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Emergency towing


godzilla
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In my previous topic, ' battery change 'I explained how my alarm system was locked up, I would now like to know if I can

tow on 4 wheels without selecting transfer neutral, as I cannot do this with no electric, transfering the vehicle 100km.

on a lorry will cost almost what it's worth here in France, the french do no like big petrol engined,right hand drive,

English plated machines, if I can tow, what distance is the max ??

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Take the propshafts off.

+1 Either dropping the prop shafts or loading it onto a truck/trailer you haven't much choice......I just love the French...They still have difficulty in accepting their irrelevancy in the natural order of the world:-)

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+1 Either dropping the prop shafts or loading it onto a truck/trailer you haven't much choice......I just love the French...They still have difficulty in accepting their irrelevancy in the natural order of the world:-)

I know naff-all about P38's but a thought occurs - if you tow it 'dead' what are you going to do about stopping the thing?

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In my previous topic, ' battery change 'I explained how my alarm system was locked up, I would now like to know if I can

tow on 4 wheels without selecting transfer neutral, as I cannot do this with no electric, transfering the vehicle 100km.

on a lorry will cost almost what it's worth here in France, the french do no like big petrol engined,right hand drive,

English plated machines, if I can tow, what distance is the max ??

This might help, if you have a battery with some charge in connected to vehicle as normal you can try putting gear lever to neutral then a 5A (or higher) fuse into the becm (under seat) fuse box, Fuse 11 which selects N manually just for this purpose.

You should have transfer neutral on your display. Not sure if it works with alarm system in your state but worth a go.

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Even without engine running or power, the front brakes will work but will obviously require more force and be less effective. The rears wont work at all, as they are fed only by the electrical brake booster. So you do have some stopping power, but I wouldn't want to rely on it during a 100km trip that will no doubt encompass higher speeds as well.

Reading through your other post, I fail to see why you don't have electrics to put the transfer box in neutral. :unsure:

Using jump leads should be enough, or if for some reason you can't get the BECM to work, you could always put a 12V supply directly on the wires to the transfer motor.

But even with the transfer box in neutral, I'm not sure it will take kindly to such a long tow...

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After driving an RRC, which uses a very similar braking setup to the P38, after an ABS pump/accumulator failure, to say the front brakes will work is..... being very generous, and also dangerous. This is of course assuming the P38 brake failure syptoms is the same as an RRC...

Wiring a car battery directly to the pump would overcome this problem however :)

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After driving an RRC, which uses a very similar braking setup to the P38, after an ABS pump/accumulator failure, to say the front brakes will work is..... being very generous, and also dangerous. This is of course assuming the P38 brake failure syptoms is the same as an RRC...

Wiring a car battery directly to the pump would overcome this problem however :)

There is a big difference between the brake setup on the (late) RRC and P38a: the RRC has 2 seperate systems going to each front caliper, one purely powered, one combined powered/hydrostatic. So if the power supply isn't operating (i.e. pump not running), you can only operate on about half power.

On the P38a, powered and hydrostatic systems are fully combined on the front, while the rear only has the powered system.

In theory, you should be avle to use the front brakes to their full capacity, provided you can apply sufficient force to the brake pedal. I have driven a P38a with a broken pump, it wasn't a relaxing drive (the autobox didn't help), but I wouldn't call it dangerous.

As said, towing it for 100km like that is a totally different thing!

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Ah, useful info!

I would say on the RRC it was down to about 20% of the powered force.. it really really took legs like the Hulk to pull up, and hills was handbrake time!

Apart from the force required to push the brake pedal, I felt reasonably comfortable in the P38a without the booster. Never driven a RRC without power assisted brakes, but have some experience with a protoracer on 40" with a failed brake booster, and that could get scary at times. :ph34r:

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To answer the original question, the T-Box and auto box both have pumps driven form the input (engine0 side and in Neutral the pump will not be circulating. 100km could be far enough to do damage so droppin g the props would be best form that point of view. However you will have no handbrake and given the comments baout the effectiveness of the fotbrake thast may not be safe.

If you need to tow a RR and don't have the electrics for the brakes I'd suugest running a wire from the 12S socket on the towbar if fitted. The red wires should be able to supply 16 amps whci could be wired into the fuesbox to supply the ABS or into the battery for radio, brakes etc. and lights, turn signals etc.

I have no idea what the law in france is regaridng towing that distance however,in the Uk you will be on the fringes of the law.

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Apart from the force required to push the brake pedal, I felt reasonably comfortable in the P38a without the booster. Never driven a RRC without power assisted brakes, but have some experience with a protoracer on 40" with a failed brake booster, and that could get scary at times. :ph34r:

Meh, it was doable when my engine cut out due to lack of food... Going down a hill, headed for a roudabout, with no powered brakes or steering. It did require a bit of the old lead foot though :ph34r:

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Never driven a RRC without power assisted brakes, but have some experience with a protoracer on 40" with a failed brake booster, and that could get scary at times. :ph34r:

Take my advice & don't :o Only ever did it once whilst under tow, never again!

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