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TD4 poor performance


Oberon
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I’ve just returned from abroad (work) to continue the saga with the ‘04 plate’ TD4. Previously, I had the lack of power and the Management Light came on at only 3500 revs. Also, the P1260 fault code came on with diagnostic equipment attached to it. Following some good advice from folks on this site (much appreciated, I fitted a new fuel pump (the one behind the OSR wheel arch) and filter. However, being a bit tight at the time, I fitted a non-genuine (cost £60 compared to a genuine LR pump at £200) pump and filter to the car. OK, power has resumed, although not great, and the management light does not come any more but I’m not convinced the problem is completely solved. Incidentally, I replaced the Fuel LP sensor too, but to be honest I don’t think that that hasn’t made much difference.

Although I have no problems starting the car and it ‘ticks over’ nicely, I’ve noticed that the gear change (automatic) is not as smooth and it labours to get to top gear. On a 40 mph road you have to increase speed to 50 then ‘ease up’ and it drops into top gear. I’ve also noticed that the fuel consumption has increased too.

Could it be that the cheaper pump is not sufficient and adequate for the job? Has anybody else had this problem? Could be a case of false economy!!!

Also could it be another problem; HP fuel sensor faulty? I would be obliged for any advice or comments.

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My only thoughts on this would be to replace the pump with the old one- as fuel pumps tend to work or not imho.

Thanks for the thought, but unfortunately the old pump was disposed of a while ago. Not sure if you've replaced a pump before, but it's not exactly a job you want to do in the hope that the old one will start working again. As I said this new pump works and has solved the problem to some extent but it is not as good as before and I have a feeling that this non-Land Rover pump is not good enough for the task. Cheers again.

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I have an 04 reg TD4 auto and think it's a bit gutless compared with my previous manual version but I have always put it down to the higher gearing of an auto (28mph/1000 in 5th). However I am surprised that you can rev it to 3500. Mine hardly ever gets above 2500 without changing down and generally sits around 2000 (and max torque for this engine is at 1750 anyway). As for changing to 5th at 50mph this does sound a bit high, I wonder if it's stuck in sport mode ie high revs perhaps because of your driving style? You are probably aware that the gearbox has several programs, chosen dynamically depending upon recent history (ie combination of speed, throttle position, engine load etc), and it is also programmed to stay in a sport type mode when cold to help warm the gearbox up more quickly. I always override this by driving for the first few miles in tiptronic/ manual. Do you get the same effect after a few miles driving or if you drive it "gently"?

ps don't take this the wrong way but reving it to 3500 sounds more like you are more used to a petrol engine.

pps just a thought but have you checked gearbox oil level? (and be aware of undoing the wrong bolt on this one - big problem)

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Thanks for the advice. I think that I have may have led you to believe that I am a bit heavy on the throttle; this is the reverse in my case. When I mention the high revs I am actually stationary. I very rarely get above 80mph and drive very conservatively, but have lately I have pushed her a bit harder to test the vehicle's performance. I could be wrong, hence the reason I am seeking other opinions, but i believe that the problem is engine not gearbox related. I still am of the opinion that it is a fuel related issue. Following a thread from another fella with a similar porblem who fixed it by exchanging the boost solenoid I am having this changed tomorrow and also having the turbo hoses checked for security and integrity. It might, or might work, but at just over £50 it's worth a go. Then its considering another, this time genuine fuel pump and filter, then failing that changing a fuel HP sensor on the end of the fuel rail. Failing all that, PX for something else.

Cheers for the advice; however when she is on the ramp tomorrow I shall get them to check the gearbox oil level; Ta!!! Mike

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Was the cheap pump Britpart? :ph34r:

No,the pump was from a company in Norwich, won't mention the name, fpr fear of offending and I'm not sure that that is the problem anyway. However, the cost of it with delivery was only £61, so it could be a case of 'pays your money and takes your chance'. Might be something else?? Changing the turbo solenoid tomorrow and checking the hoses to the the Turbo too. Cheers

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Hi there - have you had a good read through this thread.... there's lots of things to check in there.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/td4-lack-power-70mph-fixed-77147.html

Thanks for that Chris, I am looking at this option tomorrow, I have a new solenoid and will replace this and have the hoses checked too. Will let you know. Cheers Mike.

