Tubes in beadlock wheels

[marsie]

I am in the process of fitting Mach 5 beadlocks/simex 36x12.5r15ets to my 90.I am getting conflicting advice on tubes(some say fit some say dont).Upto now i am in favour of tubeless due to bad experiences with tubes in the past.Would just like to know before fitting my tyres and torquing up 120 bolts to find the b***ard tyres gone flat

Paul

[MogLite]

How could a tube fit in those wheels anyway ?

Don't they have a big ring inside to lock the tubes - you'd never get valvestem through that

[maverick]

if its a single external beadlock wots stopping you knock the bead off the inside of the tyre I know its got a deeper part of the dish to go before breaking but at alow psi but if you fit tubes you have a bloody hassle if you have a puncture, at leaste with out you can blow it back on the reverse side

if you use tube get a good thick heavey duty 1

very bling B)

[marsie]

They are single external beadlocks with the outside edge being clamped.Know what you are saying about the tyre posibly coming off the inside edge,but i dont think its likely cos you are more likely to hit the outside of the tyre than the inside anyway.Thought the same as you Ivan with tubes,and in my past experience i have had nowt but aggro with tubed tyres.As you say it should be easy enuf to remount the tyre if it does shove off.

Definately edging towards tube less

And as for "very Bling"lets face it mate,my motor definately needs all the help it can get in the shiny shiny department

Paul

[MogLite]

I run agricultural spec tubes in my beadlocks - never had a problem

[bill van snorkle]

Every time I have tried tubeless offroad tyres I was always bugged with slow leaks due to clumps of mud, stones,tree bark etc getting between the bead and rim at low tyre pressures. I always use tubes now on Silverstones, Superswampers and Simex, but a couple of tube failures with sudden deflation at 30/40mph got really frightening, so now I glue the tube valve stems to the rim with silastic so that if the tyre is punctured it will deflate more slowly like a normal tubeless tyre.

[dollythelw]

I run internal beadlocks, you can run them with or without tubes although fitting tubes would be a major league nightmare

Single beadies can be run either way - but when they pop off the inside bead they tend to muller the tyre so I would favour them with a tube just to give them an extra lifeline - silicone is a good move as is a ring to proect the valve stem, good amount of talc when you fit the tube inside the tyre can help at low psi as it reduces the chaffing (sounds strange but its a trick from days of stupid stuff on two wheels )

[D9OSV]

Paul,

You shouldn't have to use tubes with these...but

They have had a problem with them leaking around the welds, which is why we tube them...

Quick tip....

When you fit the tubes, push the valve into position and then place a cable tie as low down the neck as possible to retain the valve, or otherwise at low pressures they have a habit of disappearing inside the wheel

All the best mate

Jim

[dollythelw]

When you fit the tubes, push the valve into position and then place a cable tie as low down the neck as possible to retain the valve, or otherwise at low pressures they have a habit of disappearing inside the wheel

Thats a good shout - we used to run the bikes with the valve retaining collar screwed halfway so if the tube started to creep you could see it before the tube moved enough to rip the valve out- I guess a cable tie would do the same, nice B)

[marsie]

Thanks for the info guys.As for the wheels leaking round the welds,i have sealed all the internal welds with sikaflex seam sealer(recommended by Matt Lee).Am planning on running a thin bead of silicone sealer round the tyre bead when i fit them as well,just as a precaution(best not use seam sealer though cos tyre will never come off again )

Jim,How ya doin pal?good tip for the tube valves,may give that a go

Paul B)