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fault with my D-reg 110 defender

First issue.

Heater,

What does the lever on the left handside of the airbox operate, My cable is Broken on this lever. If i Flip it all the way up No Air Blows through any of the vents , if i pull it all the way down it seems to blow put of both the vent on windscreen and under dash. Is this how it should be operating.?

went to fit 300 discovery alloys on my land rover 110 . and the rims don't seem to fit on the hubs correctly. is it the case they only fit over 200/300tdi axles ?

Next Question

Transfer Box the shaft that goes into it from gearbox is this replaceable with the gearbox in place ? or is it a gearbox out job ?

any answers would be greatly received :)

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The lever on the left side (next to the engine on the vertical face) is the air control lever. It controls the amount of air entering the cabin, nothing else. The lever on the top controls the hot/cold mix. The third control is inside the dash, it controls vents which direct the flow to screen or to footwells.

Early Defender axles have larger drive members which means a lot of later alloys wheels don't fit them. You can either modify one part of the equation or fit spacers to get around this. Worth bearing in mind that Discovery alloys probably aren't rated for the rear axle weight of a Defender 110.

With regard to the gearbox, replacing the output shaft of the main gearbox would mean stripping it down I think, so would be a box-out job. I assume you have a spline problem with it?

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The lever on the left side (next to the engine on the vertical face) is the air control lever. It controls the amount of air entering the cabin, nothing else. The lever on the top controls the hot/cold mix. The third control is inside the dash, it controls vents which direct the flow to screen or to footwells.

Early Defender axles have larger drive members which means a lot of later alloys wheels don't fit them. You can either modify one part of the equation or fit spacers to get around this. Worth bearing in mind that Discovery alloys probably aren't rated for the rear axle weight of a Defender 110.

With regard to the gearbox, replacing the output shaft of the main gearbox would mean stripping it down I think, so would be a box-out job. I assume you have a spline problem with it?

i will have a look at the lever inside then.

I will wait until i have to change my axles as i have a spare set of disco axles.

Basically my fault occurs when driving along above 60. when i go to let of the power i get a grinding noise from what sounds like the transfer box area, i can get play from the flange on the front flange. also if the vehicle is on the ground . i can get quiet a bit of rotational movement from the front shaft area. where as the rear i can get no retainable movement at all. i have a spare transfer box for the defender. hopefully its just going to be this.

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fault with my D-reg 110 defender

First issue.

Heater,

What does the lever on the left handside of the airbox operate, My cable is Broken on this lever. If i Flip it all the way up No Air Blows through any of the vents , if i pull it all the way down it seems to blow put of both the vent on windscreen and under dash. Is this how it should be operating.?

went to fit 300 discovery alloys on my land rover 110 . and the rims don't seem to fit on the hubs correctly. is it the case they only fit over 200/300tdi axles ?

Next Question

Transfer Box the shaft that goes into it from gearbox is this replaceable with the gearbox in place ? or is it a gearbox out job ?

any answers would be greatly received :)

suggest Sir looks at this thread in the Tech Archive Defender 90/110/130 heater checks

I will wait until i have to change my axles as i have a spare set of disco axles.

don't fit Discovery alloy wheels or rear axle to to any 110, the axle/wheels are not designed to fit & the 110's max loaded weight is most likely to high for them, thats why LR used the Salisbury rear axle & now the variation on the P38 rr2/XD/Wolf rear axle

gearboc full strip IIRC to change the mainshaft, ask Mr Ashcroft via e.mail or PM via this forum.

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The lever with the fan symbol operates not only the fan's electric switching but also a flap inside the back of the heater matrix housing, blocking any ram airflow cause by vehicle motion when the lever is in the "0" position (the Bowden cable connects to an operating arm in the side of the box below the heater matrix coolant pipes). The temperature control operates another Bowden cable that operates another flap inside the matrix housing that diverts air around the matrix itself when cold is selected, or diverts it through the matrix and closes the bypass when hot is selected, operated by an arm on the top of the housing. The demister/foot well control lever uses a third Bowden cable to operate a pair of blocker paddles inside the lower fascia, which block the foot well vents when demist is selected (you can see the paddles if you unscrew the plastic vent covers) or blocks the bottom of the demister vent corrugated tubes when foot well is selected.

Most alloys don't fit 200 Tdi axles or earlier - you need the 300 Tdi axles with the thin drive flanges and small plastic caps, or you can use the 4mm spacers sold on ebay, but you'd also need to fit longer wheel studs to make sure the thicker wheel and spacer don't limit the thread engagement of the wheel nuts to a dangerously small amount.

The gear box main shaft can only be replaced with the gear box removed and stripped down.

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my lever for the fan is broken :( was like this when bought. theres just a switch wired up for the control of the blower motor its self.

oh right.

i guess i wont bother with the alloy wheels :(

as im not going to be putting much weight in the back i didn't no weather or not id need such a heavy duty axle, but i guess while its not broken theres no point in messing with it.

hopefully i cam get away with just changing the transfer box although once i get the transfer box of i dare say il be able to inspect the condition of the shaft then replace as required.

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i guess i wont bother with the alloy wheels :(

as im not going to be putting much weight in the back i didn't no weather or not id need such a heavy duty axle, but i guess while its not broken theres no point in messing with it.

hopefully i cam get away with just changing the transfer box although once i get the transfer box of i dare say il be able to inspect the condition of the shaft then replace as required.

As above, the alloys arent rated for the weight of the vehicle. Even if you dont load it up, fitting the disco rear axle could result in invalid insurance (as could use of disco alloys), so i wouldnt bother with that either. The biggest gain you would get with the disco axle is rear disc brakes, but to be honest, the rear drums are not that bad if you keep them properly adjusted.

Remove the PTO cover from the transfer box, then take out the bearing carrier. Once that is removed, you can withdraw the input gear and examine the splines oin the gearbox shaft and the splines they engage with on the inside of the input gear. Decide what needs replacing from there, but it saves dropping either the transfer or main box before knowing what is going on. Normally the input gear and input shaft wear together, so if one needs replacing the other probably will as well if the wear is severe. Look in the tech archive - the article covering fitting a GKN overdrive covers removal of the input gear with some good pics. Get hold of the workshop manual to make sure you get the correct torque figures for re-assembly.

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