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Correct Alternator for Defender?


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Looks like one of my alternators has packed up again. I just spent a couple hundred bucks six months ago for someone to rebuild it. The charge light never did go out. So I am thinking it had some diode issues, too,

but in any case,

I am tired of worrying about it.

Can someone tell me what the correct part number for the alternator would be for a 2005 TDi? I found a place in the US that sells REPT330114 but when I look that number up I get a reference to Toyotas online. IF that's the correct number, and it's also a Toyota part, I could probably find one here.

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Ah, AMR3412 seems to be the right one, according to that manual, and assuming they didn't change them over the years.

Thank you very much.

Now,if I can just find something that was imported to North America that also used that alternator, I might be in luck.

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There is nothing special about alternators, as such. Additionally, Landrover do not make alternators.

For example, the A127 Alternator used on 200 TDIs and V8s, is also fitted to plenty of Fords, as well as quite a few boat engines!

I suspect you will be able to find/buy the right alternator, without going anywhere near a Landrover Parts supplier.

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Well, the problem I am having is that North American companies don't have any references in their data bases to any Defenders after 96. So the moment I get someone who asks me "What vehicle is this for?" when looking for a part....I know I am screwed. The next line from them is invariably..."We don't stock parts for that vehicle". It's really frustrating. I have gone through this several times, and still haven't learned to lie about what I want the part for.

I'll try finding an AMR 4249 instead, when the internet bozos open again tomorrow ( Monday). Was that manufactured by Denso?

By the way, I called the local NAPA auto parts store yesterday, and they told me they had the alternator in stock! At only $ 1,067.

Funny, huh?

The only good news there is that they don't know what the hell they are talking about. They don't have it in stock, and don't know how to use their own software. But they would have been happy to sell me an alternator for eleven hundred dollars.

Its not all Corona commercials, living in a small tropical island nation.

I just noticed that the alternator listed on LRdirect.com is a AMR4249R.....instead of an AMR4249 without an R. Can someone tell me what the R is and if I need that version?

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Ah, thank you.

I have also noticed that they are happy to ship to various post codes, but there is no mention of using FedEx or UPS. Postal service is no good here. So I suspect I am going to have to keep looking for a supplier.

Is the 4248 worth the extra money for 100 amps? I don't run any off road lights or winches, etc. but it would be nice if the headlamps burned a bit brighter. Lets face it, stock Defenders lose the night-blind war with the local drivers every time, with those pale yellow headlamps. (Locals here don't use dimmer switches or turn signals. and they are not required to.)

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  • 1 month later...

It's now been over a month since I installed the new 100 amp alternator. Things have been great. the long time warning light has gone away. Things that didn't work well ( intermittent wipers) now seem to work great. The radio did not work, and now it does.

Recently, we have noticed that the air con fan only works in the high position. This pre-dated the new alernator. Which didn't miraculously cure it as it seems to have done with the other stuff. Then on tuesday, when I went to start the motor ( after changing a rusted out brake line) it would not start. Nothing happened when I turned the key. no clicks. Dead. BUT the wipers and radio worked. I checked battery voltage ( 12.56) and the 30 amp fuse under the drivers seat, nothing amiss. Then the last time I turned the key, it started. It started maybe a half dozen times as though nothing were wrong. Then this morning, again, dead when I turn the key.

I would be appreciative if anyone could point me in the most likely direction. Is there a starter relay, I suppose? Would a short in the fan switch somehow translate to a starting issue? Help!

Thank god we've got the 90 while the 110's down.

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There is nothing special about alternators, as such. Additionally, Landrover do not make alternators.

For example, the A127 Alternator used on 200 TDIs and V8s, is also fitted to plenty of Fords, as well as quite a few boat engines!

I suspect you will be able to find/buy the right alternator, without going anywhere near a Landrover Parts supplier.

Unfortunately these style of alternators are very rare on North American vehicles.

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Then on tuesday, when I went to start the motor ( after changing a rusted out brake line) it would not start. Nothing happened when I turned the key. no clicks. Dead. BUT the wipers and radio worked. I checked battery voltage ( 12.56) and the 30 amp fuse under the drivers seat, nothing amiss. Then the last time I turned the key, it started. It started maybe a half dozen times as though nothing were wrong. Then this morning, again, dead when I turn the key.

I would be appreciative if anyone could point me in the most likely direction. Is there a starter relay, I suppose? Would a short in the fan switch somehow translate to a starting issue? Help!

Thank god we've got the 90 while the 110's down.

It is either the ignition switch or the starter solenoid (there is no relay).

The fan is probably a dead fan resistor or loose wire.

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Well, that's good to know. thanks. The only circuit diagrams I can find online are from an older time, I found several things different.

Are the fan resistors physically at the fan or are they at the switch? I haven't started taking the ac apart yet.

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It is either the ignition switch or the starter solenoid (there is no relay).

I don't think that's right. On my 1990 vehicle there is a relay which has to close for the engine to crank. To make matters even more confusing, the ground connection for the coil is a black wire with green trace. On vehicles with an auto box it is switched to prevent the engine from being cranked unless the box is in 'park' but on non auto vehicles it is grounded at the stud on the bulkhead in the engine bay.

Nick.

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There definitely is a starter relay. It's mounted by the fuse panel.

Well, I noticed there are three relays under the passenger compartment fuse panel, at least I think they are relays. Four connector plug in's? Yellow plastic boxes about an inch on a side? but the little images on the drawing of what they are for do not indicate anything to do with the starter.

And that page of the manual is completely blank, telling me to refer to the little drawing on the fuse panel cover.

I went and swapped the middle and right relays to see if it made a difference. It did not.

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I still think it's too coincidental that this problem cropped up the first time I tried to start the Defender after replacing that brake line that runs from under the master cylinder back along the top of the chassis to where it splits for the rear axle. Is there any kind of switch or wiring that could stop the truck from starting if I snagged it trying to fish the old brake line out, or the new one in? That would be basically any kind of safety switch wiring along the chassis between the firewall and the radiator. I don't know of any interlock switches to prevent the starter from operating, but thought I should ask.

If I put a volt meter on earth and on the little single pole connector on the solenoid, should I see 12 vdc there when the key is turned to the Start position?

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