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Fuel Rail Issue


arthur dent
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Hi There,

I´m trying to get my old lady back to life.

When removing the engine this afternoon, I registered a missing pipe or something at the inward end of the fuelrail-valve.

Got a picture here...

6487686gex.jpg

I think there should be a vacuum-hose. :rolleyes:

Question: Would the engine start without this hose connected?

I am removing the engine, because it won´t start at all.

I fitted a new engine block 1 1/2 years ago and got this symptoms. I left the project abandoned till now. :unsure:

Please help! :blink:

Kris

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Yup, there should be a vacuum pipe from the regulator to the plenum housing - it connects just by the idle air stepper motor on the back of the plenum. The idea is that it adjusts fuel pressure depending on manifold vacuum, so when the vacuum is high (engine load is low) fuel pressure is reduced and when the vacuum is low (engine working hard) fuel pressure is increased, so more fuel goes into the engine with each squirt of the injector (which is time based).

However, the pipe not being connected really shouldn't stop the engine from starting. How does the engine not run - does it turn over, does it try to start, do you get any signs of it firing, are you getting a spark, can you smell petrol at the exhaust?

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Hi Andrew,

the engine doesn´t fire up.

It feels as it will fire any second, but nothing happens.

It turns, there is a spark and when I remove a spark plug after trying to start, it is wet with fuel.

So, I think there is everything it needs, but the vrooom noise is missing ;)

We run a diagnosis of the ECM with a friends Laptop. Nothing to mention.

I am removing the engine to check the timing setup. Maybe I did something wrong.

As I know myself, I just forgot to reconnect a wire :rolleyes:

Cheers!

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Well I double or triple checked the dizzie. In my opinion its okay, I even fitted a brand new one. It made no difference.

I heard about the 180° problem. But I cant´t see the point. :(

Isn´t it obviously if the vacuum-thingie on the dizzie is facing the wrong way?

Or can you mount it "internally" the wrong way round? :huh:

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The idea is that it adjusts fuel pressure depending on manifold vacuum, so when the vacuum is high (engine load is low) fuel pressure is reduced and when the vacuum is low (engine working hard) fuel pressure is increased, so more fuel goes into the engine with each squirt of the injector (which is time based).

Well, ´read in a Bosch book that the idea behind that is to counteract the manifold presser changes like that: with a high vacuum it is easier for the injector to spray fuel into the manifold while at low vacuum there is no extra "sucking effekt" of fuel out of the injector. So when there is a high vacuum, you the pipe "tells" the pressure regulator to reduce the fuel pressure a little bit. That way the injection is predictable over all load conditions.

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@landybehr

Schön dich auch hier zu treffen ;)

Today I reconnected the missing vacuum pipe. But it made absolutely no difference...

All I geht is massive misfire. Partly with impressive flames coming from the exhaust manifold :D

So, I´ve proven that there is a spark and fuel. But not at the right moment.

Can anybody tell me about this 180°-problem?

I tried different dizzie positions, but its not working.

According to the workshop manual I did this:

6498581zdj.jpg

Is that the right position for the rotor at TDC?

(there was a marking at the old dizzie, made by someone else...)

Any ideas, what could be wrong?

I want the car running in may for the ALRC... :rolleyes:

cheers

Kris

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To do the dizzy properly you need to check that it is pointing to No1 when No1 is on TDC. You can't rely on old marks.

Take all the plugs out, and removed the rocker cover on the No1 side.

Using a thumb over the No1 plug hole, find the start of the compression stroke. Turn the engine slowly by hand/spanner whilst feeling for compression. Make sure you're turning it the right way!

Now you've got the start of the compression stroke, put a long thin screwdriver or a pencil or similar down the No1 plug hole. Again turn the engine slowly by hand until you find TDC, the long thin object will rise, then start to fall. You're looking for the highest point in it's travel.

Have a look at where the dizzy is pointing, you may get a surprise!

Now you know where No1 really is, you can either remove the dizzy, and refit it correctly, or move the HT leads round to suit.

After that it's setting the timing once it's running.

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YES!

She is running again!

I did everything wrong with the ignition... :blush:

I took the wrong marking on the crankshaft pulley for TDC. And I did the wiring of the HT-Leads completely wrong...

Don´t know why :angry2:

Thanks for the tip of getting TDC, highway-star! I owe you a drink!

Now I just have to adjust the igntion timing a bit, cause she is choking horribly when I try to accelerate.

But for today I am very glad she is running!

Thanks to all!

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All's well that ends well!

Many moons ago I spent a weekend trying to start my Range Rover, after changing the HT leads. I didn't change them one at a time like a wise and sensible man does, I changed them all together and arranged them as per the manual. Trouble was the dizzy was noI knt fitted as per the manual. Hence why I know how to check for No1 TDC....

I'm older, balder, fatter and wiser now :rolleyes:

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I´m much wiser now :rolleyes:

I think this is a mistake you make only once.

The vacuum pipe is back in place.

I just tried to rev her up a bit. I didn´t drive her, cause there is a little brake problem as well, and the exhaust isn´t connected, so it extremely loud (but sounds great) :huh:

I ordered all the vacuum pipes and breather pipes from Craddock the other day. They are all split, hard or broken.

And a set of new HT leads is on the way, with a fresh ignition coil. And new spark plugs.

I thinks once its all shiny and new and the timing is correct, she´ll run like she´s ment to.

Then I have to do a fair bit of welding.

The ALRC in may is safe, I´ll come with Margaret (that´s her name) :D

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