madmatt Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Afternoon all, After some help if possible please, I have a 96 300tdi 130 with about 125k on the clock when starting from cold first thing in the morning the oil light is staying on until the engine has been running for aroun 3-4 seconds, if I stop it and restart it after a couple of mins the light will only stay on for 1-2 seconds on further starts during the day the light will go out immediatly on starting. Any ideas I am quite worried about this, is something about to go wrong big style? the light has never come on when driving either. thanks Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 I assume you have checked the oil level? And it's the correct grade? No big oil leaks? The oil pressure switch is cheap and easy to replace, I would start with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmatt Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 Sorry, Yes I ment to say the oil level is correct and of the rigt grade, I'll order a switch. Thanks anyone else got any obvious stuff to check? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sutty_32 Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 If its been a while since its last service its always worth giving it an oil and filter change, never hurts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 I had a similar thing, was the oil switch, so it's prime suspect but I'd recommend 10w/40 or 5w/40 rather than the handbook 15/40, as that made a huge difference to the time for the light to go out. 15w/40 might have been the best when the handbookw was printed but we can do better now. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 is a failed switch likely to be the cause of never having seen my oil light light up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LandyManLuke Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Possibly, or faulty wiring, either way you should get it sorted, or continue with the risk of not knowing you've lost oil pressure until it's too late. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Serenity Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 ever since I bought my Landy the battery and oil light stay on until I give the engine a little rev. I've not had any long term problems from it though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souster Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 My 300tdi 90 with 125k on the clock does exactly the same... its just had a new pressure switch and oil/filter change with 10w/40 semi synthetic. Why is it a problem then if the oil light stays on for 3-4 seconds, i just thought you need to give it time for the oil pressure to build up?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 ever since I bought my Landy the battery and oil light stay on until I give the engine a little rev. I've not had any long term problems from it though just raise the idle revs slightly, by adjusting the black plastic nut on the throttle cable. idle rpm should be 750 to 850rpm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Serenity Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 just raise the idle revs slightly, by adjusting the black plastic nut on the throttle cable. idle rpm should be 750 to 850rpm Is that necessary then Western? Do I have a problem? Also, I have no rev counter so how do I know what revs the engine is doing? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 My 300tdi 90 with 125k on the clock does exactly the same... its just had a new pressure switch and oil/filter change with 10w/40 semi synthetic. Why is it a problem then if the oil light stays on for 3-4 seconds, i just thought you need to give it time for the oil pressure to build up?? Most switches operate at very low oil pressure like 5psi; so if you have the light on it means the engine has next to no oil pressure. In fact if it comes on while you're going and the switch isn't faulty it's a sign that damage might well have already happened. Switches in engines for motorsport use tend to switch at 20-25psi, but they usually have raised oil pressures - if the light comes on you might have a chance to save the engine. The bearings rely on small positive pressure to keep oil fed, so that they 'surf' on a wave of oil otherwise you get metal to metal contact. The turbo in particular is vulnerable to oil starvation, therefore you want to get pressure up as soon as possible. Some commercial engines pre-pressurize the system before the starter operates. Just because there's oil pressure at the switch doesn't mean there is at the turbo bearing. If the oil is too thick it can cause quite a delay in pressure build up. Giving it a massive rev under those circumstances isn't a terribly good idea either. But I'd have thought 3-4 secs was ok provided it's at only idle or slightly more. Thinner oil when cold is good as it gets round quicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Is that necessary then Western? Do I have a problem? Also, I have no rev counter so how do I know what revs the engine is doing? Cheers sometimes the vibrations from the engine can move the adjuster nut,on my old throttle cable LR added some sealant to stop the nut shaking loose when it was correctly set, fitting a rev counter isn't difficult, plenty on here have done it & there's lots of info within this forum or get your local garage to check it for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJB Serenity Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 great thanks western, I'll have a look because I'm sure it ticks over at lower revs than it should when idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 Personally I wouldn't use a thinner oil than 15w40 in this engine. After all, the basic design goes back to the 2l SII diesel of 1958, although the 300Tdi does have a modern and very efficient oil pump. When working on LRs for a living it was a common thing for people to insist their turbo was stuffed because the engine had no go, and to find out that the throttle cable adjuster had slackened off to the extent that they were not getting full throttle. I know this, because it happened to me first. The clue is that there is lots of play in the throttle pedal before the engine starts to rev up. It's a simple fix to glue up the adjuster. It also gave me some very happy clients If your oil light won't easily go out another thing to do is to remove the sump and change the oil pressure valve sliding thingy and, more importantly, the spring under it. The manual gives you the length that the spring should have, and at 125k miles the chances are that your spring has lost quite a bit of its tension. It is, of course, a hassle to take off and refit the sump unfortunately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 Reading through this older thread, it may lead to the problems that I'm now experiencing. At start up the oil pressure light is on longer than normal and I've noticed that when I have the engine up the rev band ( just before shifting to a higher gear) the oil pressure light will flicker. Also there is an annoying rattle in the engine at start up and seems to go away once what ever it is get lubricated. I can hear this rattle at the front of the motor but I still can't pinpoint exactly where it is. I'm wondering if it's just the oil pressure valve ore do I have to look further into the oil pump? Any suggestions are welcomed. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 the oil pump & relief valve in a 300tdi is part of the timing case. page 219, shows the oil pump parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 Yes Ralph, It looks like I'll have to remove the sump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jai_landrover Posted September 24, 2011 Share Posted September 24, 2011 I had issues similar to the above but no noise or rattling. My oil light would flicker at tickover or when pulling away at lights typical low oil pressure problem. I removed the pressure switch and replaced it. Before throwing the old one away I cut it in 2 and the diaphram was split giving false readings. So far so good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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