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LR TD4 Lack of Power and Fault code P1260

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Hi All,

This is my first post and I would be most gratful for some advice before approaching the LR dealers. I have a TD4 MK 1 LR Freelander 04 plate; Since the 'Cold Snap' began a few weeks ago I have been having problems with a lack of power. It first showed itself one morning when I was unable to get above 20 MPH and the Engine Management Light (EML) came on. I drove her back home and tried later. However, although I managed to get to move a little faster she was very sluggish and when I tried to 'rev her up' the revs would not go beyond 3750 and the EML light would reappear. I dosed the fuel with REDX and gave her a good 100 mile spin but to no avail; she struggled to get above 85 MPH and that took ages and 'died a death' up a slight incline. I have had her put through a diagnostic machine and a constant code of P1260 fuel pressure sensors shows. I managed to locate both sensors and thought of using the process of ilimination; as the Low pressure sensor is the easiest to disconnect I tried that first. To my surprise the revs shot around the clock. Believing this to be the problem I continued to run without he sensor connected for a few days and today 13th Dec 2010 have had the sensor replaced. However, the problem is still there. I recently cleaned the EGR and looked at the MAF, which seemed clean. I have recently had a service and the fuel, air and cranckcase breather filters have been exchanged so what can it be?

Any clues anybody?

Mike

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Thanks for the advice. Which fuel pump would you suggest that is defective as I understand therrea re two, one in the fuel tank and the other with the fuel filter behind the front wheel arch, I think. Is there any way of isolating the problem and getting an accurate diagnosis.

Cheers

Mike

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No, early ones had two low side pumps - yours as an 04 will have a single one.Its behind a plastic panel hiding behind the rhr wheel.Best to fit a new filter at the same time,its right next to the pump.

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Well, against my better judgement I changed the pump and the filter yesterday, amongst the snow. What a job. Looks and reads easy in the books but once you get into it, ‘Holy Moses’. Maybe it was just my motor but it wasn’t as straight forward as the books suggest. One of the two bolts holding the plastic pump and filter assembly was a nightmare to undo; and why is it that motoring manufacturers feel it necessary to cramp as much as possible into a small space? My next problem was to get the old filter out!!!! A few invective words at the side of our road during this operation; It was struck solid. In the end I had to drift it and use a pair of stilson’s to help it out. Surely that can’t be right. The pump came out no problem but the replacement (not a genuine part) pump was not exactly the same, minutely smaller but fitted ok. That’s when the second scene of misfortune came about. The replacement filter (Unipart) was fractionally too big and proved to be right g*t to get into the plastic housing; so much so as it eventually made its way into cradle the plastic cracked on me and also snapped the earthing connector off. After much pi**ing about I managed to assemble it and get it ready for a test run.

I’m not entirely sure if I have sorted the problem out really. Yes, it does respond better, yes I can rev it up into the red zone without the Management Light coming on but on the Motorway this morning I could just about make 90 -95 mph. Its OK virtually no traffic about and road was clear of snow and ice.

I intend to replace the plastic housing in due course and get another filter too; might also, funds permitting, get a genuine pump next time. Does anybody know where you could pick up one of these housing? Also what is the maximum speed of these cars?

Cheers to those who wrote in with advice.

Mike

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That's absolutely 'spot on' cheers for that I have ordered one and will let you know if it is correct. Again, many thanks.

Regards

mike

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I'm a bit clueless about the diseasals in general, but could it be worth unplugging the airflow meter to see if that makes a difference? My mechanic told me they can fail, unplugging it puts it into default mode, it'll use more fuel and be down on power but will drive. If unplugging it makes no difference then it may be a clue that it's knackered.

I only know this because mine arrived with it unplugged, so I'll be waiting to see how it goes with it plugged back in.

