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Waterproofing a V8...


RoaryV8
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After a great day out over the plains yesterday, i need to look into my 3.9 V8's ignition elecs.

After a few decent puddles it started missing badly sometimes had to stop and oil dizzy etc and would be ok then till the next puddle, then lose 1 or 2 cylinders for about 10 mins....

Anyone got any good solutions that have been tried and tested? was thinking of siliconing the dizzy cap to get a better seal and putting a thin ally splash guard around it??

Would this help much or waste of time?

Leads im going to get some spray sealant or maybe chain wax to put over them to seal them up, but just the dizzy thats causing me the most problems i think.

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Yeah just looked at megasquirt and definatly not an option at that price..

My old 3.5 never seemed to have much problems at all, nothing like what i had on the plains yesterday.

Think a good replacement of all ignition componants, A funny 9 finger glove and maybe a splash guard might help.

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That will help yes, Megajolt is the budget way of doing it, rather than full MS, and works very well ;)

New genuine leads, 'Car Plan Ignition sealer' and a splash guard is about all you can do otherwise, siliconing the cap on just means when you want to take it off you, break everything :rolleyes:

I've seen attempts at getting a V8 water proof without MJ/MS and frankly for all the faffing about with boxes and hoses and glands and silicon I could have fitted MJ and have it reliable from the off!

BTW using WD40 on leads breaks down the factory sealant which is designed to stop water ingress through the boots, this is bad of course!

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I think you will be able to search the topic as it's been covered numerous times on the forum...

You should find advice that will help such as fit genuine Distributor cap and rotor arm etc. Some people actually tried pumping dry air from the cab into the distributor to try and maintain positive pressure and reduce water seeping in and arcing the spark. Others simply used bubble wrap to help deflect spalashes and minimise the effects of condensation. (nice and warm inside Dizzy cap, cold water splash and then you have the potential for condensation inside the cap... )

When I was using a distributor I had genuine parts, good leads and relatively few issues with misfires. But when saturated, like everone else with the original set-up, I had misfires... WD40 is your friend ! :unsure:

Neil

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For the time being think im gonna make a splash guard, and see if that helps while sealing all leads and maybe the dizzy cap too.

Have searched through a lot of topics but some people say something works, others say something else works, some say it dont et etc etc..

So just wondered if any work or at least help out a bit. :)

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Yeah just looked at megasquirt and definatly not an option at that price..

My old 3.5 never seemed to have much problems at all, nothing like what i had on the plains yesterday.

Think a good replacement of all ignition componants, A funny 9 finger glove and maybe a splash guard might help.

I've used a 9 finger and 3 finger (for the coil) with good success for splashing around, usually it is other things that stop it in deep water (like water in the fuel via fuel cap vent)

The kit is like http://www.p38spares.co.uk/commerce/product/1603/V8_Distributor_Waterproofing_kit_-_Universal.html

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As has already been said, condensation is the main problem, assuming your ignition parts are in good nick to start with.

Some kind of guard to stop the cold shower onto the engine bay super-heated dizzy will provide the biggest benefits. I found a cut down 2 litre lemonade bottle was good for this, and secured with a few cable ties.

I also used to spray some aerosol silicon grease over the cap and leads. That did a pretty good job at repelling moisture, but it also attracted all the dirt and made a right old mess. However it did do a good job against splashes.

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The things that make the biggest difference (EDIS aside):

1) Splash guard(s) over the vital bits

2) All genuine ignition components

3) Clean the crud off, check connections & wires, use vaseline on connectors.

I would not put chain lube anywhere near it, it's designed to be very sticky which is going to make things unpleasant under the bonnet.

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my old mini was terrible for misfires when it was wet - stupid design putting the dizzy at the front behind the grill with no radiator to stop rain water getting in!

i made a splash guard out of a coke bottle and sprayed the leads and dizzy and coil with some Fabsil water repellant aerosol (the stuff you use for waterproofing coats and shoes etc) Worked a treat. My reasoning behind using fabsil was that it is safe for rubber, fabrics and metals in coats and shoes - so wouldnt affect anything in the engine bay. Also dried properly so wouldnt attract muck like a grease would.

Any water that got on the leads etc would just instantly bead and fall off.

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Right taken dizzy off cleaned and sealed with silicone, Sprayed all leads with a spray silicone sealant, but was more like spray oil so not sure if thats gonna do anything.

And tomorrow if i get time im gonna try and make up a splash guard for the dizzy.

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All on the same hand or both????

Splash guard, Coke/Lemonade bottle works great,

Seal as best as possible dizzy and screws with Silcone sealer

Silicone GREASE is the trick, its expensive but works and is used in industry for sealing as well,good stuff, put some in your plug caps to, to seal them.

9 fingered gloves are advertised in most of the Landy mags in the small ads.........

Goos luck

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slight issue now after sealing dizzy silicone sprayed all the leads etc its now missing today and wont go even after a 15 min drive....

You know silicone is an insulator, if you've sprayed a load of stuff with it and then expect it to make good electrical contact on re-assembly you may be onto a loser... hence VASELINE, it's used in industry, keeps the whole UK phone network from going to pot every time it rains.

Then again, LR owners and electricty is always a losing battle - wave a dead chicken over it and call a priest.

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I've got a small aluminium plate off of one of the waterpump bolts to stop water getting to the bottom of the distributor and have then cut up an old inner tube and cable tied it over the top of the cap.

I'll try and remember to get a picture later but i'll pre apologise for it being plastered in mud still from when i last went out playing.

I try not to go mad in water as the air filters at the back of the engine bay in a direct line of fire from water coming up between chassis and engine it would seem,

but so far i havent managed to kill it in the wet stuff.

Old bits of car bumpers can make quite good guards over the top

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