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tbeagley

P38 diffs.

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I'm not conversant with the details of 'Defenders' (or 90s), but I wonder if the OP means differentials from a 38A Range Rover, or the differential that was fitted to the Salisbury axle (I think) fitted to some heavy duty Defenders.

IIRC these were sometimes called '38A axles', even though the differential was on the right, not the left (as in a true 38A Range Rover).

I feel the OP needs to supply more detail, or be more precise.

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P38 Diffs are either in P38 RRs, or in post 2005 110 Rear Axles, again called P38 diffs and these 2 x are the same.

They are more correctly known as "Short Nose" Diffs, as oppossed to LR Long Nose diffs, which are in Series, 90, 110, 130 discos RRs etc

Salisbury are completely different to both the above, the key being salisbury diffs are built into the casings, as oppossed to LN or SN "Units

just being shoved in and bolted up. The PCD and bolt patterns for SN & LN means they are not interchangable

HTH

Nige

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The PCD and bolt patterns for SN & LN means they are not interchangable

Would this mean though, with some tinkering they could be made to fit, if someone was on a budget diff upgrade? How much out is the PCD/bolt patterns?

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P38 "Ring" with bolts are far bigger than the entry would allow on std axle, yes

it could be made to fit, but would be a significant amount of work, and would have to be accurate too

Better to put a Pegged LN Diff and 4 pin / locker centre in - which would be far stronger than a std 4 pin fitted

P38 Crown Wheels are also not that strong as are thinner than Std LN Diffs

Nige

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Roger, Thanks Nige :)

Probably end up being easier to graft the P38 banjo into the center of an LN axle tube :)

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I'v ebeen told by someone who claims to have done it that the 4 pin P38 diff will fit in a LN case and work with the LN ring/pinion. I have not tried it myself, so cannot confirm or deny.

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Judging by the luck my mate's had with his 110, I wouldn't rate the P38 diff that highly above normal LR ones - it's been back to LR so many times he's lost count. If it's for the back, I'd look at either just uprating the LR diff or sticking a Salisbury under there. Either way, it keeps it nuts-and-bolts for parts.

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