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Oil light staying on


madmatt

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Afternoon all,

After some help if possible please, I have a 96 300tdi 130 with about 125k on the clock when starting from cold first thing in the morning the oil light is staying on until the engine has been running for aroun 3-4 seconds, if I stop it and restart it after a couple of mins the light will only stay on for 1-2 seconds on further starts during the day the light will go out immediatly on starting.

Any ideas I am quite worried about this, is something about to go wrong big style? the light has never come on when driving either.

thanks

Matt

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I had a similar thing, was the oil switch, so it's prime suspect but I'd recommend 10w/40 or 5w/40 rather than the handbook 15/40, as that made a huge difference to the time for the light to go out. 15w/40 might have been the best when the handbookw was printed but we can do better now.

Nigel

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My 300tdi 90 with 125k on the clock does exactly the same... its just had a new pressure switch and oil/filter change with 10w/40 semi synthetic. Why is it a problem then if the oil light stays on for 3-4 seconds, i just thought you need to give it time for the oil pressure to build up??

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ever since I bought my Landy the battery and oil light stay on until I give the engine a little rev. I've not had any long term problems from it though

just raise the idle revs slightly, by adjusting the black plastic nut on the throttle cable.

idle rpm should be 750 to 850rpm

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just raise the idle revs slightly, by adjusting the black plastic nut on the throttle cable.

idle rpm should be 750 to 850rpm

Is that necessary then Western? Do I have a problem? Also, I have no rev counter so how do I know what revs the engine is doing?

Cheers

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My 300tdi 90 with 125k on the clock does exactly the same... its just had a new pressure switch and oil/filter change with 10w/40 semi synthetic. Why is it a problem then if the oil light stays on for 3-4 seconds, i just thought you need to give it time for the oil pressure to build up??

Most switches operate at very low oil pressure like 5psi; so if you have the light on it means the engine has next to no oil pressure. In fact if it comes on while you're going and the switch isn't faulty it's a sign that damage might well have already happened. Switches in engines for motorsport use tend to switch at 20-25psi, but they usually have raised oil pressures - if the light comes on you might have a chance to save the engine. The bearings rely on small positive pressure to keep oil fed, so that they 'surf' on a wave of oil otherwise you get metal to metal contact. The turbo in particular is vulnerable to oil starvation, therefore you want to get pressure up as soon as possible. Some commercial engines pre-pressurize the system before the starter operates. Just because there's oil pressure at the switch doesn't mean there is at the turbo bearing. If the oil is too thick it can cause quite a delay in pressure build up. Giving it a massive rev under those circumstances isn't a terribly good idea either. But I'd have thought 3-4 secs was ok provided it's at only idle or slightly more. Thinner oil when cold is good as it gets round quicker.

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Is that necessary then Western? Do I have a problem? Also, I have no rev counter so how do I know what revs the engine is doing?

Cheers

sometimes the vibrations from the engine can move the adjuster nut,on my old throttle cable LR added some sealant to stop the nut shaking loose when it was correctly set, fitting a rev counter isn't difficult, plenty on here have done it & there's lots of info within this forum or get your local garage to check it for you.

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Personally I wouldn't use a thinner oil than 15w40 in this engine. After all, the basic design goes back to the 2l SII diesel of 1958, although the 300Tdi does have a modern and very efficient oil pump.

When working on LRs for a living it was a common thing for people to insist their turbo was stuffed because the engine had no go, and to find out that the throttle cable adjuster had slackened off to the extent that they were not getting full throttle. I know this, because it happened to me first. The clue is that there is lots of play in the throttle pedal before the engine starts to rev up. It's a simple fix to glue up the adjuster. It also gave me some very happy clients :rolleyes:

If your oil light won't easily go out another thing to do is to remove the sump and change the oil pressure valve sliding thingy and, more importantly, the spring under it. The manual gives you the length that the spring should have, and at 125k miles the chances are that your spring has lost quite a bit of its tension. It is, of course, a hassle to take off and refit the sump unfortunately.

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  • 8 months later...

Reading through this older thread, it may lead to the problems that I'm now experiencing.

At start up the oil pressure light is on longer than normal and I've noticed that when I have the engine up the rev band ( just before shifting to a higher gear) the oil pressure light will flicker.

Also there is an annoying rattle in the engine at start up and seems to go away once what ever it is get lubricated. I can hear this rattle at the front of the motor but I still can't pinpoint exactly where it is. :angry2:

I'm wondering if it's just the oil pressure valve ore do I have to look further into the oil pump?

Any suggestions are welcomed.

Todd.

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I had issues similar to the above but no noise or rattling. My oil light would flicker at tickover or when pulling away at lights typical low oil pressure problem. I removed the pressure switch and replaced it. Before throwing the old one away I cut it in 2 and the diaphram was split giving false readings. So far so good.

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