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MegaSquirt / MicroSquirt/ MegaJolt and V1, V2, V3 and MS-II


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I would not be happy with moving the bearing lower down as the shaft is taking quite a load.

If you strip an engine down and want to prime the oil system you use a tool and an electric drill to drive the oil pump. You need a strong drill and have to hang on lest it gets away from you.

I finished mine off with the lid of a pump action toothpaste tube. Bonded it in place with PU sealant.

Steve

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Thanks, I see your point with the load on the shaft. I've trimmed another dizzy less extensively and will use that instead. Just need to find that toothpaste tube then :-) Does is matter which way the housing is turned/rotated when dropping it back into the timing cover, as there is only one oil hole in the dizzy housing ? Is that tiny oil hole the only way the shaft is lubricated, by the way ?

/Peter

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Mine as a comparision / another version on a theme :

post-22-1237329433_thumb.jpgpost-22-1237329449_thumb.jpg

Rog - Istruggle2gate11 Cut me off a Dizzy , I assembled / disassembled and then I turned up a

base plate with external thread etc on it (Tig'd on by a grown up to the dizzy :) )

and then at the same time I also made a screw cap for it with an internal thread and O ring in the other

and a knurlled outside for added bling :lol: ...so when dogged up 100% waterproofed :)

Nige

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Thanks, I see your point with the load on the shaft. I've trimmed another dizzy less extensively and will use that instead. Just need to find that toothpaste tube then :-) Does is matter which way the housing is turned/rotated when dropping it back into the timing cover, as there is only one oil hole in the dizzy housing ? Is that tiny oil hole the only way the shaft is lubricated, by the way ?

/Peter

Yes the oil hole is the lube for the shaft.

As it is in a recess it will get oil from anywhere around the diameter so makes no difference where it ends up when you drop it in.

Steve

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Just a quick daft question that's probably lost in the wealth of info under the Megasquirt threads,

If the water temp sender fails and goes open circuit, then I presume the program thinks it's excessively cold and richens up to some ridiculous amount of fuelling, but why wont the air inlet temp adjust it back, or am I on the wrong train of thought ?

Problem is I've just transplanted and rewired the megasquirt and it's running almightly rich so either temp senders gone u/s which could be a coincidence or wrong wire, wire bells out ok, but it will be monday now before I can get another on to prove either way,

Last daft question does the temp sensor earth itself or does the second pin need earthing somewhere ?, its a standard Rover EFi one, I think I've just solved own problem here.

Also at the moment when it runs it will not re start afterwards, but does start loverly first time when cold .

Thanks lads.

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Just a quick daft question that's probably lost in the wealth of info under the Megasquirt threads,

If the water temp sender fails and goes open circuit, then I presume the program thinks it's excessively cold and richens up to some ridiculous amount of fuelling, but why wont the air inlet temp adjust it back, or am I on the wrong train of thought ?

Problem is I've just transplanted and rewired the megasquirt and it's running almightly rich so either temp senders gone u/s which could be a coincidence or wrong wire, wire bells out ok, but it will be monday now before I can get another on to prove either way,

Last daft question does the temp sensor earth itself or does the second pin need earthing somewhere ?, its a standard Rover EFi one, I think I've just solved own problem here.

Also at the moment when it runs it will not re start afterwards, but does start loverly first time when cold .

Thanks lads.

The two pin sensor does not earth through the body so will need an earth.

If you run Megatune connected to MS you should be able to see the coolant temp either by changing one of the gauges or running 'Realtime display' or calling up any of the options in 'Other Tuning.

Steve

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The second pin needs earthing, so yes you've answered your own question. The Air temp correction will not cancel out a faulty sensor unless that failed in the opposite manner and caused enough correction to be applied to swing it back the other way :lol:

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Blonde moment over, out this morning grounded spare red/black wire after belling it out and hey presto the gauge on megatune shot up to 14*C and it's back to normal, sorry boys but like we said "you've answered your own question".

What I did on the transplant was to minimise the loom and improve as best as I could to tidy things right up, it's a good job I kept a couple back I was a bit suspicious of.

What is an average Kpa reading for a newish (re bored about 50 hours ago) high comp biggish V8 ticking over at about 1100prm, yes I know thats a bit high but there is no power steering pump connected, I've just converted to electric water pump so no pulley anymore, and only one alternator at the moment, plus it's an auto in neutral.

Thanks again lads

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  • 5 weeks later...

my Megajolt installation is (slowly) progressing, will be needing an ignition map file for the MJ soon. Would someone be kind enough to email me a working map for an RR 3.9 EFI 14 CUX (new standard cam, no mods) ? Not sure if my mail address shows up in here, but pls mail to peter AT maigaard DOT com.

/Peter

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  • 3 months later...

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