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Keys and Barrels


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Was looking through eBay this evening, as you do, and I saw some locking fuel filler caps for Td5 and it got me thinking.

My 110 is currently a 200Tdi so I have one key for the ignition and one for the doors, but I want to eventually end up with the system in place on later (post-2002) Td5 vehicles. I will be purchasing a later-style rear door which has the updated lock with provision for CDL and also the different barrel, which was to enable the ignition key to be used to open all the doors. I will also need a new filler cap, as these seem to have changed too!

So, with me buying these new parts, which I won't have the right keys for, how do I end up with matching locks all-round?

Land Rover list part numbers for sets of barrels and keys, but do the later barrels fit the earlier doors (or do I have to change the lock mechanisms on those) and are the later rear door lock and fuel cap configured to be able to change the barrels like the older models?

And how do I make them match the ignition switch? As far as I know the switch itself is the same for 200Tdi/Td5, so I was going to keep my old one, then I'd end up with one ignition key and one key for all the doors and the fuel cap. Which I can deal with, as the CDL will remove the need for opening the doors, but it would be nice to have everything, ignition doors and fuel cap, on one key.

Has anyone done it?

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I guess I would then have one key for the ignition, which should also fit all the doors, and one for the fuel filler cap.

I could live with two keys I suppose :lol:

So I guess the question is then...how do I make my ignition key work in all the doors (including the new 2002-on rear door)? Surely the barrels will need changing, but is it possible to order barrels based upon an existing key?

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Our local locksmiths Bolton Lock will match things like that. I imagine other will do also. If you have had a scroat trip and fall against your nearside door so the metal bar in his zip happens to accidentally jam in your passenger door lock and give it a twist, you take a 'new'lock out of a scrapper to them, and they'll match it to your keys, then you just have to swap the lock. If you are going for central locking, why not just do away with external locks on say the normal doors? (you can get blanks used for CSW 2nd row door handles). Then maybe a secure deadlock for the rear, so that is your emergency entry route, and there is nothing for them to stick their bars into.

Nigel

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  • 4 months later...

<SNIP>

So, with me buying these new parts, which I won't have the right keys for, how do I end up with matching locks all-round?

Did you ever manage to work this out?

I'm in a similar position - I've now got central locking on all three doors so I've decided to do away with locks entirely on the front doors because I can use the back door as the 'emergency' entry in the event of problems with the central locking. However, I'd really like to make the key for the ignition the same as the one for the back door. I can buy a set of locks which apparently include the ignition lock, but I can't for the life of me see how you change the lock barrel in the ignition switch/steering column lock assembly.

Is replacing the steering column key barrel in fact possible, or does the kit of keys which includes an ignition lock barrel (e.g. CWB50063, which is described in some places as "Door lock kit, 3 barrels, 2 keys, with ignition lock") actually include the complete steering lock assembly?

Nick.

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Did you ever manage to work this out?

I'm in a similar position - I've now got central locking on all three doors so I've decided to do away with locks entirely on the front doors because I can use the back door as the 'emergency' entry in the event of problems with the central locking. However, I'd really like to make the key for the ignition the same as the one for the back door. I can buy a set of locks which apparently include the ignition lock, but I can't for the life of me see how you change the lock barrel in the ignition switch/steering column lock assembly.

Is replacing the steering column key barrel in fact possible, or does the kit of keys which includes an ignition lock barrel (e.g. CWB50063, which is described in some places as "Door lock kit, 3 barrels, 2 keys, with ignition lock") actually include the complete steering lock assembly?

Nick.

I didn't find a definitive answer I'm afraid no. My plan was the same as yours, I was going to fit the 110 rear handles (with the blanks where the key would go) to the front doors as extra security and just have the rear door as the keyed entry point.

I was going to buy a Td5 ignition key and barrel set and see what turns up, hopefully I'll be able to buy an ignition key set that will come with at least one lock barrel for the rear door.

The trouble is that a lock cylinder for an ignition key is much bigger than a lock cylinder for a door lock. Do new Defenders all work on the same key ?

Mo

Yes Mo, post-2002 Defenders use the bigger key (with more barrels so better security) for the doors as well as the ignition lock :)

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Yes. The part numbers for the handles are different for 02MY onwards vehicles, for example the right hand front door handle is CXB500200PMA rather than the MXC7652 of pre-2002 vehicles. I assume this is to accommodate the longer barrels (also different P/Ns).

