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Right angled gearbox


Bluemoon
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As the title suggest I'm after a right angle gearbox 1:1, or 1:2, to handle 13hp at about 1500rpm. Here are a few options I've thought of;

1. I was thinking about a small diff from a car( I haven't a clue what reduction they have or what "small" cars have rear diffs)with one side welded.

2. A 2 or 3inch hydraulic hose fixed at both ends, one end to the motor, the other to the shaft

3. 2 18" od wheels set at right angles to each other , one resting on the side wall of the other

anyone with experience of the above or ideas, please don't suggest a gearbox that cost hundreds of pounds,

cheers Brian

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Car diffs tend to be quite a reduction, from around 3 to 6 to 1 on average, however with one side held the other output will run at twice the 'normal' speed, so a 4:1 will act like a 2:1, run the diff backwards (i.e. put the power in through the halfshaft and out the prop flange) and it should work as a 1:2.... I think I am right in this, someone (I hope) will confirm in a minute :)

I've no guarantees on the reliability of the above, as the diff is effectively working in 'coast' mode the whole time, however given the small amount of power/torque you are looking at using it may be OK for a long while.

As for small cars, think Austin A35, Morris Minor, Marina, Chevette, Suzuki SJ's, in fact small 4x4's could be a very good/cheap source. There are also other options, self-contained diffs, like 4 wheel drive road cars, and some rear drive cars like the Rover P6, Jags, Impreza, Audi Quattro's of all flavours (80,90, 100 etc)

Any clues as to what the project is? :)

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well I was thinking about making a bandsaw mill, like the Woodmiser, there are lots people have made on youtube, then I saw the swing mill saw, and started drooling, you have to be into things like that to see what I mean. The problem been , pivoting the power. I have everything else, the diesel engine, saw bade, spindle

Brian

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started drooling, you have to be into things like that to see what I mean.

Yep, wish I'd never asked now :P

Seriously, I used to work in a joinery, loved visiting the 'elephant shed' with the huge band saws in, teeth 1.5" deep...

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A shaft drive motorbike will sometimes have two bevel boxes. The one on the rear wheel is around 3:1 and the one on the gearbox is around 1:1.

How about a grass topper gearbox?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LSM-4-5-6ft-Grass-Topper-Gear-box-L-Shape-/140505060772?pt=UK_BOI_FarmingEquipment_RL&hash=item20b6c115a4

I have a load of logs that could do with being planked.

I was thinking of making a chainsaw mill but the amount of waste wouldn't be worth it. I usually just saw to a size I can fit on my band saw for planking for the time being.

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A shaft drive motorbike will sometimes have two bevel boxes. The one on the rear wheel is around 3:1 and the one on the gearbox is around 1:1.

How about a grass topper gearbox?

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item20b6c115a4

I have a load of logs that could do with being planked.

I was thinking of making a chainsaw mill but the amount of waste wouldn't be worth it. I usually just saw to a size I can fit on my band saw for planking for the time being.

that item on ebay would be perfect, but I didn't what to pay that much, kinda more satisfying when you build some for free, or next to. But as a last resort a good choice.

cheers Brian

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if its for a sawmill why not just go the standard route and use drive belts, either a poly v or v-belt? That would also give you the option of different speeds/torques for different diameter wood and species.

H

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Well on most of the sawmills Ive seen like the mizer the whole saw assembly (engine, gearbox and bandsaw wheels ) go up and down and the tree stays still. Ive used a LT40 and that was belt driven. Can you not rotate the motor so that drive would be inline?

Are you planning on doing this or a different way?

H

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How are you doing this?

Surely in a bandsaw the motor can be axial to the drive wheel and just off set with a belt drive. I'm not knocking your idea, just can't see where the angle drive comes in. Have you got an image or video of what you are trying to do? Might make it easier to come up with suggestions for the gearbox.

This is waht I see as a Woodmizer:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mL6AWnMDL7A

I first thought you were making something like the Peterson mill. The swing head is shown from 3.25 but even then a straight motor drive would do.

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This might be a bit heavy but it is also cheaper.

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...=item3a6392f27f

:D

yes that does look a bit heavy but I haven't enquired , what I'm after is in the second video, where the saws pivots from vertical to horizontal in seconds, , as you have noted the time when it shows the action best, but this will fitted to a diesel motor, I can't see how it can be fixed straight to each other, please explain,

cheers

Brian

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yes that does look a bit heavy but I haven't enquired , what I'm after is in the second video, where the saws pivots from vertical to horizontal in seconds, , as you have noted the time when it shows the action best, but this will fitted to a diesel motor, I can't see how it can be fixed straight to each other, please explain,

cheers

Brian

From what I can see in the videos of all the ones I've looked at the engine is a generator set and the blade is on an electric motor. I think that would be the only way of having an effective swivel.

I can see what you are trying to do now, with the bevel box, so it swivels on the drive shaft axis.

Here is a cheaper way to do this.

Get two bevel boxes from the same type of motorbike and join the driveshafts to each other. Put the blade on the output of one box and teh engine on the other. You then get 1:1 and the blade and engine are on the same axis but off set so you can swivel the blade. If you add UJs on the drive shaft you can then move the engine about to get good clearance.

How about two of these? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YAMAHA-XZ550-XZ-550-BEVEL-BOX-DRIVE-SHAFT-TRANSMISSION-/180207489629?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item29f534125d

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