Where do D2's rust? Best places to waxoyl?

[turbodave]

Well, simple enough - I figure some early '99's must be starting to get flaky right now - where are the 'problem areas'? I was told that the roof either side of the rear door is the main place, but can't understand how this can be???

I've got a 2003 that I want to keep for many more years, and the Waxoyl jumbo kit. Please point me in the right direction!

[M&S]

I'd treat the complete chassis inside and out.

Remove front and rear bumpers as I have found the chassis and body mounts behind the front grille really traps moisture and dirt. You'll need to pull out the horns and the foam to see where I mean.

Usual spots on the chassis, as I say, treat it all.

Body wise I can't say I've noticed any areas of concern myself. What I hear is the body was well treated at the expense of the chassis, the opposite of series 1 discos

Be prepared to remove quite a few bits before you start, as I say, bumpers, grille, ideally wheels, etc. This will allow for much easier access.

Anywhere you find full of muck/holding teh dirt would be a key area to treat.

Best of luck

[turbodave]

I actually have the horns, radiator and engine out right now, it's getting a new top-hat block from V8Developments. Thanks for the pointers on the chassis - so it's not my imagination that these seem less robust than the D1 chassis then!

[garyjrode]

Hi there, as you said, I have paint flaking on the body around the top of rear door and light bubbling at the corners above the front windscreen. My D2 is a 2000 yr.

no were else yet.

[BogMonster]

From what I have seen, chassis as said, and the place that visible rot first appears on then outside is around the rear of the rear wheelarches, it rots through from the inside around the curve of the wheelarch on models with the "mini" arches.

[Ally V8]

I'd do a bit of research before trusting too much in Waxoil. I did the back end of my Disco back in the summer when I replaced the boot floor.The car was thoroughly cleaned,dried and painted before the waxoil was applied.It was allowed to harden off for a couple of days before it was driven.

I had it on the ramp on Friday,to my horror large areas of the waxoil have just disappeared.Not impressed.

[nicks90]

as an owner of a D2 2000 model i can give you a report on the rot areas i have found. This is a td5 that has been waxoiled 3 times since new, but not in the past 2 years.

starting at the top...

top right of rear door is bubbling badly - exactly same as a D1

2 small patches above the windscreen need attention - exactly same as a D1

both front door windscreen rubbers have ballooned on the outside towards the back of the doors - exactly same as a D1

Both rear windows are now inoperative due to the channel the glass fits in rusting to nothing and falling off the bottom of the glass - exactly same as a D1

rear wheel arch mud flaps, the metal plate going from the wheelarch upwards is getting scabby

rear body mounts are flaky as hell

underneath the rear chassis legs from rear body mounts to bumpstops are flaky as hell, thats 2 foot each side!

holes underneath the bumpstops - they're currently being held on by wishfull thinking and rust

inside of left hand chassis leg where the fuel tank squashes up against - completely chocker block with big rust flakes. Cant even get a screwdriver between the tank and chassis. Where the side of the chassis is visible, 6" long rust hole and i would imagine that whole area will need replacing when i drop the tank.

Side of chassis leg nest to both rear shock top mounts is flaky

front left radius arm mount is flaky

both front bulkhead outriggers are very flaky from underneath around the big nut

front left chassis leg next to windscreen washer bottle is flaky.

how much rust exists under the 'flakes' and how much damage to the chassis there is - i have yet to fully prod and poke, all i did was give it a quick wire brush and red oxide it in preperation for a thorough investigation and repair in early spring. I know of 3 major areas that will need welding - rear bumps and next to fuel tank - but how much more needs plating i will ony know when i strip it properly and attack it with a nail gun whatsit thingy.

I havent taken the plastic cill guards off yet or investigated the inner wings in great details - but i would imagine there will be work to do on those as well. Once its all tidied up and welded, it will be getting a thorough steam clean to remove all the old waxoil and then getting schultz applied liberally.

Nick

ps. one thing to note - alot of the flakey areas where hidden under old dried out waxoyl. I found the flakes after picking the loose waxoyl off. So i dont know if this rust is BECAUSE of poorly applied waxoil or as a RESULT of the wax going hard and being 'holed' by grit etc and allowing water to get in and capturing it and preventing it drying out - creating a moisture trap that allowed the rust to creep under big areas of hardened wax.

What i would say is this - if you have waxoyled your vehicle, dont just top it up. Get underneath with a scraper and get rid of any old and hardened waxoyl before reapplying it. You may discover some real horrors lurking underneath the wax. I will be schultzing mine and then every year giving it a steam clean to remove any loose or dry wax before reapplying.

[plasticbadger]

Crikey Nick, I thought mine was bad!

So, my experience with an early 1999 D2, 160,000 miles, used off road occaissional, never waxoiled or any other treatment. Rust as follows:

Body generally very good, esp. underneath, apart from:

Along top edge of front windscreen under seal

Small bubble on rear door lower edge

Small bubble below RH tail light

Chassis, not so clever, echoing the thought that this is the D2s weak point, main problem on mine is along side the fuel tank at the lowest point, which will need welding this year. Elsewhere the chassis in nice and solid due to oil leaks!

So, compared to Nick's I'd say, be careful as mine seems to be better with little or no after market rust prevention than those that have been treated regularily. Waxoil can trap in moisture and rust problems, so prepare the vehicle carefully.

[turbodave]

Wow, Perhaps waxoyl changed? I thought it was the best stuff out there. What else is there that compares? Schultz obviously - I recall something called dinstrol? But I clearly have the name wrong...