110 'official' braking effort?

[oldwestern]

First thing to say is that I'm no mechanic whatsoever.

However, my friend and neighbour most certainly is, he rebuilt his landrover , virtually from the wheels up, and is helping to repair my '96 Defender 300TDi 110 cws following its MOT failure.

As part of the repairs it's had:-

New rear brake discs, pads and calipers fitted to both O/S and N/S.

Front NS brake caliper removed and later refitted after fixing issue with Stoneguard.

Road testing brakes on way to MOT at normal braking seemed fine but effect of hard braking, with hands of steering wheel, left steering wheel straight but front of vehicle to swerved to right.

The MOT tester did a brake test before even attempting to do a second MOT, which gave the following results:

AXLE 1 - NS: 320

AXLE 1 - OS: 400

AXLE 2 - NS: 310

AXLE 2 - OS: 310

BALANCE:-

AXLE 1 - NS: 230

AXLE 2 - NS: 300

My buddy would like to know:-

a) what Land Rover's 'official' brake effort figures should be for all-round disc brakes (front vented discs),

and I would like to know, in case he gets busy and can't get work on it,

b) What should be the order of investigation now?

H.

[Puffernutter]

Recheck the assembly/fitting, then re-bleed the N/S front caliper.

Could well still be some air in it.

Cheers

Peter

[oldwestern]

Recheck the assembly/fitting, then re-bleed the N/S front caliper.

Could well still be some air in it.

Cheers

Peter

Thanks, I should've said the brakes were bled just before retesting them.

Other folk have suggested :-

- replacing brake hoses (they're 15 yrs old)

- checking front caliper pistons

But I'd still like to know what brake effort should be.

H.

[western]

But I'd still like to know what brake effort should be.

there is no brake effort figures in the workshop manual, so provided the vehicle passed the MOT brake test, it's fine.

maybe a visit to a LR main dealer will reveal the brake effort figures, if there are any.

Edited December 21, 2010 by western

[Puffernutter]

I'm sure they were bled before, but it doesn't mean that there is no air in it!

Always worth re-bleeding.

Cheers

Peter

[RustyNissanPrairie]

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=62835&st=0&p=543921&fromsearch=1entry543921

with a Tapley IIRC it has to better than 50% but dont quote me on that.

[Somethingwitty]

Thanks, I should've said the brakes were bled just before retesting them.

Other folk have suggested :-

- replacing brake hoses (they're 15 yrs old)

- checking front caliper pistons

But I'd still like to know what brake effort should be.

H.

At 15 years old I'd be replacing those hoses, regardless of whether I thought that was the snag (and it wont help as they do get tired) - I'm not one for religious adherence to changing things at the recommended millage and nor do I change pads at 6mm like I've seen someone suggest! However, 15 years is pushing it - change them, they aren't expensive!

As regards bleeding I've often found a re-bleed assists, pressure bleeding helps too - I'd certainly give it another go.

It may be that one of the pistons is partially seized too.

In the past I've been known to roughen pads (WET to avoid brake dust inhalation). Bit of a dodge and not going to fix it long term but can buy you time / mobility to fix in the days after...

A mate of mine lost a brake hose on his car pulling out of the drive... night before we had been in convoy from France - ie a lot of 80mph - consider the impact of a brake failure and change those hoses!

Jim

[oldwestern]

At 15 years old I'd be replacing those hoses, regardless of whether I thought that was the snag (and it wont help as they do get tired) - I'm not one for religious adherence to changing things at the recommended millage and nor do I change pads at 6mm like I've seen someone suggest! However, 15 years is pushing it - change them, they aren't expensive!

As regards bleeding I've often found a re-bleed assists, pressure bleeding helps too - I'd certainly give it another go.

It may be that one of the pistons is partially seized too.

In the past I've been known to roughen pads (WET to avoid brake dust inhalation). Bit of a dodge and not going to fix it long term but can buy you time / mobility to fix in the days after...

A mate of mine lost a brake hose on his car pulling out of the drive... night before we had been in convoy from France - ie a lot of 80mph - consider the impact of a brake failure and change those hoses!

Jim

Well it's pretty clear from the replies that I'd be daft not to have the hoses replaced, so that'll be next on the 'must do' list. My buddy has already talked of roughening the pads and he'll inspect pistons at the same time.

I rang the MOT garage to get the figures and even they couldn't /wouldn't give them to me. They simply said it had passed on effort but failed on inbalance - though why it 's proving so difficult to get a figure of what the minimum effort should be is beyond me.

Still, to every one who replied - Thanks for your help.

Regards.

H.