forkrentfitter Posted January 2, 2011 Share Posted January 2, 2011 Things will have to go pretty horribly wrong for you to loose all your coolant though, and even then the hot air in the system should still tell your sender something methinks. i disagree,a few years ago one of the more common faults with 300tdi,s was for the p gasket to fail,the coolant would seep away,temp guage did not register,next thing over heating,usually a cracked cyl head,most owners would say the guage never went in to the red,for the record i must have repaired at least a dozen due to this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elbekko Posted January 2, 2011 Share Posted January 2, 2011 Hmm, interesting. Well, good to know. Perhaps we finally found out why my dad's cylinder head cracked a few years ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted January 2, 2011 Share Posted January 2, 2011 One reason why the 300 is more prone to cracking the head is the waterpump being at the top of the engine - as soon as the level drops there is no circulation at all allowing much higher head temps to be reached much quicker = cracks. I've done more than a few 300's where the temp sender half way down the top of the head on the manifold side has been a melted puddle of blue plastic....and the heads also warp from the heat too 0.060" + Often scrap for that reason alone. ..at least with the 200 the pump will keep trying to throw water up to the head even when low on coolant, also more chance to see the overheat on the gauge as the sender will keep getting some flow for longer. cheers Steveb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted January 2, 2011 Share Posted January 2, 2011 I had this more than once on a 300 - when the coolant was low, the temp guage stayed about the same - or even dropped through being out of the water - resulting in the head getting very hot! My solution was to adapt the temp sensor to screw directly in to the head to measure the temperature of the metal rather than the water. This was achieved by drilling a new hole the right size for the probe, then sticking it in with heat sink compound. It worked pretty well - as soon as the water level became low - the temperature would shoot up! Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 3, 2011 Author Share Posted January 3, 2011 I guess that coolant-wise, it doesnt want anything special? Halfords have post and pre 1998 stuff. This OK? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 3, 2011 Share Posted January 3, 2011 The pre-1998 stuff is what you want for the 200Tdi. Ethelene glycol based, containing no methanol. Td5s and later use the post-1998 stuff (also has OAT corrosion inhibitors or something? It's a different colour anyway). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.