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Seeing as this thread is techy, and I have been asked by a load of people about a wheel, here is mine - ie to a V8 sizes and how to fit etc

:

WHEEL :

TriggerWheelMedium.jpg

FITTING :

Set V8 to TDC marks

Remove V8 Pulley

On pulley CAREFULLY prise off the dust shield (Rear of Pulley), .....

then Remove the dome shaped spacer (next in from the rear) - then throw it away !

(if you want the trigger wheel to be a couple of mill away from pulley place the ring in a lathe and cit out the centre as a big washer,

then fit between pulley and ring)

Undo the 6 bolts holding the pulley together, and buy some more..... 6mm longer !

Clean up the face that is now exposed on the pulley where the wheel is going to sit, and fit wheel loosely.

Pop 2 or 3 small bits of blue tack in between pulley and wheel

Slide Pulley back onto engine, making sure TDC still 100%

FROM the rear looking outwards, move the teeth on the wheel so that wherever you have the VR Sensor mounted the

CENTRE of the sensor is Lined up with the 5th tooth AFTER the spaced one, ie

Line up the spaced tooth with the sensor (whereever your mounting it) then GO ANTI-CLOCKWISE looking from the back of the pulley towards the front of the engine - Count 5 teeth, and on the centre of the 5th thats the one you want centre of the tooth. - level with the centee of the VR Sensor

Squeze the blue tack, also paint some tippex on the tooth and pulley as a line up

Remove CLAMP in vice and drill through the 6 holes with a sharp 8mm or 10mm drill they vary between pulleys

Bolt up (remove blue tack !)

Replace dust cover

Job Done, if the timing is not 10 degrees exactly make the VR sensor adjustable on a slot to take up minor adjustment

Nige

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'Job Done, if the timing is not 10 degrees exactly make the VR sensor adjustable on a slot to take up minor adjustment'

Nige, for my Racer i actually did it the other way round. I mounted the VR sensor rigidly with NO movement possible.

I then had the trigger wheel (supplied originally by triggerwheels.com) machined with slots so that i could rotate the trigger wheel relative to the VR sensor.

It takes slightly longer to set up but in my view provides a superior arrangement for a racer.............. i know this is opposite to what every body else does but i have my views.....

Nev

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'Job Done, if the timing is not 10 degrees exactly make the VR sensor adjustable on a slot to take up minor adjustment'

Nige, for my Racer i actually did it the other way round. I mounted the VR sensor rigidly with NO movement possible.

I then had the trigger wheel (supplied originally by triggerwheels.com) machined with slots so that i could rotate the trigger wheel relative to the VR sensor.

It takes slightly longer to set up but in my view provides a superior arrangement for a racer.............. i know this is opposite to what every body else does but i have my views.....

Nev

I can see the merit of that on a vehicle that gets shaken around as much as your racer - I would think the wheel is a lot easier to clamp up so it won't come loose.

I've had no trouble with the adjustable sensor bracket on my Range Rover, but that doesn't lead quite such a hard life!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, I have my trigger wheel done.

I bought a 165mm dia (6.5") with a 12mm hole. (Bigger than HFH's but it does go)

Had to lathe out the centre to 68mm, and i skimmed the outer a bit as the laser cut was a bit rough.

IMG_0150%20(Small).JPG

IMG_0152%20(Small).JPG

IMG_0155%20(Small).JPG

I had to mod the TDC marker thingy with a dremel, just taking about 5mm off in an arc to clear the wheel.

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Thats going to be really tight on the ali front cover casing - have to had a test fit ?

Thats why I ended up having to make a smaller one, you might be opk, but It will be very close :huh: if it is ok ?

Nige

Test fit? - its on and running :)

Nope, nowhere near the casing - do we have different motors?

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oh boooo-lacks - I've put the missing tooth on the wrong side of the sensor!

