ashtray Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 evening chaps! anyone know if its possible to replace the swivel oil seal by unbolting the swivel from the axle tube with everything still attached to the hubs bar the calliper? Cheers! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew74 Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 Im sure theres a thread on the tech archive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtray Posted February 4, 2011 Author Share Posted February 4, 2011 yeah i had no luck when i looked, could only find information on rebuilding swivels, nothing on changing just the swivel gaitor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sutty_32 Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 Yeah it is possible, much quicker way. You may have to unbolt the swivel pins to help get the old seal out but I'm not sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matthew74 Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 My mistake. I was thinking of the alternate swivel seal thread. I'd be interested to know too as my bro's swivel seals need replacing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 There is a cheat in the tech archive - it involves cutting the seal and leaving the cut at the top with a bit of hylomar. Its one of the links under Les' section IIRC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 4, 2011 Share Posted February 4, 2011 the swivel ball complete with hub/disc/swivel housing/CV & shaft can be removed to change the swivel seal, that's how I did mine, the assembly is piggin' heavy when spliting it from the axle & when aligning it for refit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtray Posted February 4, 2011 Author Share Posted February 4, 2011 Excellent Stuff! If i get time to do it tomorrow i shall let you know how i get on, luckily its the offside so a slightly shorter shaft to pull out from the diff Cheers Everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 Excellent Stuff! If i get time to do it tomorrow i shall let you know how i get on, luckily its the offside so a slightly shorter shaft to pull out from the diff Cheers Everyone! You should consider the 'cutting the seal' cheat in the tech archive - saves a lot of work and appears to be well known and effective. Not done it myself since I decided to replace my balls too, but I did a fair bit of internet research on it and that's the way I would go... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350ypvs Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 the swivel ball complete with hub/disc/swivel housing/CV & shaft can be removed to change the swivel seal, that's how I did mine, the assembly is piggin' heavy when spliting it from the axle & when aligning it for refit. I did both mine this way as i didn't want to cut the seals and yes it is heavy but too bad. gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Jenkins Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 I used the "cutting the seals" method. Worked brilliantly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtray Posted February 5, 2011 Author Share Posted February 5, 2011 Job Complete! Took around two hours to do, at a slow pace, and was quite an easy job (apart from nearly getting a hernia lifting the hub assembly) If i have to replace the seals again this is definately the method i am going to use Cheers everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 well done, bet you need a lie down now, I did say the assembly was heavy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimAttrill Posted February 5, 2011 Share Posted February 5, 2011 I had to lie down for a day or two after doing mine But taking the whole shebang off at one go is the way to go. Doing it as per the LRFM is a waste of time and energy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazymac Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 I was introduced to this remove the whole hub method by a mate and it really is the mutts nuts of easy ways. An extra hint he gave me was to have a standard builders bucket close so as you remove the hub you stick it in the bucket (obviously shaft sticking up!!) which gives a nice stable base to work on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted February 6, 2011 Share Posted February 6, 2011 I was introduced to this remove the whole hub method by a mate and it really is the mutts nuts of easy ways. An extra hint he gave me was to have a standard builders bucket close so as you remove the hub you stick it in the bucket (obviously shaft sticking up!!) which gives a nice stable base to work on! I used the removed wheel/tyre, with the wheel centre facing upwards [the face that normally faces outwards when the wheel is fitted] just located the hub centre & studs in their respective holes & it'll stay put, but don't bash your head/face on the drive-shaft while working on the swivel seal area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashtray Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 yeah i did have trouble trying to rest the assembly on the floor without out it tipping over and consequently messing my floor with cv grease! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGM316 Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 the swivel ball complete with hub/disc/swivel housing/CV & shaft can be removed to change the swivel seal, that's how I did mine, the assembly is piggin' heavy when spliting it from the axle & when aligning it for refit. There is a cheat in the tech archive - it involves cutting the seal and leaving the cut at the top with a bit of hylomar. Its one of the links under Les' section IIRC Mines starting to leak, so might as well fix it while the weathers good.. I'm struggling to find the article in the technical archive, how do you find Les' section? Although filling it with grease could be an option. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Go to the tech archive index: http://forums.lr4x4....?showtopic=4731 (second link down on the normal tech archive page). Les's section is about 2/3 of the way down that page. Having said what i did in the posts above, i did this the other day and used the method that Ralph described - 7(?) bolts, pull the whole hub and halfshaft, rest it in the upturned wheel and remove the old seal and fit the replacement. (it was heavy though!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGM316 Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 Go to the tech archive index: http://forums.lr4x4....?showtopic=4731 (second link down on the normal tech archive page). Les's section is about 2/3 of the way down that page. Having said what i did in the posts above, i did this the other day and used the method that Ralph described - 7(?) bolts, pull the whole hub and halfshaft, rest it in the upturned wheel and remove the old seal and fit the replacement. (it was heavy though!) Thanks Reb, and for the navigation help. I am thinking I liked the method you used, several bolts doesn't sound too bad. I'll happily exchange hassle for weightlifting! Although, I am tempted to try first, the "one shot ?" grease insead of oil, I hadn't realised grease was commonly used, that would be the easier fix! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 No problem. Grease wont stop water getting in and it only 'solves' the leak as it is more viscous when cold. The other issue is that if you have a Railko bush at the top of the swivel, it isnt meant for grease as i dont think it splash lubricates as well as EP90. It also doesnt drain easily if you ever do want to change it because of contamination. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGM316 Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 No problem. Grease wont stop water getting in and it only 'solves' the leak as it is more viscous when cold. The other issue is that if you have a Railko bush at the top of the swivel, it isnt meant for grease as i dont think it splash lubricates as well as EP90. It also doesnt drain easily if you ever do want to change it because of contamination. Thanks, a lot to think about there. I'll look into the bush. I had wondered if this is a good opportunity to strip it down, change swivel and hub seals, change bearings. Maybe over the top, but is it worth changing as much as possible while its apart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted May 30, 2012 Share Posted May 30, 2012 What age is your vehicle. Others will know for sure, but i think pre-300tdi had the bush, after that they had a bearing at the top. Have the swivels got drain plugs - if so, i always thought that these were meant to use EP90. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGM316 Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 What age is your vehicle. Others will know for sure, but i think pre-300tdi had the bush, after that they had a bearing at the top. Have the swivels got drain plugs - if so, i always thought that these were meant to use EP90. Mines a 300tdi. It's 1996. Truthfully if its ok with the one shot, I'll probably try that and see how it goes. Before tackling the rusty bolts.. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danebrewer Posted May 31, 2012 Share Posted May 31, 2012 sorry, maybe I'm being stupid here but a seal is meant to keep stuff OUT as well as IN. so if you go and slice it up, you've buggered it! how many of those folks who cut their seals think anout their swivel oil when they're sitting axle deep in silty water? it's not really a cheat in my opinion, just a good way to wear out your driveline comonents..... do it properly and you'll know it won't be letting anything past the seals, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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