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I may look into replacing my shocks this year. I would like a bit more travel, good solid performance and reliability, but do not want to make any other adjustment to my suspension if possible. Can I fit shocks that allow longer travel without making any other changes? Is there anything else I need to know?

I do not have a lift and she has all her original suspension parts (as far as I am aware).

Any recommendations would also be appreciated. I am leaning towards Pro-Comp as I have heard good things, and am leaning away from Terrafirma as I've not heard such good things.

Thanks folks,

John

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I have had Pro Comp and found they were good enough for a budget shock but rusted really quickly.

Just bought Terrafirma so will wait and see how they perform and last.

Frax :huh:

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Didn't realise that they were a budget shock! So what's at the top of the market then?

How long did you have the Pro Comp shocks Frax?

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I have had a full set of Terrafirma springs shocks and turrets on my 110 for about 15k now, I wanted to some that were both OK for normal driving but would work well when fully loaded, the ones I have give the truck a slight lift when not loaded but sit well when full which suits me as I also use it for work and load it with beer.

I have been impressed as far as I am 15k in and they are showing no signs of ware and don what they say on the tin, I think the other option out there seems to be to go for OE Land Rover HD springs seems to work for the British Army and any NGO that uses Land Rovers overseas.

Jason.

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Cheers chaps, I didn't consider OME actually so I should have a good look at them.

If I'm only replacing the shocks do I need to change anything else at the same time, particularly if I go for a bit more travel?

Cheers

John

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Had pro-comp and put them in the bin recently, awful, especially over things like speed bumps, the white paint lasted about a month. I have installed Terrafirma Big bore expedition shocks and seriously impressed.I asked around and several large 4x4 firms all recommended Old Man EMU HD springs and Terrafirma shocks, hope they last!

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That's two people who have ditched Pro-Comps then. I'm surprised. I thought that they were supposed to be the wise choice over Terrafirma, or have I got that wrong?

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Avoid Pro Comp, they really are cheaply made **** :)

Mo

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A mate of mine has had procomp for years and swore by them but in the last year hes gone through 2 sets so has changed to old man emu i think.

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my truck came with pro-comps, but when I have the money they will be going in favour of Terrafirma or OME depending on how much I can afford.

my rear shocks are about 18 months old...and already rusting!

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Fit OME by all means, but make sure you keep the invoice so that you can get them changed under warranty. If you must fit something made by those guys who hate losing at any sport whatsoever go for Ironman as they don't fail.

You may have guessed that I consider OME to be the most overrated and overpriced gear on the market.

They are second on my hate list (after K&N who win hands down).

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Thanks guys, I've ruled out Pro-Comp for the time being and will look at other options.

Jim, I hadn't heard of Ironman before reading another post of yours. I will take a look at them, thanks.

Has anyone else had experience of Ironman shocks?

Sorry to keep banging on but can anyone advise me on the fitting side? I really need to know if I am going to have to buy and fit anything else if I replace the shocks or whether they can simply replace the old ones.

Many thanks

John

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depends on the shock length and spring length,

but if you are wanting to keep everything standard - and try to free up some more travel by fitting longer shocks - you need to get your tape measure out and start some phong about as well.

at the back,

remove the springs and sit the vehicle on its bump stops. measure the maximum closed position from the top and bottom shock mount.

at the front,

same as the back :D

take 10mm off your measurements - accounts for the bumpstops compressing a bit when you hammer the suspension over an unexpected big bump! This is the biggest closed length shock you can fit without changing any other bits.

Now decide which brand you want to send money too and phone them up and ask about the shocks measurements and get the shock that has the nearest closed length to what you measured. DO NOT EXCEED THE MAXIMUM CLOSED LENGTH, or you may bottom the shock out and snap it.

depending on the length of the shock, you may need relocation cones to retain the springs on max droop.

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take 10mm off your measurements - accounts for the bumpstops compressing a bit when you hammer the suspension over an unexpected big bump! This is the biggest closed length shock you can fit without changing any other bits.

I would allow a lot more than that, I had half an inch clearance on mine, with poly bush stops and I now have dented/bent front inner wings to prove that they compress more than 10mm :rolleyes:

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I've just driven from UK to Capetown with Koni Heavy Trak, and they are as good as the day I put them on.

In fact, one particularly bad rock strewn corrugated excuse for a road was so rough that the rear shock punched a large hole straight through the lower shock mount on the axle - the shock was dragged, driven on and battered with rocks for 15 mins before I realised, but after getting the axle welded up, the shock was reused with no damage.

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Thanks chaps that's very helpful!

Would it be worth changing the stops at the same time do you think?

Thanks for the recommendation Eightpot, I'll add the Koni Heavy Track to the list.

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Another vote for Terrafirma from me...

Changed from OEM and it's v.good - £30/corner avg for the Shox I think

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I have just ditched my pro comps for terrafirma and has transformed my truck. I think they are a good price for what you are getting in comparison to the pro comp shocks.

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If you want to change the bumpstops, dont go poly. I have spare set of Bearmach rubber ones, cant recall if front or back, part number ANR 4188. Donation to forum would suffice, plus P&P.

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depends on the shock length and spring length,

but if you are wanting to keep everything standard - and try to free up some more travel by fitting longer shocks - you need to get your tape measure out and start some phong about as well.

at the back,

remove the springs and sit the vehicle on its bump stops. measure the maximum closed position from the top and bottom shock mount.

at the front,

same as the back :D

take 10mm off your measurements - accounts for the bumpstops compressing a bit when you hammer the suspension over an unexpected big bump! This is the biggest closed length shock you can fit without changing any other bits.

Now decide which brand you want to send money too and phone them up and ask about the shocks measurements and get the shock that has the nearest closed length to what you measured. DO NOT EXCEED THE MAXIMUM CLOSED LENGTH, or you may bottom the shock out and snap it.

depending on the length of the shock, you may need relocation cones to retain the springs on max droop.

Careful with this approach - sitting on the bumpstops is not full stuff - if the axle is articulated fully (i.e. one wheel at full droop, the other at full stuff) the compressed length of the shock will be less than as you describe.

To answer the original question, I doubt you will be able to fit longer shocks than standard without changing the top shock mounts. The easiest solution is to give Gwyn Lewis a call - he has all the gear available in bite size chunks to suit all bufdgets and knows what he is talking about.

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Careful with this approach - sitting on the bumpstops is not full stuff - if the axle is articulated fully (i.e. one wheel at full droop, the other at full stuff) the compressed length of the shock will be less than as you describe.

Meant to explain my setup better actually, it was half an inch at full articulation, not full bump.

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