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help, pictures, instructions, as much help as pos on fitting


Orange90-J-
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Hello im changing from my 10 spline LR axles (rear ARB locker and standerd front)to series 80 land cruiser axles (after i have sold my locker, compressor air valve and my mach 5s that is).

Any help, pictures, instructions links, contacts, websites etc.. anything that will help me will be much appriciated.

I need to know everything realy i know what i need to carry out the convertion but need the ins and outs the complications etc...

Thanks jamie

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Stupid question but if you don't know anything about how to do the conversion, are you actually competent to do it? You need to be pretty well set up for welding & fabrication to do it properly (I.E. not a hobby MIG, a bottle of pub gas and some tin snips) or you'll just make the thing into an undrivable death-trap.

There's assorted tech on Pirate 4x4 about welding, fabrication, axle swaps, etc. as a starting point.

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yess i fully understand what you mean and am more than capable to do the job to a very high standerd not just a wana be :)

built full trucks to challenge spec, including lengthened chassiss, roll cages, wing bars, winch bumpers, winch X members, ground anchors, diff gaurds, strengthened axle casings etc... the list goes on. thanks J

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yess i fully understand what you mean and am more than capable to do the job to a very high standerd not just a wana be :)

built full trucks to challenge spec, including lengthened chassiss, roll cages, wing bars, winch bumpers, winch X members, ground anchors, diff gaurds, strengthened axle casings etc... the list goes on. thanks J

With that wealth of experiance :ph34r: Why bother asking?

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With that wealth of experiance :ph34r: Why bother asking?

Because im capable of doin the work just want the pointers into actualy carrying it out, the ins and the outs and as everyone knows theres always some complications! I only ask as this is the place to ask of fellow members that have carried it out or know everything to do with it! Not wanting an argument or anything!

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I think it was the lack of any sort of specific questions that did it - EG suspension/steering geometry, bracket design & positioning, propshafts, brake setup, etc. just sounded like you didn't even own a tape measure if you know what I mean :rolleyes:

A few guys on here have some form on the Toyota axle front, if you use the search button you should turn up some builds/conversions around the place. I think Nick's RogueVogue runs Toyotas, and Moose / Plasticbadger put a set under a Disco once upon a time. I'm sure there are more, but those are the ones I can remember :unsure:

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ive now got plasticbadgers axles under my truck,

no diss-respect but, i ended up chopping every bracket off and starting from scratch as i wasnt happy with any of it but thats a different story and i wont go into detail as to upset anyone.

anyhows, its dead easy and simple to do really, im running std land rover arms under mine aswel for ease of spairs.

propshaft wise, dont arse around grafting two propshafts together becasue if ( and they do fail ) you propshaft ends up in two halfs like mine have done :lol: , your goosed for a quick fix.

i removed the flanges, turned the center out of them on a lathe to match the landy prop flange then re drilled the holes to suit the landy pattern.

locker wise, i made my own loom from scratch, theres pleanty of info on the net for diagrams to the e-lockers

otherwise good axles, running 37" boggers with a td5 90 and ive only broken a diff all year ( front ) which was avoidable so i accept it was my fault :)

did let go in a spectacular way though :P:lol:

dan

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lol - thats cruel but true!

pirate is a great source of some lovely builds - but unless you build it in the 'american style' you will get flamed and accused of killing puppies.

Nick

ps. the american style is to forget driving skill or reading the terrain and to build something you can head-butt against an obstacle at full throttle with 500bhp V8 and 50" boggers. Oh, and its doesnt matter if you tig/mig/arc weld - if it doesnt look like that pretty overlapping spot welded tig method, it will fail immediately and cause you to crash into a bus full of nuns and orphans in a ball of flame...

style and BHP over substance imho.

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Pirate is almost nerdy the way they ask for weld pictures and try to be badsass and their favoured mig method looks a bit weak with the low deposit style low amps etc instead of concentrating on the weld pool.

I do like the way they like to work out suspension etc instead of buying junk off the counter.