Looking on Microcat, under the Barrel and Keys section the ones listed as being for vehicles '2A622424' on (ie. 2002 on) are the new type. Listed are options such as 1 barrel/2 keys, with steering column lock. So hopefully this is the sort of thing I need :)

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My '04 110 has a single key for the ignition, front and rear cargo doors. It has no central locking. Externally the door locks and handles look identical to my old 1991 90 so I assume that they are the same size. I know that changing them is a one screw operation once the handle is on the bench.

There was a different key for the original fuel cap but I lost (OK, left!) the cap at a Spanish fuel station so the keys are now spare. :) I bought a new locking fuel cap from LR who have superseded the Td5 cap with the TDCi one which can have its key removed in the unlock position and used like a regular fuel cap with no locking. This is obviously less secure but also less of a PITA! I can lock it if I have to go up north or to Bristol. :P

HTSH

Chris

Edited: James got his post in while i was thinking about mine...

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Indeed, the door handle itself is externally the same I believe, it's just there is a slightly bigger (deeper) hole for the key barrel due to the use of the longer keys.

Eventually, when I reach that stage, I will buy a post-2002 lock set from Land Rover and hopefully it will include the ignition barrel too (like Microcat implies it does) so i can swap that onto my 1993 steering lock (or buy a Td5 one new if they've changed), then put the other new barrel in the new rear door and bob's your uncle. That way I'll end up with one key for the ignition and the rear door (emergency central locking failure entry point) and one for the fuel cap :)

Of course knowing my luck it will be something completely different, but I can't find any photos of them and I doubt the main dealer will let me order it in just to have a looksie!

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On TD5 key hassle I'm not sure if you've all worked out that you stick the key in, turn it to unlock the cap then turn the key back, remove the key and then unscrew the cap. Then after filling up you replace the cap and screw it tight without further reference to the key. That is how it works on mine, anyway. Or maybe you find that a hassle!

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I'd stay with the existing fuel cap, I really hate the Td5 key in & unscrew type, right pain to remove.

I agree! Look reet silly at the petrol station, even worse when you've got a big bunch of keys on there scratching all the paint :huh:

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I'd stay with the existing fuel cap, I really hate the Td5 key in & unscrew type, right pain to remove.

I agree! Look reet silly at the pump spending 2 mins unscrewing it!

On TD5 key hassle I'm not sure if you've all worked out that you stick the key in, turn it to unlock the cap then turn the key back, remove the key and then unscrew the cap. Then after filling up you replace the cap and screw it tight without further reference to the key. That is how it works on mine, anyway. Or maybe you find that a hassle!

I tried this, mine won't screw off unless the keys in it :blink:

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On TD5 key hassle I'm not sure if you've all worked out that you stick the key in, turn it to unlock the cap then turn the key back, remove the key and then unscrew the cap. Then after filling up you replace the cap and screw it tight without further reference to the key. That is how it works on mine, anyway. Or maybe you find that a hassle!

Yeah know that, but still a PITA = am seriously considering the key in the cup holder option!

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While touring Italy, where attended service at fuel stations is the norm, with my original Td5 fuel cap fitted I was impressed by the ability of pump attendants to remove my fuel cap in one easy movement without resort to the key. No idea how they did it, just experience I guess.

Chris

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, I went ahead and bought CWB500630, and this is what I got in the box:

med_gallery_22916_1189_110209.jpg

The problem now is that the ignition switch does not have a pre-heat position like my old one (from the original 2.5TD engine installation) so I'm going to have to fit a glow plug relay in order to make this work.

Will write it all up properly when I've finished.

Nick.

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Well, I went ahead and bought CWB500630, and this is what I got in the box:

med_gallery_22916_1189_110209.jpg

The problem now is that the ignition switch does not have a pre-heat position like my old one (from the original 2.5TD engine installation) so I'm going to have to fit a glow plug relay in order to make this work.

Will write it all up properly when I've finished.

Nick.

How did much did that little lot cost then?

There is a way of changing the lock barrel in the fuel cap. It did it on mine (300Tdi) when I changed all the door barrels. Trouble was that was more than 10 years ago (door locks need doing again) and I can't remember now how I did it. :unsure:

I think... you have to remove the big metal plate on the back of the fuel cap and then somehow that exposes the inside of the barrel for it to be removed from the housing....

Another thought, on my series 3, the spring in the steering lock has broken so the key won't spring back from the start position - the spring is in the lock not the switch. Replacement series 3 steering locks are silly money but that one you bought looks like it would fit. Anyone know for sure?

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