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P38 EAS validation


Tex Gore
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Aye up,

I'm entirely new to the 'wonderful' world of P38 ownership, and indeed to Land Rover EAS in general. I am wondering whether mine is Ok - so after some validation from those of you who are used to it and know when a vehicle is Ok. Rangerover.net articles suggest operation is normal, but just in case....

  • It does not appear to sit down on its bump stops overnight - but I'm not sure how I tell. The wheels are not right in the wheel arches in the morning?
  • The vehicle always needs to get to ride height (from access height) when I start it, even if it's only been left for a short time (a few minutes)
  • It gets up to ride height in about 30 seconds - but sometimes takes considerably longer (5 minutes) - but this is very occasional
  • The pump comes on frequently when driving - typically when I stop for whatever reason, then usually stops as I pull away but does come on whilst driving
  • It drops into motorway mode fine
  • The pump does not stay on continually
  • When I put it up into offroad mode (either with the button or by putting it into low box) the front passenger corner does not seem to raise up as high as the other corners. In other modes it appears to be the same height.

So what thinks ye? Does this sound about normal? I need to check that front left airspring (it's a RHD vehicle) and intend to give all the springs a check over as well as the pipes just in case, but wondered if this sounds about right or whether I should at very least replace the pump liner and ring etc. The pump is very audible when it's on - is this also normal? Do later pump mounts help noticeably?

Thanks

TG

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If the system is leak free then it shouldn't settle on the bump stops. Have a look under the car and see if the axle is against the bump stops. It will try to level the vehicle when parked. My drive is on a slope so after parking for a while the rear will be up and the front down. It should rise up to the normal position quite quickly, 30 seconds sounds fine. My pump cuts in and out occasionally while driving and I believe that is correct. There must be some problem though if one corner isn't rising the same as the others.

I'm sure an expert will be along shortly!

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No that's useful thanks. In fact I did a proper investigation today and found that the front passenger side airspring had completely perished under the 'fold'. We replaced that and I also serviced the pump with a new seal and cylinder, and now it's a lot happier!

Cheers

TG

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No that's useful thanks. In fact I did a proper investigation today and found that the front passenger side airspring had completely perished under the 'fold'. We replaced that and I also serviced the pump with a new seal and cylinder, and now it's a lot happier!

Cheers

TG

Looks like you handle this exactly as you should, analyse, inspect and replace/rebuild if necessary. :)

Just one thing to add, there is no connection between the transfer box and EAS, so it wont (shouldn't) raise to offroad if you put it in low gear. Are you sure this is what happens? It would be possible to rig it like that, but I don't think it will be as easy as it sounds.

Greetz,

Filip

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You only need to raise it for fording, crossing ditches and meeting slopes, otherwise it's more stable in standard height mode. The steering feel changes in high profile too because of the chaneg on castor angle.

I'd have said pump form the sounds of it too, it shouldindeed turnon an off to stop it overheating, the system will not height adjust during braking but may need to as soon as you stop.

I think you may need to get the sesnors recallibrated. I's an easy (ish) job but you need testbook or rovacom to do it. It's possible that the sensors don't agree on ride height which is why it's adjusting so much and in high profile it thinks it high enough when clearly it isn't.

I fitted Arnott GIII airsping to my RRC LSE and they are brilliant (if expensive) and gained some extra height, so I recallibrated my ride heights with rovacom and my high prifile is plus 1 1/2" front and plus 2" rear, looks like a dragster.

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If the system is leak free then it shouldn't settle on the bump stops.

Not true.

The calibration of the bumpstops can lead to the values for the ride height varying by more

than 2 points. If this happens the ECU sees this as a variation in height and will try to adjust

the stationary vehicle (every 6 hours I think). This can lead to the car lowering itself over

a peiod of time (several days) even though there is no leak.

I had this as I had lifted mine (Arnott Gen III springs) and after about 3 days you could tell it

was lower than standard ride height.

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You only need to raise it for fording, crossing ditches and meeting slopes, otherwise it's more stable in standard height mode. The steering feel changes in high profile too because of the chaneg on castor angle.

With standard airsprings and dampers, you also get better articulation in standard height then in offroad height. Found this out when playing on a twist-off ramp, at max height the lowest wheel reached the end of the damper travel beforde the highest wheel would reach the bumpstop.

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It's strange - I could have sworn that it raised up when I put it in Low Box, however I must have been dreaming as clearly that's not a feature! Since replacing the spring and servicing the pump all is well - however I have found that one of the rear springs looks very similar to the front one I replaced, so that will have to be done next.

TG

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Very true. AFAIK the EAS will also even out ground pressure after you are cross-axled for more than 30 seconds. The ECU assumes you are stuck and adjusts the suspension to give you better grip. I'm not sure if it only does it in high profile though, from where the ECU can access extended mode too if you are high-centred.

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I think you may need to get the sesnors recallibrated. I's an easy (ish) job but you need testbook or rovacom to do it. It's possible that the sensors don't agree on ride height which is why it's adjusting so much and in high profile it thinks it high enough when clearly it isn't.

You can use EAS Unlock, which is free software, and very easy to use. You will need to buy, make or borrow a custom lead to connect your computer to the diagnositic port on the car (standard leads won't work), and if, like most recent computers, it doesn't have a serial port you'll need a USB to serial converter. It will also let you read and reset any faults, so well worth getting sorted out before you have any problems!

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