I didnt see the small print on the diagram saying 'viewed from behind' :)

Oh well time to make some more holes. At least the crank bolt wont be stuck this time, so the rad can stay in.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok, all is running fine with the EDIS. dead pleased with that move.

So, now phase 2 - EFI manifold & megasquirt.

One question i couldnt seem to answer on the MS website or forums - How do i arrange the injector banks?

MS has 2 bank outputs.

Which cylinders are wired together?

I know i have heard it's not important, but there must be an optimal/recommended arrangement...

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Ok, all is running fine with the EDIS. dead pleased with that move.

So, now phase 2 - EFI manifold & megasquirt.

One question i couldnt seem to answer on the MS website or forums - How do i arrange the injector banks?

MS has 2 bank outputs.

Which cylinders are wired together?

I know i have heard it's not important, but there must be an optimal/recommended arrangement...

So far as I know the injectors are wired together for each bank of cylinders (so 1,3,5,7 and 2,4,6,8 fire together) if you use the existing loom and firing pattern from the Hotwire ECU.

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The Lucas fires left bank/right bank IIRC, the reason to fire alternately is to even out pressure fluctuations in the fuel rail as you only fire half at a time.

To be honest it doesn't matter as the fuel rail is joined right round in a circle, unless you want to get into some fluid dynamics then just wire them as you see fit - left bank/right bank or perhaps every other injector round in a circle. If you're worried about it (and you'd have to be more anal than Astro Al to worry about it) then set it to four squirts per cycle instead of two to even it out even more.

Firing order has nowt to do with anything, read the FAQ about sequential Vs batch injection and you'll see why it really doesn't matter.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Phil,

I have a couple ready made spare but can make to whatever spec you want, here are the spares:

long_tail.jpg

short_tail.jpg

£30 posted for the short ~30cm one (which is probably all you need), £35 for the long ~1m one - they are high grade connectors and solid metal backshells, the wiring colours match the diagram further up the thread. I can also supply the RS bead thermistors at cost at the same time, I think they're a whopping £1.28 + VAT and replace the IAT sensor you lose when you ditch the Lucas AFM.

Hi Fridgefreezer,

I have sent you a pm regarding the above.

Thanks Phil Watson

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where are people taking the MAP hose from?

I am getting no vacuum from the little nipple on the top of the throttle body. (no its not blocked, i can blow an airline through it) although it does seem to be shut when the throttle is fully shut, presume thats intentional.

I can get a vac from the port where the 9th injector used to be, but is that ok?

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Anywhere that gets the full vacuum in the plenum is fine, here's my solution:

push_fit_connex.jpg

That nipple on the throttle should give you vacuum but it's not very good due to turbulence aparrently :huh:

Edit: You can also tee into the vac hose for the fuel pressure regulator on the back of the plenum, in fact if you disconnect the over-run shutoff switch you can use the vacuum feed from that.

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Anywhere that gets the full vacuum in the plenum is fine, here's my solution:

That nipple on the throttle should give you vacuum but it's not very good due to turbulence aparrently :huh:

nope, zilch vac from nipple.

I assumed that nipple connected directly into throttle body...

I have a slightly modified breather scheme beacuse of LPG, you get better ilde if you take breather hoses off before mixer. so the two normal breather inlets onthe T body are blocked. wonder if those connect to nipple?

anyway, i will just take it off 9th injector hole.

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Rog,

MegaSquirt DOES - it's the Ford EDIS module that doesn't. There are two different approaches:

1- Ford EDIS module which drives coils, senses the trigger wheel etc. this is a standalone ignition system that just needs the main ECU (in our case the MS) to tell it what to set the timing at. If it gets no signal it goes into limp home mode and fixes the timing at 10deg BTDC

2- 100% MegaSquirt using the Extra code & added driver chips (VB921's), the MegaSquirt decodes the trigger wheel and fires coils itself. The trigger wheel can be a different number of teeth and offset by any amount. My cousin is using this on his Bimma with a 60-2 stock wheel which he hasn't (or can't) move from its standard timing.

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