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difflock lever


nickt
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On my D reg land rover 90 I have trouble trying to get the difflock lever back into the r/h position. It engages in the l/h position ok and the difflock works, but most the time I can only get it back into the middle position, does this disengage the difflock. As ever since I have had the 90 the difflock light hasnt worked. It will go into the r/h position occasionly but it needs alot of force.

Will it be ok to use until i have the time to look into whats causing the problem, and any ideas what the problem I might have as most issues reported are trying to get it into l/h position not r/h.

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On my D reg land rover 90 I have trouble trying to get the difflock lever back into the r/h position. It engages in the l/h position ok and the difflock works, but most the time I can only get it back into the middle position, does this disengage the difflock. As ever since I have had the 90 the difflock light hasnt worked. It will go into the r/h position occasionly but it needs alot of force.

Will it be ok to use until i have the time to look into whats causing the problem, and any ideas what the problem I might have as most issues reported are trying to get it into l/h position not r/h.

Most lightly the linkage needs adjusting and if the light on the dash is not working you will have no way of knowing if the diff is locked or not. Its not worth taking the chance and maybe wrecking your transmission on the way home. The linkage is handy enough to work on just have to spend some time taking the center tunnel out.

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the selection is shaped like an 'H'

to the bottom left you have diff-lock on, high gear

to the top left you have diff-lock on, low gear

to the top right you have diff-lock off, low gear

to the bottom right you have diff-lock off, high gear

smack bang in the middle is neutral

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I don't think there are three positions left-to-right like there are front-to-back. It's just either in diff-lock or not.

I get two clunks on the diff lock lever, i.e. three positions. From Ashcroft's site (below) it seems that one clunk out is out of diff lock and two clunks does nothing more, so the lever being in the middle setting should have disengaged it.

"The most common error when setting the difflock is not understanding which position to set the input shaft to. As you noticed there are three positions on the difflock input shaft; counterclockwise, centre and clockwise. The counterclockwise position is a "dummy" i.e. not used. You need to set the linkage up to move from centre position to clockwise position. If you set this up to this position you should resolve your problem."

From here: http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=45#faq62 (expand FAQs)

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the selection is shaped like an 'H'

to the bottom left you have diff-lock on, high gear

to the top left you have diff-lock on, low gear

to the top right you have diff-lock off, low gear

to the bottom right you have diff-lock off, high gear

smack bang in the middle is neutral

Well thats wrong because you dont need to go through netural to select difflock, so its more like a B than an H

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Well thats wrong because you dont need to go through netural to select difflock, so its more like a B than an H

fair point but I was using the 'H' shape to demonstrate the 4 points of selection rather than how to select. I didn't say anything about having to go through neutral to select diff-lock

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I will have to take the tunnel out and have a look. im sure i used to have three positions with a positive clunk between each almost as if it locks it in a disengaged position but since i went off road sunday i havent.

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fair point but I was using the 'H' shape to demonstrate the 4 points of selection rather than how to select. I didn't say anything about having to go through neutral to select diff-lock

Sorry, I thought your first post was suggesting that it had to go through neutral to click the difflock on or off, my mistake.

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You dont need to take the tunel out to have a look, If I was you remove center seat and lift cover, get a good light and drop you head in the hole and you will be able to see what is happening. I did this and found all linkages working as they should but a bit loose on the pivots. The problem I had was the gear stick rubber boot or the plate that holds it in place.

The stick was hitting it before it engaged so removed the cover and filed about 2mm out of it.

Now works fine - I will do the linkages later as I plan to strip the thing down this year.

Regards

Frax :)

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