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90 body on 100" chassis


TobyMellin
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Hi,

Has anybody mounted a LR 90 body onto a disco or rrc 100" chassis?

If so, any pictures?

I assume that the fuel tank would need to be moved, rear end would need cutting down, part of 90 rear cross member etc.

Obviously the rear arch would need cutting horizontally to the end of the body (similar to some challenge trucks.

I've tried searching but couldn't find anything (apologies if there's already a thread about it).

Thanks.

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Someone better informed than me will probably be along in a while, with more accurate information, but in the meantime, there's going to be a 10 inch (give or take) difference in wheelbase, which means cutting down a 110 tub, or shortening the chassis. You'll have to fix outriggers to the chassis for the 90 bulkhead. that's the starting point anyway. Usual practice is to shorten a 110, or shorten the chassis, as you're trying in effect to stretch a 90 to 110. RRC and disco 1's have the same chassis, just a couple of different mountings.

Hope this helps. and like I said, someone will probably have more accurate infor you.

Si

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Hi,

Has anybody mounted a LR 90 body onto a disco or rrc 100" chassis?

If so, any pictures?

I assume that the fuel tank would need to be moved, rear end would need cutting down, part of 90 rear cross member etc.

Obviously the rear arch would need cutting horizontally to the end of the body (similar to some challenge trucks.

I've tried searching but couldn't find anything (apologies if there's already a thread about it).

Thanks.

Have you seen the DVD 'A 4x4 is Born'?

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Hi Toby?

I didn't build my Hybrid but the DVD is a good place to start plus it is back on Sky right now.

Might as well get this out of the way early on, what are you going to build it for?

Off road only or road legal?

If you want to put it on the road then use google to search this forum for SVA or IVA (forum search does not allow 3 letter words)or trayback as they also shorten the rear but not the wheel base. This may help with information and a view of the possible pitfalls?

There are quite a few chassis changes required but apart from the front and the rear most are removing outriggers and adding 90/110 ones.

There are LR look alike glass fibre bodies that are designed as a kit and easier but again there may be a testing requirement.

Good Luck.

Marc

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Someone better informed than me will probably be along in a while, with more accurate information, but in the meantime, there's going to be a 10 inch (give or take) difference in wheelbase, which means cutting down a 110 tub, or shortening the chassis. You'll have to fix outriggers to the chassis for the 90 bulkhead. that's the starting point anyway. Usual practice is to shorten a 110, or shorten the chassis, as you're trying in effect to stretch a 90 to 110. RRC and disco 1's have the same chassis, just a couple of different mountings.

Hope this helps. and like I said, someone will probably have more accurate infor you.

Si

Si,

I may not have explained it properly. I want to keep the length of the 90 body and keep the 100" wheelbase of the disco 1 chassis. The end result (looks wise) would be similar to fitting extended rear a frame, radius arms, moving shock & spring mounts back on a defender 90.

Have you seen the DVD 'A 4x4 is Born'?

I have seen bits of it yes, my friend also has the set. But I think you may have misunderstood, that's not exactly what I want to do, read above.

The dvd is useful to see how the defender body is mounted on a rrc/disco chassis, but i'm not shortening a 110 tub.

Hi Toby?

I didn't build my Hybrid but the DVD is a good place to start plus it is back on Sky right now.

Might as well get this out of the way early on, what are you going to build it for?

Off road only or road legal?

If you want to put it on the road then use google to search this forum for SVA or IVA (forum search does not allow 3 letter words)or trayback as they also shorten the rear but not the wheel base. This may help with information and a view of the possible pitfalls?

There are quite a few chassis changes required but apart from the front and the rear most are removing outriggers and adding 90/110 ones.

There are LR look alike glass fibre bodies that are designed as a kit and easier but again there may be a testing requirement.

Good Luck.

Marc

Hi Marc,

Road & off-road use. I have previous experiences of SVA testing, so that shouldn't be a problem. A slight obstacle yes. As I understand it, as I would be using all parts from the disco apart from the body, I could retain the reg etc from the disco. However, I think I'll need a bill of sale for the defender body. One thing I need to investigate is, that my disco doesn't have it's factory 3.5 v8 fitted, it has a 3.9 efi from a rrc, but I have a bill of sale for this.

Thanks.

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As already mentioned, chassis modifications will be the area that requires the most work.

- remove all the RRC/disco outriggers

- front/bulkhead outriggers

- centre tubular outriggers

- rear chassis profile

- rear crossmember

Off the top of my head.

I know it's not what you're planning to do, but it's worth having a look at this thread

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Sorry Hombre, misunderstood what you wanted. If it was my job, I'd tackle it this way.

Remove outriggers from chassis, measure back from the front end to place the outriggers for the bulkhead in the correct place. Mount bulkhead, and offer a wing up, check wheel is central to arch. Hang doors off bulkhead, so you can line up your tub. fit remaining outriggers. finish off by modding rear arch.chassis.

I know it's a condensed version, but in my humble opinion, them's the bare bones.

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Sorry, I misunderstood your intention with this project.

Seems to me that the rear end is still the most work. If you cut 10 inches (or is it 8) off the back end of the chassis, the replacement cross member will not be a straight fit due to the curve of the chassis rails. Also, won't the inner wheel arch need to be moved back or be enlarged to re centralise it with the wheel?

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Obviously the rear arch would need cutting horizontally to the end of the body (similar to some challenge trucks.

take a look at moose's 101" defender for the rear wheel position.

I have pretty much knocked this idea on the head, as although it is very possible, there looks to be a fair amount of chassis mods needed to achieve what I want. I think extending the wheelbase on a 90 SW and mount the engine as far back as possible would be a better project for me.

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