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Just Put a Heated front screen in my 87' 110 Defender ...

Insurance job :)

All i had to pay was my £100 excess.

Even how cold it is at the minute i managed to get away with using one 70amp rear heated relay from vehicle wiring products,using 50amp cabling, Wired into a carling push mon switch, and as i havnt got a heated rear window, ive attached a tell-tale to the rear window illumination in dash .

What an excellent £100 well spent.

Next on the cards. Heated Mirrors, Heated rear window, Insulate inside the commercial Body.(had ice forming inside on roof) Then possibly aux heater if i feel that its still to cold.

And more importantly electric cooling fan so the damn thing heats up alittle better.

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Depending on what engine you've got-just remove the viscous fan and run it without. I've not had a fan on my 2.5NA for the last 3 years summer or winters. Keep it in the back just until your happy with the engine temps.

Also again depending on the engine-see if there's a higher rated thermostat that can be installed. The 2.5NA can use an 88 degree 'stat (ERR831 or ERR2803) as fitted to Winterised ex-military Defenders, makes a big difference to heater temp.

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I have run my 300 Tdi without any fan for years and it has never got too hot, apart from one occasion climbing steep hills in the Pyrenees. No problem at sustained high(ish) speeds 65-70mph for hours on end and no problems at all on Saturday when the thing was running solidly for over 8 hours, either stationary or at fairly low speeds in interesting weather.

I am seriously toying with the idea of a heated screen and heated seats however.

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"Just Put a Heated front screen in my 87' 110 Defender ... Insurance job All i had to pay was my £100 excess."

That's a lot for windscreen insurance, I had my heated front screen replaced (again) a few months ago and it is only £50 with Equity Red Star through Lancaster.

That said, you did the right thing getting the replacement on the insurance. Some people don't even ask if the windscreen company will replace a normal one for a heated one and they pay full retail price then end up kicking themselves when they realise they could have saved a few £.

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Depending on what engine you've got-just remove the viscous fan and run it without. I've not had a fan on my 2.5NA for the last 3 years summer or winters. Keep it in the back just until your happy with the engine temps.

Also again depending on the engine-see if there's a higher rated thermostat that can be installed. The 2.5NA can use an 88 degree 'stat (ERR831 or ERR2803) as fitted to Winterised ex-military Defenders, makes a big difference to heater temp.

Removing the fan is a much repeated piece of extremely bad advice - get stuck in traffic, which is not unlikely in this weather, and your engine could be cooked. The fan makes no appreciable difference to the engine temperature anyway - my Tdi RRC warms up faster despite its seized viscous fan than my Tdi 109 with electric fan. Rad muffs (including sheets of wood or cardboard) are also unnecessary in all but the severest of conditions - justified in those areas which have reached the depths of -20oC, but not for the rest of the UK around -10oC; if the thermosat is working, the rad will be shut off and the residual airflow over the block would not be significant to engine temperatures.

The thermostat is, however, good advice. They do wear out and can fail open, shut or anywhere in between, or partially fail such that they open prematurely or late. They're cheap and easy to replace, but make sure you buy genuine - pattern thermostats are notoriously unreliable.

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"Removing the fan is a much repeated piece of extremely bad advice - get stuck in traffic, which is not unlikely in this weather, and your engine could be cooked. The fan makes no appreciable difference to the engine temperature anyway - my Tdi RRC warms up faster despite its seized viscous fan than my Tdi 109 with electric fan. Rad muffs (including sheets of wood or cardboard) are also unnecessary in all but the severest of conditions - justified in those areas which have reached the depths of -20oC, but not for the rest of the UK around -10oC; if the thermosat is working, the rad will be shut off and the residual airflow over the block would not be significant to engine temperatures.

The thermostat is, however, good advice. They do wear out and can fail open, shut or anywhere in between, or partially fail such that they open prematurely or late. They're cheap and easy to replace, but make sure you buy genuine - pattern thermostats are notoriously unreliable."

I agree completely.

If the thermostat is working correctly then the water won't be going through the rad. I run a viscous fan and no rad muff on my 300TDi yet my engine warms up fine and full heat is available through the heater by the time 5-miles have been covered.

23-Years ago (see, I can even recall when I did it!) I boiled my 2.25P by blocking the rad. The temperature was about -8 degrees and the heater on my S111 wasn't much cop so I followed the old advice of fitting a sheet in front of the radiator, it was drilled with a series of 25mm holes to allow limited air-flow but I boiled over in less than 5-miles. I removed it and have never fitted a muff of any kind since, I do however ensure that the cooling & heating systems are working correctly.

Anyway, I think we are :offtopic:

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