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Worse MOT ever (are you sitting comfortably)


Davecrx

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I've always been told there's a big difference for an engine between revving under load or not, what those differences are I don't quite know though.

Back in my dyno tuning days my boss did explain to me about an engine reving freely (not under load) is bad for it. something to do with the way things spin and that the pistons/rods dont have anything to push against. I might of got the wrong end when he told me.

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Maybe when you put it in again, leave MegaLog running - then at least you'll have an accurate, and probably evidential record of what was done to the engine.

After a couple of similar experiences, I now take my 110 to a Land Rover Specialist, John Lane in Sussex and get him to put it through the MOT, and do any work necessary to pass - which in practice so far has been nothing much. It's been a whole lot less stressful and I know that if it fails, it will be for something decent!

If anyone wants Johns number - PM me!

Si

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Then the diesel smoke test hasn't been carried out correctly!

eh? our landrover tester does an emissions test of my tdi on idle, if it passes that then he doesnt need to do a rev test thingy-me-bob.

However last year after i tweaked it, it failed on idle and he had to do the rev test (and it passed).

personally it doesnt bother me if they do rev the nuts off it, cam belt is good, cooling system is good and i rev the nuts off it regularly enough anyway!

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As for trying to heat the Catalyst (if that is what he was trying to do) when he was checking the exhaust system he should of notice there wasn't a cat in the system but i also hadn't stated that the engine was from a 1988 RRC.

But thinking shouldn't the car failed due to the fact it didn't have a cat fitted??

Having looked over the gas analysis report this is what it read:

Fast idle test FAIL

Engine Speed = --- rpm NOT CHECKED

CO level = 0.97% FAIL

HC level = 84 ppm PASS

Lambda = 1.03 PASS

Second fast idle test NOT DONE

Natural idle test NOT DONE

OVERALL RESULT ABORTED

On that engine 0.97% is a good PASS. The limits are 3.5%CO and 1200ppm HC.

TBH at 0.97% CO I would say that your engine is running lean at idle.

Getting the engine above normal operating teperature does nothing to the CO & HC levels.

The tester should have noticed it was non cat and followed the attached procedure. He also should have asked for the approximate engine age to detrermine if it required a CAT by law.

I think a call to VOSA is required.

non_cat.pdf

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You guys need to come to Brunei. I had an MOT equivalent conducted on Saturday for my new to me 16 year old Disco 200 TDI. It cost £2.50 (5$) and they checked the lights and brakes (on a roller) then told me off for a cracked front number plate but still passed the test. Oh and it cost me £7.50 ($15) to fill up. Happy days.

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Place I get mine tested at managed to think the engine was still had no temperature in it after 20 minutes of running because the temp gauge was sat on the bottom. The gauge they were looking at was the old series one but is no longer connected up since engine change. The other gauge I have was at 110 by the time I went and checked why they hadn't put the fan on (manual switch)

Luckily there was no damage done but next MOT I will be keeping a close eye on the vehicle when they test it even though the fans an auto switch because I don't trust them to not make another mistake.

I must remember to tell them it's now permanent 4wd as they'd be putting it on the rollers for brake test otherwise. At least they don't test the handbrake on there!

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What's wrong with using brake rollers? Or using it while moving?

Adam

Single axle brake rollers should not be used on a 4WD vehicle that has no centre diff, such as a RRC with a viscous coupling. The test centre I used to go to for a number of years told me this, and that many Jap 4x4s fall into this bracket.

These days I get MOTs at my local LR dealer, just because they're conveniently 5 mins walk from work, and I get a good price. I drop it off on the way to work, and pick it up at end of day. They even wash the car too. I was gobsmacked the first time I went to collect my battered 90 and found its Mud Terrains had been polished to a high gloss :lol:

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The gauge they were looking at was the old series one but is no longer connected up since engine change.

So that's the MOT testers fault because...:blink:

Surely a post-it note or discussion with the tester before hand to mention such things as a different engine, not working gauge, or whatever would save any hassles?

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something to do with the way things spin and that the pistons/rods dont have anything to push against.

Cylinder Bore Glazing is the problem with running diesels under no load; google is you friend here. Happens quite often on boat engines when yachtie types run the engine in tick-over to charge their batteries.

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sould to me as if a phone call to VOSA about the test senter would not be a bad thing.

first time i took mine to my MOTer he told me it failed on hambrake not being ballanced after telling him it was a center brake he sead sorry, had have used them for some years now and thay do class 7 witch is good as i haven't change the 90, theres not much change.

i did take it one year with the insa turbo ST on he did say the brake tester was hard to read but it past.

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credit where due... I had a MOT done at my local Nationwide (Kidderminster) and it failed on a few bits.

When I took it back for re-test, they appologised profusely and said that the tester, who was new, had missed some fail points - rear radius arm to axle bushes, headlight allignment and also the fix I did to a rear lamp not working wasn't working on the re-test (there was a bad earth). The tester had since been sacked.

The manager voluntarily refunded not only my originl test fee, but also said they would press in new radius arm bushes, allign the headlamps and fix the earth problem free of charge - that afternoon! And sure enough they did. Above and beyond I thought.

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eh? our landrover tester does an emissions test of my tdi on idle, if it passes that then he doesnt need to do a rev test thingy-me-bob.

However last year after i tweaked it, it failed on idle and he had to do the rev test (and it passed).

personally it doesnt bother me if they do rev the nuts off it, cam belt is good, cooling system is good and i rev the nuts off it regularly enough anyway!

Then your not getting a proper test done. What else are they testing incorrectly or not testing at all????

The test

After checking the oil temperature to ensure the engine is warm the tester will accelerate the engine from idle until the governor cuts in a maximum of 6 times. Your engine will not be held at full speed for any length of time. If your engine has been maintained, the test should not cause damage to your engine.

The above is taken from page 2 of this document on vosa's website

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I think it's worth trying to find a rural MOT centre that deal with Land Rovers on a regular basis, perhaps one nearby a Land Rover dealer/workshop. I'm lucky to have nearby a Land Rover dealer who sells vehicles to a lot of the local farms and his brother who has a workshop and both use the same local MOT centre. I know therefore that the MOT centre see plenty of Land Rovers and would be more familiar with the vehicles. Also, it was recommended to me by other owners, which helps too.

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Sadly I reversed into a mercedes that belongs to my MOT guy's wife....... I don't think I'll get an objective test next year.

In fact they reacted so badly I really need to find a new test centre. :-(

did you not point out all vehicles on premises are left at owners risk?they sure as hell would try that one with a customer.

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