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Terminating vehicle wiring


Quagmire
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Right,

So the expanse of wiring in my battery box grows steadily bigger with the latest addition being for the wideband my girlfriend got me for my birthday.

All is working fine, but I seem to have some kind of ground offset issue as the AFR being logged in Megajolt is higher/leaner than those reported directly by the LC-1.

Anyways I though that as part of sorting this out I should probably pull my finger out and rationalise/improve some of the wiring that I have done that worked at the time but could have been done better.

A big part of this is grouping switched lives, earths etc onto nice "proper" terminal strips or boxes that then have a single feed in or out.

Can anyone recommend anything?

Thanks! :P

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I've (unsurprisingly) made my own!

Strips of Aluminium (sourced from B&Q as kitchen worktop edging) bolted to the body through a piece of 6mm thick plastic sheet using (insulating) number-plate bolts.

Power connections are via M8 stainless countersunk screws poking through the Al strips with a lock-nut.

I have Battery live, ignition live (switched through a 180A relay with the coil connected to another ignition live) and battery negative.

Si

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Aluminium AND Stainless Steel; Interesting.

Both fine and useful materials, but together, for electrical connections?

Given the high level of attention (I suspect) your vehicle gets then any electrolytic re-action will be spotted early, and dealt with, but I'd understood from reading threads about Series vehicles, and their 'aluminium' (Birmabright) bodies, that stainless steel and aluminium were a combination to be avoided.

I wish I had a roadworthy Series vehicle which I could use as an example, but this comment is unfortunately made from an armchair rather than a driving seat or workshop.

Regards.

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Aluminium AND Stainless Steel; Interesting.

You're right - however, there really isn't a combination of metals which are cost effective, good electrical conductors and provide good corrosion resistance and a degree of mechanical strength.

In practice, this provides a reasonable compromise and over the course of the 15 years or so that I've used varients on this idea, it has proven very reliable. I guess if you need something which will provide good electrical properties and will not corrode for the life of a Series - you need to go for solid Gold bus-bars and Gold plated Stainless bolts!

Si

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Aha- sorry, yes its a wideband lambda sensor and having a provision for fuses in one place would be nice :D

I liking the look of one of these:

12 way fuse box

Thanks for the replies so far :)

I have the same unit in the 90. Very useful for additional power sources. Fed via a 100 amp fuse :)

http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2009/10/auxillary-fusebox-install/

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Aha- sorry, yes its a wideband lambda sensor and having a provision for fuses in one place would be nice :D

I liking the look of one of these:

12 way fuse box

Thanks for the replies so far :)

I've fitted one of these in someone else's motor. Build quality is good. Top and Bottom common rails for the fuses are separate, so you can have a permanant rail and a switched rail.

The only thing I will say is, because it has no cable management as such, its best in the battery box or out of sight, it was difficult to make it tidy when it was in full view.

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