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Doors that will not shut!


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Hi, I own a 2003 110 TD5 and have real trouble getting the doors to shut first thing in the morning. I have removed the locks and seals and oiled and greased everything that moves but it still happens. BAsically the door will close and half latch i.e. it will stay closed but not tightly so as I drive along wind whistles in and the door rattles. It happens the most with the drivers door and the off side second row door. The weird thing is that after about 20mins of driving if I open and close the door it seems to work fine. I am not too sure if I need to get new door locks, adjust the door hinges or replace the door seals (which are fine on the surface of it). My worst fear is that there has been some bodywork movement. Can anyone out there suggest solution? Thanks.

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If this is just happening in the cold weather it would suggest stiffening of the door-seals preventing total closure of the doors. There are various things you can coat the seals with that will keep them supple but you might find adjusting the strikers on the door pillars themselves might help too but make sure you mark their original position by drawing around them with a pencil to provide a reference from which to work from.

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It's not the seatbelt getting caught and sitting on the door latch mounted on the pillar is it? i've had a couple of defenders which were sods for it, the door will close but not fully, i sometimes end up opening and closing the door when i've put my belt on as it stretches out when clipped in so it can't catch.

have a look at you seatbelt and check if it looks like it been worn or trapped near the latch.

:)

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Hi, I own a 2003 110 TD5 and have real trouble getting the doors to shut first thing in the morning. I have removed the locks and seals and oiled and greased everything that moves but it still happens. BAsically the door will close and half latch i.e. it will stay closed but not tightly so as I drive along wind whistles in and the door rattles. It happens the most with the drivers door and the off side second row door. The weird thing is that after about 20mins of driving if I open and close the door it seems to work fine. I am not too sure if I need to get new door locks, adjust the door hinges or replace the door seals (which are fine on the surface of it). My worst fear is that there has been some bodywork movement. Can anyone out there suggest solution? Thanks.

Hi Zero,

Dont worry, this happens to my RRC every winter. No bodywork movement :lol: Maybe I´ve been too liberal with the grease in the doorlocks, or it could just be freezing water inside the lock. I have observed the same as you, all works fine after 15 mins of driving (warm car). I use liberal amounts of silicone-oil, doorlock oil etc. and it feels right applying it ("responsible driver, clap your shoulder"...), but I´m not shure it has any effect...

Regards

Bo

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If this is just happening in the cold weather it would suggest stiffening of the door-seals preventing total closure of the doors. There are various things you can coat the seals with that will keep them supple but you might find adjusting the strikers on the door pillars themselves might help too but make sure you mark their original position by drawing around them with a pencil to provide a reference from which to work from.

I think you might be right about the door seals as the problem has only really started when the winter set in. That said it does not happen with the nearside door - my better half laughs at me getting in that side and struggling over the cubby box so I don't have to door rattling all the way to work!! Mind you the near side door has probably had less use over time. Thank you all for the advice to a newbie.

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Hi, I use 3-in-1 white lithium grease for the locks and halfords silicone lubricant for the rubber door seals. The temperature here has been down to -20 and have had no problems so far. WD40 is good for the locks as well. regards, rocky

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I had similar problems and found that removing the sill seals worked. Waterrunning down theinsideof the doors (and out thro the rust drainage holes was freezing to the sills.

Mind you nearside front door is now frozen solid and defies any attempt to open it, drivers door is fine, why? anyones bloody guess!!!!!

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I had similar problems and found that removing the sill seals worked. Waterrunning down theinsideof the doors (and out thro the rust drainage holes was freezing to the sills.

Mind you nearside front door is now frozen solid and defies any attempt to open it, drivers door is fine, why? anyones bloody guess!!!!!

to keep the wife out? mine does the same and the girlfriend cant get in. :rolleyes::unsure:

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Can you recommend any?

I have a door that's got harder to shut - though the temperature doesn't seem to make much difference.

As has already been mentioned silicone grease or spray will do. Some people use a thin smear of Vaseline but as it is petroleum based it can have an adverse effect on some rubbers so try a test bit first. You could try WD40 or Duck Oil but again try on a test patch first.

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As has already been mentioned silicone grease or spray will do. Some people use a thin smear of Vaseline but as it is petroleum based it can have an adverse effect on some rubbers so try a test bit first. You could try WD40 or Duck Oil but again try on a test patch first.

Hi,

but I´m not sure it will do any good to the OP "doors will not shut-problem". We have quite hard frost here in Denmark every year, and the problem has occured like every year to my cars (my current RRC 1990, and the RRC 1976 before that). What happens is, that temperature changes around the freezingpoint creates condensation of water inside the doors locking mechanism, and this water freezes (say the cold night after).

So the problem isnt related to the seals at all (well, not on my cars, anyway...). I have soaked the seals in silicone (believe me, they were glossy like bodybuilder muscles...) - no effect. Had to crawl in from the back of the car - I tell you, the nabours have many funny comments about the quality of british cars... :blink: ).

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