Rivets

[Jeff Young]

At some point I'll need to restore the galvanized cappings on my IIa 109 SW (they were painted by a PO). Whether or not they need galvanising, they'll need to come off to strip down (and to re-spray the bodywork underneath).

I've done plenty of pop-riveting in my day, but I notice that the parts book specifies solid rivets where both sides of the rivet are exposed. I've probably only formed 3 or 4 solid rivets in my life, but they took about 5min each (as opposed to about 10 seconds for a pop rivet). Does one get vastly faster forming the solid ones after they've done it a few times, or do most people just go with pop rivets all around?

Thanks,

Jeff.

[fozsug]

If you use one of these of the correct size for the solid rivet you are using, one good smack and job done!

But you could always use a good quality sealed pop rivet, alot easier!!

[Jeff Young]

Interesting. I thought one had to "rough-form" the rivet before using the setting tool (or whatever it's called).

I'll have to get a couple sizes of those and play around a bit.

Thanks,

Jeff.

(I assume the sealed pop-rivets still produce more of a bubble than a mushroom on the back side, which I suppose would be more likely to snag clothing, etc.)

[fozsug]

Interesting. I thought one had to "rough-form" the rivet before using the setting tool (or whatever it's called).

(I assume the sealed pop-rivets still produce more of a bubble than a mushroom on the back side, which I suppose would be more likely to snag clothing, etc.)

Sealed pop-rivets give the closest to a mushroom as you get with a solid rivet, comared to say blind or peel rivets, so you shouldnt get snagged on them

[western]

much easier to use sealed 'pop' rivets, getting a reaction tool in behind the panels will need a helper or a octopus & still isn't as quick or convienent as using pop rivets

[longlandy]

Depends on your skill level, rover used snap rivets for a reason though. If you go that route make sure they are annealed and some alloy rivets can go 'off'