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Are stainless brake pistons really worth the money


Gromit

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I finally got around to changing all the brake pads on my 05 defender. (Not soon enough as one of the disks was scored from one pad being down to the metal :angry: )

The rears were ok, but the fronts were a bit of a pig, particularly getting the inboard pistons pushed back. I noticed that they were pitted and I had to work them in and out a few times to get them fully back. In the process, I popped one of the seals :angry:

Anyway, it's all back together and I'm deciding what to do. I need a new disk anyway, or the current one skimmed if it can be.

So, 6 years old and the pistons are pitted and need to be sorted. :( Do stainless pistons really last much longer? I ask because it's much-of-a-muchness buying 8 pistons, seal kits and time off the road vs just buying new calipers (with steel pistons obviously) if they are going to last about the same amount of time FFS :huh::lol:

Your experiences please

[edited to add]

If they are worth the money, could you recommend an online supplier.

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I have the same issues with my 110, only on the rear.

Generally, I have found that the chrome surface is what fails, and then allows corrosion to start on the side of the piston. If you are doing a reasonable amount off road, this happens a lot quicker. Stainless doesnt suffer with this as it is the material that is corrosion proof, rather than the thin easily damaged surface layer...

I would consider them worth it, and as such I just bought a complete set of stainless pistons from Autopost (via eBlag) and they seem to be very good - they were delivered very quickly certainly! If you do decide to replace the callipers, they were also very good pricewise for OE ones... (I actually bought 2 new rear callipers as well as the pistons, and will be putting the stainless pistons into the new callipers.... :huh:)

hth

Mark

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I've got a set in Blue and they are better, BUT putting them into callipers that are shot is a bit of a waste. Beter to fit them into sound callipers before the problem arrises.

I too hate fitting rubbers to Lr callipers, I've never been 100% successful so I don't bother. Either I leave the steel ring in the housing and fit both rubbers at once or I give in and fit new callipers.

In short yes!

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Thanks for the feedback guys. Yes, planning on keeping the truck (just as I was planning on keeping the last truck but ... :( )

I'd hope that I can still use the existing calipers. The truck is now pulling as the pads bed in. I'm assuming that the scored disk is providing less braking force.

So stainless pistons it is then. :) Just need to figure how to do without the truck while I change them. :rolleyes:

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I got my set from zeus engineering about 4 years ago and they've not given me any grief at all since fitted and my trucks been dunked in the mud and big puddles without any problems with the calipers well worth the time and effort and expense to do them

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So stainless pistons it is then. :) Just need to figure how to do without the truck while I change them. :rolleyes:

Just an idea, could you not get yourself a second hand pair of calipers and overhaul them with the new pistons. Then it'll be just a case of swapping them over - less down time for your truck. Plus you'll have a set of spare (kanackered?) calipers!

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I hope so, I just bought a set for the CSK from Zeus to fit as part of the rebuild ;)

I got my set from zeus engineering about 4 years ago and they've not given me any grief at all since fitted and my trucks been dunked in the mud and big puddles without any problems with the calipers well worth the time and effort and expense to do them

Well I was going to suggest Zeus too. They manufacture vast quantities of stainless pistons and brake parts in general for London taxis, and have a long established reputation for them.

I fitted genuine pistons and seals to my Ninety, errr so many years ago I can't remember. Can't recall it being difficult to do. They were still OK last time I looked. Off road use or otherwise, regular cleaning (jet wash) will prolong their life enormously - in fact I think my off-roader sees the jet wash far more often than my road-going RRC.

I do remember at one time (10+ years ago) there being a supply of stainless pistons that allowed fluid to leak past the seals! The opinion was that the cylindrically ground outer surface acted like a very fine thread and the fluid slowly crept round and round until it joined the atmosphere. Typically this gave stainless pistons a bad name at that time.

My feeling is that the surface would have had to have been pretty coarse for this to happen.

Generally I would say the stainless option has to be a good idea, especially if the prices are far from the standard option.

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I do remember at one time (10+ years ago) there being a supply of stainless pistons that allowed fluid to leak past the seals! The opinion was that the cylindrically ground outer surface acted like a very fine thread and the fluid slowly crept round and round until it joined the atmosphere. Typically this gave stainless pistons a bad name at that time.

My feeling is that the surface would have had to have been pretty coarse for this to happen.

As a machinist by trade, I'd have to dispute this, on the basis that the steel ones are ground too, so why should they be any different?

There should be no difficulties experienced with stainless pistons at all, not even from a reaction point as its all inert in that area. The best bet is by far to get yourself a spare set of callipers and rebuild them on the bench, so that swap over time is minimal.

I would like to add, that when you do so, cleaniess really is right up there at the front. If you leave any specs of grit in the bores, you'll still knacker the seals and possible score the stainless.

Also, highly recommend you order the new mounting bolts before you start too...

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Interestingly, the piston does not touch the caliper,but only the seals. So the caliper doesn't actually wear out. I fitted s/s pistons in 2002 and they are fine ever since, despite quite a rough surface on them.

Daan

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