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check the fuel preasure sensor on the end of the fuel rail land rover do a replacement wiring loom to the sensor as the contacts become loose and cerode and that gives you lack of power and throughs the mill lamp on

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Hello all,

Many thanks to those with tips and advice, especially FOZSUG for his suggestion and direction of the fuel pump/filter housing. It arrived before christmas and is assenbled awaiting to be fitted. Strange how Britpart managed to supply one to me witin 3-days whilst LR claim there's no in the country and had to scour Europe to try to find one. Now that I have the new housing I am strongly thinking of fitting a genuine pump and filter when I fit it to the car as although the initial problems have abated, Engine Management Light on at 2750 revs and the despirate lack of acceleration, it still seems to lack the zip it had a few months back when I changed the crankcase filter and added the REDEX to clean the fuel system. I have also read a thread on the Turbo Boost solenoid as a possible cause of poor acceleration and I may try the Fuel High Pressure sensor wiring too. The new wiring or Jump Lead as LR refer to it cost just short of £35 with the VAT. There does seem to be some wheezing and whistling as you press the accelerator so maybe turbo vacuum hoses could also be worth looking at.

Any other suggestions from anybody?

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The two most common cause of this fault code is the fuel pump and as Sam mentioned the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel rail. It is very easy to check, pull the connector off the sensor on the end of the high pressure fuel rail and if the pins look green and/or rusty this gives the ecu an incorrect reading. The wiring kit is a new connector and loom all the way to the ecu, its wise to replace the sensor but a good clean out with some kind of electrical contact cleaner should be ok in most instances.

Airflow meters used to be quite a popular concern but they don't cause any problems nowadays, think there was a software update to change the tolerances for bringing the air flow meter fault code up.

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hi all

I'm having same problem myself

getting the EML above 2000 revs and lack of power and same code

changed the fuel filter, now going to change the common rail fuel sensor

I have many different brands of 4x4 in my time and to be honest the td4 has been the most troublesome by far

any ways , back to this problem

i have 2 choices left , changing the common rail fuel sensor tomorrow and if that fails , the fuel pump

i have a boost pressure solenoid on way so ill change that anyways even doe i changed it 3 years ago but will again

will post how i get on

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ok , changed the common rail fuel sensor and stlll get the engine management light , so now changing for bosh fuel pump at almost 170 euros

i know later if it fixes it

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back again

just changed the bosh fuel pump under wheel arch and problem solved

so my advise anyone who get code P1260 , its fuel pump

but i have changed the common rail fuel sensor too as this some times gives same code error

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back again

just changed the bosh fuel pump under wheel arch and problem solved

so my advise anyone who get code P1260 , its fuel pump

but i have changed the common rail fuel sensor too as this some times gives same code error

I may have mentioned this 5 years ago.... Rail sensor issues give different codes.

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We've had the same problem and we did all the possible changes we found online - Fuel pumps - changing the air filters etc. It turned out that I had a faulty turbo boost value. Very easy fix and sorted the problem. :)

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I have got the same problem with my 2005 td4 ,replaced boost valve reconnected air temp, could not get obd reader to scan but fortunately brother a retired mechanic with a snap on so found fault codes p1260,p1110,p1470 and a strange one p1df5?

cleared the fault codes and took up the motorway seemed ok, but later on came the engine malfunction light and it slowed down ,embarrassing when an artic overtakes you! , going to try a fuel pump next let you know how I get on.

My Freelander is new to me and the more I go into it seems like a well read book :-(

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On 1/14/2016 at 11:21 PM, sjestew said:

I have got the same problem with my 2005 td4 ,replaced boost valve reconnected air temp, could not get obd reader to scan but fortunately brother a retired mechanic with a snap on so found fault codes p1260,p1110,p1470 and a strange one p1df5?

cleared the fault codes and took up the motorway seemed ok, but later on came the engine malfunction light and it slowed down ,embarrassing when an artic overtakes you! , going to try a fuel pump next let you know how I get on.

My Freelander is new to me and the more I go into it seems like a well read book :-(

Hi, Did you fix your problem? I have the same code errors.  

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