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Steering Lock Stop Bolt Adjustment


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I want to adjust my steering lock stop bolts on my 87 90.......

I have a go/compete in trials at the moment and want to increase the steering lock

So how do you do this .................

Looked at the bolt it seems to have a tube spacer ........ is it a simple case of undoing the bolt cutting the spacer to a shorter lenght ? if so what the shortest lenght I have 235 x 85 tyres on modular wheels so offset is'nt that much of a problem I think!

I see the manual specifies different lenghts what's the shortest lenght I could go or is it simpler to remove the spacer and replace with a nut (half nut if neccesary) for easy adjustment

I of course do not want to over cook it and risk blowing a standard CV ............. so whats the best option

Cheers

For any replies

Steve

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get some new set screws mine are 75mm IIRC high tensile(not that it matters that much)

I can take some pics tomorow

put them in and adjust till the tyres are close to the Radius arms but not touching.

and take care when using full lock or the CV will fail.

I have mine adjusted for BFGs

Simex still rub the arms though.

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just wind the stop in or out to prevent the opposite tyre fouling on the radius arm,

it's not a spacer but a stepped bolt,

there is no cutting needed.

for tyre size 7.50x16 set the stop bolt to 54mm from the face of the head to the insde [brake disc] side of the swivel housing,

any other tyres set to 51mm,

if swivel gaiters are fitted set to 56mm to avoid straining/ripping the gaiter material.

:i-m_so_happy:

Edited by western
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On a 300Tdi axle, there is a lock nut on the stop bolt. Dunno if earlier models are the same. Think the bolt is UNC or UNF, seemed to remember that series 3 door top nuts for the attachment studs were the same thread.... Anyway, slacken lock nut, then wind bolt in or out. With steering on full lock, adjust bolt so that tyre is just clear of and doesn't rub on front radius arm. As said above no cutting required, unless the bolt is seized... :D

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Simon thanks for that

I will have to make further investigations

I hate these unc fine threaded bolts they are a pig to undo when corroded much prefer metric 8.8 bolts but then I would I'm in structural engineering

Cheers

Steve

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  • 11 years later...

I seem to have the same issue as the original poster, their does seem to be soacers stopping me winding the stopper bolts in any further. With the wheel spacers I now have about 2 inches still to go befor the tyres touch the radius arms but no more "do-eey up on the bolts, when I have moor time I will take them off, clean up amd look again.

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There are various styles knocking about. A shoulder bolt type with a large head, and standard M12 set screws. If the former type won’t go in far enough for what you need then change them to a pair of set screws. However watch your CVs as above.

Some vehicles also had a little ‘seat’ on the swivel ball flange for the lock bolt to strike against, though many (mine included) just come up against the flange itself.

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My 1998 110 seems to be the latter too, when I have the time amd a nice day I will take one out and have a proper look, the lock is definitely better, now I am gping to have to investigate these plus 50mm bolt on arches to arrest the extra mud that bounces up the sides!

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