SimonV8 Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 Hi all. Ive looked through the forums and got so far, but now Iam stuck and need some advice. Ive got a 2000 defender TD5 110 station wagon. Couple of weeks ago the fuel pump started getting noisey so I ordered a genuine LR pump. Before it arrived the 110 died as I dropped my kids off to football. Got towed home by a friend, couldn't get it too restart, pump still noisey, but I figured the new pump would be the answer. Took the advice and cut a hole in the floor and the pump swap was relativley pain free, now for the first interesting bit, found an old rag in the bottom of the tank, always check the tank!. Anyway, couldn't get it restarted, purged, pumped the lot, pump still noisey though, the new pump!. resorted to the AA and they got it started by using easy start into the turbo inlet. Drove it down to my local specialist to se if he could sort it out. Picked it up this morning, lots of purging etc he had got it running. Drove to work, ran like a dream, I do love my 110. Started it to come home, tickover for a minute then it died, not to restart!, tried damp start which got it going but after a minute or so it died again. Ended up on the back of an AA truck again. now its down at the specialist, but since he could not find an actual problem last time, Iam hoping to tax your brains!. Fuel pump is nice and quiet, but it wont start, anyone ever had a blockage in a fuel pipe moving about?, air leaks in the hoses?, I dont know what to do next? Sorry about the saga story but Iam at my wits end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted January 21, 2011 Share Posted January 21, 2011 check the fuel sedimentor [if fitted] it lives in the right rearwheel arch bolted to outer face of chassis, fuel filter, or it might be a immobiliser/spider unit fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 I had similar problem when changing my pump. For any reason we don't know, there were two hoses sharing color, and we connect them in the wrong way. Also check fuel pump fuse for bad , sometimes it gets hot and fuel pùmp begins to judder. Finally, check the purge valve at the exit of the filter, maybe it's clogged... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K88 MUD Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 check the fuel sedimentor [if fitted] it lives in the right rearwheel arch bolted to outer face of chassis, fuel filter, or it might be a immobiliser/spider unit fault. Not fitted on the td5....the fuel filter is located there and needs changing first....loads of problems with filter housing air leaks and injector seals causing problems....get a pressure test done on the fuel system and let us know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonV8 Posted January 22, 2011 Author Share Posted January 22, 2011 Thanks for the tips guys. The fuel filter was changed at the last service in Spetember, but happy to try replacing it again. It feels like an old Range rover I had that had a blocked fule pick up pipe, would run perfect for a few miles then die, leave a while and it would go a few more miles, bascially using up the fuel in the line. If someone had run it on 'chip fat' type diesel could that be solidify in the cold weather and blocking the hea filter?. Fuel hoses are right way round, checked that, then re checked! Does the system air vent through the filter housing then, or somewhere in the tank? also Ive read I hould have cleaned the tank out completley, but I just had a feel around for anything big? Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil37 Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 Hi we had a td5 where the adjuster for the unit injector had it`s lock nut come loose and fall off resulting in the adjuster winding right off.I supect this had pust some carbon up inside the injector and holding it off its seat loosing pressure may be worth a look. Phil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smo Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 Thanks for the tips guys. The fuel filter was changed at the last service in Spetember, but happy to try replacing it again. It feels like an old Range rover I had that had a blocked fule pick up pipe, would run perfect for a few miles then die, leave a while and it would go a few more miles, bascially using up the fuel in the line. If someone had run it on 'chip fat' type diesel could that be solidify in the cold weather and blocking the hea filter?. Fuel hoses are right way round, checked that, then re checked! Does the system air vent through the filter housing then, or somewhere in the tank? also Ive read I hould have cleaned the tank out completley, but I just had a feel around for anything big? Thanks again There is a seperate vent on the tank, it has a non-return valve on it to keep fuel in when you park upside down. Chip fat, SVO/WVO and TD5's dont mix, if it has ever been run on this then its a good starting point for the problems you are having. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted January 25, 2011 Share Posted January 25, 2011 Been there, done that. Does the fuel-pump make a "gurgling" or 'swishing' sort of noise as well as whining when it's priming? If so I'm betting you have failed copper seals on the injectors. Combustion gases get into the fuel system through the leaky seals - then the engine is trying to run on frothy fuel, which won't inject very well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonV8 Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 Right then the latest news is there is a load of crud and waterery mush in the bottom of the fuel tank apparently the crud is hard but crumbles in your hand. Since I had cut the access panel this is not as bad as it sounds! Figuring out this crud bunged up the filter at the bottom of the pump and the only reason it ran for so long, Ive done 10,000 this last year, is that I never let it go below quarter full, so fuel could get into the top of hte swirl pot in the pump. Anyway going to road test it tomorrow and then I put some miles on it to get my confidence back. Will keep you informed. Thanks to everyone for the help so far. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinhead Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 The crud comes from injector washer failure carbon comes back up and returns to the tank this kills the fuel pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonV8 Posted February 11, 2011 Author Share Posted February 11, 2011 Right then gents, first of all thanks for all the advice. My 110 is back and running, and so far so good. The root of all the trouble seems to have been a load of water that had got into the fuel tank at some point, obviously the diesel sits on top of the water, water cant do anything but go rotten, it turns into some bacteria primeval soup, my new fuel pump was great at moving diesel but not my newly discovered eco system. Apparently seems this happens a lot in fuel oil storage tanks. Anyway back to loving my Landy, but two words of advice Ive learnt and may help anyone with fuel pump chahge on the cards. First I managed the pump change via an acces hole in the floor, worked well especially during the fault finding. Got some pics if anyone wants to cut holes in their landy, carefully!. Second when you change the pump, enpty the tank and clean it out, good chance while you have easy access. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 11, 2011 Share Posted February 11, 2011 it turns into some bacteria primeval soup, know in the aviation world as cladisporium resinae diesel is a very close relation to aviation kerosene fuel Aviation fuel Hydrocarbon utilizing microorganisms, mostly Cladosporium resinae and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, colloquially known as "HUM bugs", are commonly present in jet fuel. They live in the water-fuel interface of the water droplets, form dark black/brown/green, gel-like mats, and cause microbial corrosion to plastic and rubber parts of the aircraft fuel system by consuming them, and to the metal parts by the means of their acidic metabolic products. They are also incorrectly called algae due to their appearance. FSII, which is added to the fuel, acts as a growth retardant for them. There are about 250 kinds of bacteria that can live in jet fuel, but fewer than a dozen are meaningfully harmful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harryesd Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Right then gents, first of all thanks for all the advice. My 110 is back and running, and so far so good. The root of all the trouble seems to have been a load of water that had got into the fuel tank at some point, obviously the diesel sits on top of the water, water cant do anything but go rotten, it turns into some bacteria primeval soup, my new fuel pump was great at moving diesel but not my newly discovered eco system. Apparently seems this happens a lot in fuel oil storage tanks. Anyway back to loving my Landy, but two words of advice Ive learnt and may help anyone with fuel pump chahge on the cards. First I managed the pump change via an acces hole in the floor, worked well especially during the fault finding. Got some pics if anyone wants to cut holes in their landy, carefully!. Second when you change the pump, enpty the tank and clean it out, good chance while you have easy access. Cheers could I have some pictures of the hole you cut in the floor please, regards, harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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