder is probably big enough for a 90. Edited November 5, 2016 by Red90 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Quick test run on the bench, I need to collect all the bits that blew round the workshop. I measured the surge current and its not a concern to me, I reckon the existing wiring and switch will be ok in my truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 been altering the wiring for the new bilge blower, it's currently wired like this ---- plain black of bilge blower to the plain black on the dash fan slider switch yellow on bilge blower to the original blower motors purple/green wire. only one thing that is not happening with the slide switch at very top position O = off, the original blower is not running BUT bilge blower still operates when ignition is switched on. Any idea's oh mighty electrical wizards ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevm Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 So have you got a purple/green going to the motor (+12v supply) and green/yellow and green/slate going back to the dash switch hi/lo speed? Check the power at the purple/green then check that the green/yellow and green/slate can be selected and switched off by the dash switch - they should connect to earth when selected by the switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 here's my wiring as it is now. the bilge blower runs on the slow & fast settings same as the original, but it just won't switch fully off when ign is on [engine running or not] I've previously had the bilge blower wired into the green/slate wire but got the same results. 2nd photo is the original resistor unit, showing the wire colour & the 2 & 3 pin plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevm Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Just been out and had an investigation of mine so i know how it works - see on your drawing where it says two pin connector that pair of wires goes down underneath to the actual fan motor you need to have your supply AND earth off that pair. It will work then. Kev Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Ah, ok, so put the new blower's yellow to the existing purple/green [12v from fusebox] & the black to the green/slate of the original wiring ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevm Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Yeah, if it is easier to get at to make a connection/tee, then it should work if you connect your bilge blower supply and return at any point on the purple/green and green/slate wires. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 I'll try that, I've got some bullet & spade terminals. Thanks Kev. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevm Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 I ilke your drawing, you should do another one of how it should be when you have it working for others reference. Personally I don't like that switched earth system with the live always at the motor. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Just had to go & do the wiring adjustment. working like this now slide switch at O position both blower motors OFF switch at slow position both blowers running slowly but giving a good flow switch fully down at fast position both blowers giving all the air flow they can, new amended wiring diagram below [don't follow the earlier diagram] 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 On slow you will have an extra 1/2 to 1 A through the resistor and it may well fail in the future, but if it does it will still run on fast and a bigger resistor will solve that as and when you need to do it. Otherwise.. yep .. that will be OK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 my factory fitted resistor is not in the circuit anymore, I fitted one of simonb's resistor kits a while ago, so I get better flow on slow & the normal fast is not affected. so I'm pretty sure it won't be a problem. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arjan Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Bon Soir ! Yes - the heater came from Canada. I was fortunate enough to have a very, very kind forum member at LRA (Remember that..) who hand carried it to the UK and eventually it came to France. You can order one on line but the shipping is quite a bit of money. To me, there is no such thing as a "to big" heater as we do Winter Raids to the Nord Kapp and in Lapland we have minus 44 C from time to time and the Mazda's & Tdi's so far have been fine. Having the Webasto engine heater makes we can both pre-heat the engine and the interior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianmayco68 Posted November 6, 2016 Share Posted November 6, 2016 Cheers Red90 and Arjan have sent Princessauto a message so will see what they say, unfortunately I don't know anyone in Canada just my luck> cheers Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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