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Clutch plate needs replacing - advice, help or cheap mechanic!?


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I have a 1987 2.5. dt 90 that needs the clutch plate replaced. I understand that it involves either dropping the gear box or removing the engine. Either sounds daunting for a novice like me. The prices I've been quoted sound scary (£600 +)so, I am hoping to either do it myself or, pay someone to do it privately (I'm on the Norfolk/Suffolk border).

1. Has anyone done this job and what tips do you recommend? I notice the Haynes manual suggests that it is easier to remove the engine than drop the gearbox.

2. I'll need to hire a hoist - would a jack be needed as well?

3. And, as I'm buying a clutch plate am I better off getting a clutch kit?

Apologies for the questions, I'm quite new to all this.

Any ideas, offers etc gratefully received.

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Ditto - £307 (inc parts) with small village mechanic in sticks here. :o

Do search on Google for something like this (Link) and sound them out.

They'll sort parts - all be done in a day!

You never know - someone may come along in a mo and suggest a good one round there! :D

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Yep thats what I'd charge for the job, but if you hire a decent crane - you'll need a good reach to get to the centre of the engine and a decent lifting chain/shackles you can do it in a gentle weekend by taking the engine out . And go for the whole clutch kit , Valeo preferred :) .

A jack to steady the gearbox is handy but the std bottle jack will be enough, just make sure the clutch is centred and take your time lining it all up before you try to get it back together

cheers

Steveb

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hi mate

do it your self.buy a complete clutch kit which will cost about £80 to £100 pounds.remove engine. label every thing up you should have it out and back in within a day.remove radiator and radiator panel leaving wings in place.the removal of this panel makes it easy for the engine to come out.remove all the floor from drivers/passenger side this will help you get all the bolts round the gear box.did mine in a day on my drive.if you can get some body willing to lend a hand then do so.if you do get stuck there are plenty of helpfull people on this forum.if its your first major job do it over a weekend.

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I would second the use of a Valeo complete kit and if possible a HD one like I have. Also remember to re-do everything else in there including the clutch fork as once its done you don't want to be back in there for a long time.

If you are attempting it yourself then a good socket set is certainly something you will need and a full bank of the colourful words we associate with seized and stiff land rover bolts

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I found it rather hard to take the gearbox out, i took seats n seatbox out all floors, props off, was hard lifting the gearbox back in, would of been better if id of had 2 long scaffold batterns and tressels then the gearbox could of sat on the batterns while changed the rear seal.. i found it easier to change clutch wen engine was out but id removed radiator and intercooler.. swings and roundabouts should be able to do it in a day if you put ur mind to it, also get a good socket set as said above, also a little breaker bar would come in handy

Also i reccomend borg and beck / Ap

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I'd remove the floor, leave the seatbox in (with seats/cubby removed) then with a sturdy piece of 2x4 across the seat box the gearbox can be suspended with a ratchet strap or two and moved backwards enough to access the clutch. Obviously the props would need to come off, wiring/linkages removed, and the gearbox mounts undone from the chassis, but I would think that an easier option than taking the engine out.

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no need to take the gearbox out of the chassis, remove the gearbox to chassis mounts, disconnect props from transfer box & move the unit rearwards so the front edge of clutch bell housing sits on the gearbox cross member, did mine that way without a engine crane in my driveway. have a look at the 2 threads below.

http://forums.lr4x4....owtopic=5010]as

&

http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=4380]

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no need to take the gearbox out of the chassis, remove the gearbox to chassis mounts, disconnect props from transfer box & move the unit rearwards so the front edge of clutch bell housing sits on the gearbox cross member, did mine that way without a engine crane in my driveway. have a look at the 2 threads below.

http://forums.lr4x4....owtopic=5010]as

&

http://forums.lr4x4....showtopic=4380]

Ralph, can you do that with the overdrive in place or do you need to remove it first? (just wondering for mine)

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Ralph, can you do that with the overdrive in place or do you need to remove it first? (just wondering for mine)

Overdrive has to be removed to allow the gearboxes enough space to move back, the gap at the clutch plate/cover is adequete to remove/fit new clutch parts including the operating arm & release bearing, the overdrives adaptor plate can stay fitted,

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Overdrive has to be removed to allow the gearboxes enough space to move back, the gap at the clutch plate/cover is adequete to remove/fit new clutch parts including the operating arm & release bearing, the overdrives adaptor plate can stay fitted,

I've removed my gearbox with it's underdrive in place (not sure how it compares in size to an overdrive).

There was plenty of space.

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rolacola - I see you are in Suffolk

If you decide that you dont want to do the job yourself then there is a company called Excalibur 4x4 located on the Lion Barn Industrial Estate in Needham market which specialise in Land Rovers. They are really helpful and should give you a decent quote for the job. Even if you dont use them they can sell you the clutch kit you need.

I dont have any connection with them - other than the fact they are local to me and have always been helpful to me

Their number is 01449 721876

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