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Handbrake adjustment advise requested please


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Hi

Just refurbished the shaft/handbrake by striping down, cleaning, greasing pistons and adjuster bits and replacing shoes.

I was following the manual combined with a step by step provided on another forum.

After a fair bit of hassle getting the shoes on ( bl£$%dy hold off springs!! ) it seemed to be ok although where it say turn the adjuster all the way in then back two clicks this did not allow the drum to rotate and in fact the adjuster had to be backed of quite a bit.

What i did then was to pull up the handbrake 2 clicks and tighten up on the other end of the cable but i seem to have run out of adjustment on the threaded end of the cable as it then takes the lever all the way up to lock the drum which does not seem right.

If i turn the adjuster in 1 click the drum starts to bind on the shoes straight away.

I am pretty sure ( although now starting to second guess myself ) that all parts are in and correct.

I have attached a couple of photos showing the shoes in place and the cable adjuster showing end of travel.

I think looking at the photo that the shoes do not look right but again it may be me seeing something that is not there.!!

Any ideas?

Cheers

Kev

** I did remove the wire holding in the pistons **

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I think your shoes are on the wrong way round - this could make a difference. See Ralphs pic and this thread in the tech archive:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=36215

Also, when tightening up the adjuster before backing off 2 clicks, i think the bolts fastneing the adjuster to the assembly should be loose so the adjuster can centre itself. When the adjuster is tight on the shoes, you tighten up the adjuster bolts, then back off the two clicks.

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I think your shoes are on the wrong way round - this could make a difference. See Ralphs pic and this thread in the tech archive:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=36215

Also, when tightening up the adjuster before backing off 2 clicks, i think the bolts fastneing the adjuster to the assembly should be loose so the adjuster can centre itself. When the adjuster is tight on the shoes, you tighten up the adjuster bolts, then back off the two clicks.

Hi Reb, good spot on the shoes!!!

I did leave the adjuster loose first time around but did not seem to make any difference.

With regards to the shoes, i think you're right and they are 180deg out, :blink: PITA!!!! I was watching that the top shoe had the unpadded section over the piston and the bottom shoe had the unpadded part under the adjuster pin as seen in better photo and per manual.

What I did not notice although i got that bit right was that the pads are still 180 out...bugger. :angry:

i guess it is back in again tomorrow and start again. I may take the complete drum ( front and back ) off this time and assemble on the bench. ;)

At least i am getting pretty quick on the old propshaft in & out etc :D

cheers

Kev

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Hope that sorts it. More common on the rear drums, but they seem to bind if the wrong way round. The springs also look odd to me. I thought they were symetrical in the handbrake drum. They look to be different....if they are new, how do they compare to the old ones?

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Hope that sorts it. The springs also look odd to me. I thought they were symetrical in the handbrake drum. They look to be different....if they are new, how do they compare to the old ones?

they looked identical to old ones and are genuine LR parts. it may be they look odd due to the position of the connecting holes being out of line with the piston body and adjuster body.

I'll take some better photos before and after correcting my cock-up tomorrow :rolleyes:

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Hope that sorts it. More common on the rear drums, but they seem to bind if the wrong way round. The springs also look odd to me. I thought they were symetrical in the handbrake drum. They look to be different....if they are new, how do they compare to the old ones?

Hi Reb

Been under again today and sorted the shoe orientation and it looks a lot better ( see new photo) i layed the shoes out and marked them so no repeat errors!!

The adjuster pin/rod seems to move a lot easier now. :rolleyes:

Still having problems setting the friction though. <_<

i have now been through from drum to lever and found the brake cable ( i have the bottom one of the two shown in the parts diagram attached) seems to be missing the securing nuts at the lever end. Not sure how much influence this will have but i suspect this may be a big factor in not being able to adjust to bind the drum on the 3rd ratchet click!!!

I am currently trying to source just the nuts for the cable but no part numbers for these, i expect they want to sell you whole cable!!! might be worth getting a new one if not too expensive.

Thanks for the input

Rgds

Kev

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I wouldnt worry too much about three clicks, just make sure the movement is not excessive. IIRC mine has about 5 clicks and works fine.

As for the nuts - i replied to your wanted thread as well, but i might have the ones you need off of an old broken cable (if i havent thrown it away - its the kind of thing i'd keep in case it was useful!)

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I wouldnt worry too much about three clicks, just make sure the movement is not excessive. IIRC mine has about 5 clicks and works fine.

As for the nuts - i replied to your wanted thread as well, but i might have the ones you need off of an old broken cable (if i havent thrown it away - its the kind of thing i'd keep in case it was useful!)

Cheers Reb

I thought the 3 clicks bit was to do with mot!! :unsure:

I think i may also be missing the reinforcing plate where the handbrake lever bolts to the seat base!! I may post some photos and see if anyone can tell!!

If you find the nuts in the next few days just give me a PM, if not i may end up just getting a new cable with the X-Brake ...finances pending :rolleyes:

Rgds

Kev

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