V8 Freak Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 I've not had much time to do more than essentials on the 110 lately.... Found time to service the winch and replace all the nasty water infested grease with one-shot.. Hopefully all sealed up now. Changed engine and gearbox oil etc... Today I got stuck into sorting out my switches and wiring on my centre dash. I've had fans, spots, heated front screen wired in for some time, but decided on an update and installed Carling switches. This is as the dash looked when first installed several years ago. How it looks now.... Lights on... Switches live... The switches are great quality and once you get your head around the wiring, it's fairly easy going. Just thought I'd share.. Maybe this will inspire some others out there to envigorate their dash!! Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulN Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 Looks great - as you say it's not so much the fittings on the dash but the logic and spaghetti behind that impedes the motivation!! Nice job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kobold Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 Looks certainly very neat! I've installed the same console in my wife's '85 90, but I still have no purpose found for the opening which has in your case a battery meter. Instead of indicating the proper working of the alternator it monitors the condition of the battery, am I correct? I agree that makes more sense than a rev-counter in a 2.25 petrol.... Gonna find one myself though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 Nice job Neil! Instead of indicating the proper working of the alternator it monitors the condition of the battery, am I correct? Well, he’s installed a voltmeter, which usually is installed to indicate the system voltage – if it’s 14.4v with the engine running you can be reasonably confident the alternator is charging, if it’s 12.5v with the ignition on you can be reasonably confident the battery is holding charge. That isn’t always the case but it gives a simple check. It’s also possible to install an ammeter which will show the current flow and direction i.e. to or from the battery and how much. This gives useful indication of what the alternator is outputting and what your loads are drawing, and whether the battery will be seeing a net gain or a net drain. You can of course install both but assuming your battery, starting and charging system and its wiring is healthy (and really the system is quite simple on an ’85 Landie). I would have thought both gauges are overkill for regular* users…Saying that you do have a lovely mud dash to fill with Switchgear and gauges… :-D *As opposed to, say, overlanders who need to keep any eye on their batteries Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kobold Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 In that case it does the same as the alternator meter in the dash, only fancier... I guess the installation of an Amps-meter would indeed be more useful. The thing is, there is a hole in the dash, and I'm looking for a functional analog meter, or something else useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 Durite (PDF catalogue) sell some good value gauges that don't look too out of place in a Landie, or VDO make some nice ones... Beware of Ebay-bought cheap gauges that look 'bling' and are designed for boy-racers for installation into their Saxos/Novas/etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 In that case it does the same as the alternator meter in the dash, only fancier... I guess the installation of an Amps-meter would indeed be more useful. The thing is, there is a hole in the dash, and I'm looking for a functional analog meter, or something else useful. not worth trying to fit a ammeter to a alternator fitted vehicle, the cables would be huge 7 the gauge of little use, a voltmeter is much more useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 not worth trying to fit a ammeter to a alternator fitted vehicle, the cables would be huge D'oh! You're quite correct Ralph - apologies, serves me right for trying to reply quickly before I left the office. Both the gauges in my links are of the direct connect variety, but of course for an alternator driven vehicle you want a gauge with an external shunt, or one with an inductive pickup coil, such as p/n 0-525-01 in the Durite catalogue. As I stated, probably overkill if you’re anything other than an overlander who wants to keep an eye on their current draw when in the middle of the bush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstoddar Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Very nice, And as it happens exactly what I am about to embark on with my 1986 90. Unfortunately I have no real experience and the previous owner seems to have taken a hatchet to the wiring to install a fancy stereo and amplifier (I know, in a landrover!!!!). Any top tips regarding the wiring or is it just a case of take your time and attempt to understand the wiring diagrams? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UdderlyOffroad Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 the previous owner seems to have taken a hatchet to the wiring to install a fancy stereo and amplifier (I know, in a landrover!!!!).Any top tips regarding the wiring or is it just a case of take your time and attempt to understand the wiring diagrams? I had this too, and although it seemed daunting at first, by the time I'd removed the appallingly fitted stereo wiring, as well as the bodge-job alarm, worklight that would make its own mind up about whether it should be on or not, etc, I was left with a much simpler loom. Take heart, study the various diagrams, remove the bodge-job wiring, repair where necessary using the correct size and colour of cable. That or get over to Autosparks and stump up for a replacement loom... Extra toys (worklights, spots, etc) can most easily be added by using a separate fusebox in the battery compartment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kobold Posted May 21, 2011 Share Posted May 21, 2011 The wiring loom I found fantastical simple, the great idea is what isn't there can't break down! The add-ons which are build in professionally mostly make sense too but there are very much self proclaimed electric engineers who come up with dodgy improvised solutions Till now I haven't decided what will fill up the gap in the dash, SWIMBO (because it's HER 90)came up with a solution: a nautical compass, it makes at least more sense to her than a Amps meter (which doesn't tell her anything) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jstoddar Posted May 21, 2011 Share Posted May 21, 2011 I had this too, and although it seemed daunting at first, by the time I'd removed the appallingly fitted stereo wiring, as well as the bodge-job alarm, worklight that would make its own mind up about whether it should be on or not, etc, I was left with a much simpler loom. Take heart, study the various diagrams, remove the bodge-job wiring, repair where necessary using the correct size and colour of cable. That or get over to Autosparks and stump up for a replacement loom... Extra toys (worklights, spots, etc) can most easily be added by using a separate fusebox in the battery compartment. Thanks, glad I'm not alone, plan to start over the next week or so, might even create a new topic with Pics/Progress. Got in touch with Autosparks but they said the dash loom is all part of the main one and that's £200+ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 21, 2011 Share Posted May 21, 2011 Thanks, glad I'm not alone, plan to start over the next week or so, might even create a new topic with Pics/Progress. Got in touch with Autosparks but they said the dash loom is all part of the main one and that's £200+ correct, it's a big job to change, did it on my 110 a few years ago after a bit of a meltdown, took me best part of 2 weeks from start to finish, having to fit it around normal job didn't help much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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