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On the whole, eBay is the best place to look for axles. For info on what to look for, there is an excellent post here - you may need to register to see it though. It has a history of Toyota vehicles with info about what axles they have.

My 80 series axles came from eBay - but took 6 months to find!

The simplest way to fit them is just to cut off all the bracketry from your old LR axles and weld it too the toyota cases in the same places. However, if you are going to the trouble of doing that, it's no more work to do something more adventurous such as 1, 3 or 4 link - so you might as well.

This thread has some useful ideas and info on the possibilities.

Si

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yes thats the one :)

the yank axles ARE different to UK ones

they don't get the fully floating rear with a 9.25" rear diff- there's was only 8.5" iirc. Also as most of them are manual they mostly get 3.8 R&Ps not the 4.11s you will often find in the UK.

as to them being weak. Umm can't think of anything outside of a 101 salisbury setup to get close and even then i'd be surprised. CVs are significantly larger and stronger- diffs are hypoid front and back- although the front is weaker than the rear (especially if you run it with no oil for a few thousand miles).

The actuators can be a little sensitive- the magnets inside can start to fall off.

One reported case that i've come across of a weld failure on one bracket at the front. BUt nothing more.

You can fit the internals to LR cases if you're clever without too much work. Front and rear standard setup is a 4 point rear with a panhard rod, and the front is pretty much the same as LRs- although the links are positions significantly higher than on an LR.

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The axles themselves were not being critisied, It was the brackets someone had made for 3 point linkages that were dangerous and looked like you could pull them off with a pair of molegrips :rolleyes:

Ive broken lc80 pinion and ring gears but never hurt the cvs for some reason. Toyota diff units in rover casings is more common conversion than you would think, but im inclined to disagree with you saying that lc axles compare to 101 salisburys

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the main weakness is the front R&P- the rear is nigh on indestructible- if you look at the similarity in sizes between salisbury diffs, the R&Ps (of the rear of the yota axle) is slightly thicker, and the 4 pin diff is slightlier chunkier. Very very rare to break front CVs unless caused by wear. The relative weakness (and this is relative) is the fornt ring and pinion- its a bit smaller and thinner. you aren't going to blow the diff (at least i've never seen one that didn't fail due to an external issue- ie running it free of oil etc)- but what you may do is strip the teeth on the ring gear- the pinion is solid. The fault lies with wear in the diff. The pinion is fixed in place with bearings and a crush tube- over time the tube collapases every so slightly- this gives play in the pinion, which is forced away from the ring slightly- the pinion is then acting on the outer edged of the ring gear. If you have the time and money then rebuilding the diff with non-collapsing torque tubes (it takes more setting up though) takes all the play up and is the toyota equivalent of diff pegging. having said all that, the weakness we are talking about only really shows up with fairly extreme abuse- larger MTs, competition (or equivalent) etc etc, and only in rare cases.FWIW the axles under an 80 series are toyotas Heavy Duty axles- their design brief was to work in commercial and harsh enviroments under heavy weigh vehicles- they are frequently used under 7.5tonne+ vehicles. The equivalent of a rover axle (ie from a design perspective) is the "light duty" axle found under the prado and a lot of KZJ70s etc

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to clarify a bit, i think the main issue with the front diff on the 80 is that its smaller and also that its reverse cut to give high pinion and avoid deflection of the crown wheel when driving forwards. the downside of that is it is more likely to spit the crown wheel in reverse and strip teeth.

for putting toyota diffs in a landrover casing, an 80 series front is required and a 4runner v6 rear is required to get the electric locker. i'm not sure what the uk equivalent of the v6 4runner diff used in the US is though. these are 8" diffs. the larger 9.25" diffs as found in the rear of an 80 series won't fit.

if you want a pair of the larger diffs, your best bet is to seek out a 60 series landcruiser. the track is slightly narrower than a land rover, but spacers would fix this. factory lockers on a 60 series axle are cable operated, but they're quite rare. i think, you would also find these axles on a 70 series, but i'm not really sure which ones, probably not vehicles in the prado guise.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_TechInfo.shtml this site provides a bit more info

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