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Well changed the turbo boost solenoid today and, dare I say this, it seems to have worked. Engine runs smoother and the gear change is smooth and manages to get to top gear without having to break the law. I have to change the fuel filter and pump housing as my clumsy attempt (all though a lot of people have had the same experience) broke the plastic housing, The new, genuine, filter is ready in the housing but I am wondering now is it necessary to install a new LR fuel pump. I suppose the funds will dictate that one. Has anybody purchased and fitted a Britpart pump before? They are half the price as LR but I am very wary of replacing parts with non-LR parts now. As an addition, I brought a CR2 chip box from ebay. I fitted it this afternoon after I was convinced that the problem had been solved and hey what a diffence. Have to say the instructions for installation were pants but when I sorted it out I have to say the performance was terrific on the test run. Not sure how it will 'pan out' but so far i'm delighted.

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Are you having to change the whole plastic tray.... mine was a complete mess too - I had to drill out the all the pop-rivets then the clinch nut in the chassis stopped grabbing the nut... took about 3 days to change a fuel filter in the end!! Crazy design. Thankfully I didn't break anything so once I'd cleaned up the brackets, gave them a coat of hammerite, pop-rivetted all back together and put a new clinch nut on the chassis, it was fixed... oh yeah, and I have to buy a new earth tab for the fuel filter..!

I wouldn't worry about changing the fuel pump - the worse that can happen is that it'll stop working... and then you can change it if needs be?

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I wouldn't swap a working LR pump for a britpart one, britpart's reputation is utter sh*te although they do muddy the waters by sometimes accidentally supplying good bits in the same box.

If you buy 4 identical UJ's from them chances are one may be a lovely GKN one and the other three will be fit only for the bin :rolleyes:

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Are you having to change the whole plastic tray.... mine was a complete mess too - I had to drill out the all the pop-rivets then the clinch nut in the chassis stopped grabbing the nut... took about 3 days to change a fuel filter in the end!! Crazy design. Thankfully I didn't break anything so once I'd cleaned up the brackets, gave them a coat of hammerite, pop-rivetted all back together and put a new clinch nut on the chassis, it was fixed... oh yeah, and I have to buy a new earth tab for the fuel filter..!

I wouldn't worry about changing the fuel pump - the worse that can happen is that it'll stop working... and then you can change it if needs be?

Yes, I am going to change the tray in the next couple of days, when I feel up it to be honest. I have a genuine filter now sat in the housing and again I am contemplating replacing the pump with a genuine one. My housing, or platic tray, was broken when I was, forcing is only the verb I can use to describe the procedure, this unipart filter into the original tray. It just wouldn't go in, and yes I too broke the earthing strap. I got the tray from Britpart as LR claimed there wasn't a spare in the UK. Appreciate your comments on the design, I reckon the engineers/designers had been out on their Christmas do or something similiar as no sensible person would design something like that where fairly regular access is required to exchange a service item.

As I have said I think (THINK) the problem has been solved but whilst I have that tray to fit and the money to buy a new LR pump I can't help feeling that it would be better to do it now, than later. I have that small spring clip in the box and I can't for the life of me fathom where it goes and what it does, does it secure the pump or the filter in place? I can't see it being the filter as this one is going nowhere!!!

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  • 3 months later...
  • 11 months later...

I have recently bought a 52plate TD4 (auto) with 68000 miles on the clock, so far very pleased. Power seems to be more than acceptable (for me anyway - I'm a young 67!!) My average mpg at the moment appears to be 36 - better than my younger Mitsubishi Spacestar. Speed of about 50-52 @ 1750rpm.

This is first post on this site - but looks to be good and very friendly.

I'll be back!!

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I too have just bought a td4 of the 52 vintage, well pleased at the moment, pulls the caravan very well, time will tell if its a good one or not but cannot be worse than my previous omega which cost me a fortune every year, glad thats gone.

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I too have just bought a td4 of the 52 vintage, well pleased at the moment, pulls the caravan very well, time will tell if its a good one or not but cannot be worse than my previous omega which cost me a fortune every year, glad thats gone.

Just a few suggestions, check the VCU is OK or has been changed if more than 70,000 miles (assuming the rear drive train has not been removed) make sure the crankcase breather filter has been changed (every 12,000 miles unless fitted with BMW mod) and make sure that the tyres match across axles and newer/larger diameter tyres are fitted to the rear.

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