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What sealer to use on goalpost, and some other areas


willfromsussex
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restoring my 72 RR and have taken the goalpost frame out the back today,

rt-goalpost3.jpg

that sticky sealer stuff, is it butyl? as in, the stuff that comes as a sort of bead, on a roll of greaseproof paper?

This stuff?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BUTYL-SEALANT-STRIP-10MM-X-5M-/320652025847 ?

Do they use this where the sidemembers fit to the bulkhead also? or is that something else?

Do they also use it inner wings to bulkhead or anywhere like that? Or is that body seam sealer, or nothing at all?

Thanks!

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SikaLastomer® 710

Butyl Sealant

SikaLastomer® 710 adheres to a large variety of materials without the use of any primer,including glass, alumininium, wood, metal, rubber, plastics etc.

Areas of Application

SikaLastomer® 710 is a butyl rubber based sealant, for general use in joint sealing. The sealant does not harden therefore permitting if necessary, eventual dismantling of elements joined with SikaLastomer 710

I would use in on the joints between all youre panels

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Anywhere where an aluminum touches steel you require a good thick sealer that will stop the aluminum touching steel. If you don't it will corrode the aluminum. EG roof, and panels touching the inner frame or rear taillight corners touching the rear quarters, etc. Between parts of the inner frame like the rear section, firewall touching the main frame, or parts of the floor you only need a sealer to stop water getting in. The parts will still touch each other where to tighten bolts and squeeze the sealant out, but this is OK for steel to steel.

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Hmm so one would expect plastic washers or something to have been used where the fastners are because the sealant will always squeeze out at the fastners. THe rear quarters, would they have sealant where they go onto the B pillar?

Wonder if that CBF place sells individual tubes of sealer and how much they are?

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Hmm so one would expect plastic washers or something to have been used where the fastners are because the sealant will always squeeze out at the fastners.

They used more like a rubberised tape between the aluminum and steel sections so it did not compress as much as silicon. I think the idea would be to let the silicon go off before tightening the bolts/screws fully and that way it will not squeeze out. A lot of rangie doors corrode in the bottom corners. This is from the steel door frame coming into contact with the aluminum door skins.

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