Haulie Posted May 15, 2011 Share Posted May 15, 2011 Hi I am new here. I have purchased a series 3 with a 200tdi and 5 speed conversion. The steering is too heavy for swmbo she cant manover it to move it if parked in her way in driveway. My question is what steering box to fit. Any pictures of previous conversions would be great. Thanks Haulie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted May 16, 2011 Share Posted May 16, 2011 The search button is your friend. Use it. This has been covered on here about a million times. Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 Welcome along! I'll second what Jon said - it's been covered a fair few times, either search or look in the technical archive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haulie Posted May 17, 2011 Author Share Posted May 17, 2011 I had looked I just wanted to know if there was a definitive list of parts to use. Is there any steering box that mounts on the outside of the chassis leg. Thanks Haulie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 RHD P38 box or a LHD box from a Defender, RRC or DI or II. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 RHD P38 box or a LHD box from a Defender, RRC or DI or II. Nick, You just added a twist to the normal posts here, LHD steering box??? Wouldn't it be too big and bulky to mount on the outside of the frame on a RHD vehicle? Have you seen this done before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 17, 2011 Share Posted May 17, 2011 I'm not sure what you gain by mounting it on the outside - you still have to tube the chassis for the bolts to go through so you'll still end up cutting the front x-member about, but you may not be able to just stick all standard LR bits on as the column/shaft will be going to a different-ish place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haulie Posted May 18, 2011 Author Share Posted May 18, 2011 Have people used the RR steering damper in this conversion. I haven't seen this mentioned in posts Haulie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 I didn't bother with a damper on mine, and I used to have one when it was non-PAS. Even running 37" tyres I've not found any need for one yet. I don't know what others have done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 18, 2011 Share Posted May 18, 2011 Nick, You just added a twist to the normal posts here, LHD steering box??? Wouldn't it be too big and bulky to mount on the outside of the frame on a RHD vehicle? Have you seen this done before? I haven't seen it done, but I can't see why it wouldn't work. It would need offset wheels to create enough space when turning left (likewise, a RHD unit on a LHD vehicle would have wheel cleance issue when turning right with standard wheels). I think the 8-spoke I currently have on my 109 would sort it out, or 30mm spacers might do the trick. I'm not sure about the clearance between the bottom of the output shaft and the swivel housing/axle case joint flange on full articulation, but that would be the same with a p38 unit and presumably the same with the Saginaw and Toyota conversion popular in the US. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 I haven't seen it done, but I can't see why it wouldn't work. It would need offset wheels to create enough space when turning left (likewise, a RHD unit on a LHD vehicle would have wheel cleance issue when turning right with standard wheels). I think the 8-spoke I currently have on my 109 would sort it out, or 30mm spacers might do the trick. I'm not sure about the clearance between the bottom of the output shaft and the swivel housing/axle case joint flange on full articulation, but that would be the same with a p38 unit and presumably the same with the Saginaw and Toyota conversion popular in the US. I was going to do a p38a conversion. I welded tubes to the top rail of the chassis, and was going to do the same for the bottom rail. Two location strips on the side of the chassis would have made the job very solid. In the end I had to sell the chassis, due to a change of plans. There is a sweet spot where the box doesn't foul the tyre, and the drop arm doesn't interfere with the axle. All that is then necessary is a UJ conversion to the steering column. And, of course, a pump etc. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Some pictures I kept: Looking back on it, I suspect I'd have to make the mountings stronger, if it was going to last. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Looking back on it, I suspect I'd have to make the mountings stronger, if it was going to last. G. I'm no engineer, but I think the mountings would have been strong enough. The condition of the chassis rail in that area would have been my concern, but I assume you'd have repaired it prior to fully fitting the steering system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 I'm no engineer, but I think the mountings would have been strong enough. The condition of the chassis rail in that area would have been my concern, but I assume you'd have repaired it prior to fully fitting the steering system. Oh, yes! It would have been properly fixed! Anyway, not my problem anymore. I had to sell it as I'm moving to the UK. It is an old Irish Army chassis and it would have been wrong to let the Registration expire. Oh, and Irish Army vehicles have civilian registrations, just in case you are wondering. Does anyone have a unwanted 2a SW 109 chassis in good condition that they don't need? Gloucestershire? And a shed I could rent? G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 You can't rent Gloucestershire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmeanie Posted May 19, 2011 Share Posted May 19, 2011 Putting the steering box on the outside of the chassis works well. This is a Saginaw off a Scout II grafted onto a NADA 109 LHD of course. As you can see most of the bulk sits on top of the chassis rail and the pitman arm sits in front of the axle enough so that it wouldn't be an issue with the diff on a RHD. I have 1 tonne rims with 235/85R16s on stock axles and I pushed them up down and all around through the normal range of motion and there has been no interference issues. I've since changed to a flatter priman arm off a disco 1 but it has not afected clearance. Putting the steerign box on the outside of the chassis rail usually requires custom steering bars - these are Series Trek made out of DOM tubing and very, very strong. Sorry about the big piccies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 20, 2011 Share Posted May 20, 2011 The P38 box would be the one to go for in the UK - it gives lighter steering than the Adwest type and is reputedly tougher and far more reliable. If you want to keep the unit inboard of the chassis rails, you could fit RHD vehicles with LHD boxes and vice-versa... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmeanie Posted May 22, 2011 Share Posted May 22, 2011 Indeed the P38 is the more available box in the UK so that is just common sense unless you want to chase down a Toyota one for some reason. I was merely showing that a box can be mounted to the outside of the chassis without impacting steering or suspension travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 Indeed the P38 is the more available box in the UK so that is just common sense unless you want to chase down a Toyota one for some reason. I was merely showing that a box can be mounted to the outside of the chassis without impacting steering or suspension travel. Don't worry - I realise that; I was referring to the comment that going the "standard" route of using the 4-bolt Adwest type from a Defender or RRC would be better. I have had two Adwest units fail on my RRC, though the second was a recon unit which was probably botched and so isn't entirely Adwest's fault, but the Defender/RRC/Discovery I units are notorious for leaks and failures while the P38 units (Bosch, I think) seem to go on forever without issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 zf not bosch................ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 zf not bosch................ Ah yes, that's right - I remembered it was a German manufacturer that already supplied other assemblies for LR (just the auto boxes, not the fuel systems)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 24, 2011 Share Posted May 24, 2011 D2 boxes are also stronger, mount the "normal" way, mine's adwest and has been fine running 37's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 In consultation with Richards before ordering my 109 chassis, they advised that they offer a service to cater for this senario. What they do is...fit a Stage 1 V8 front crossmember, which already had this type of steering. So my 109 has a slightly odd looking front crossmember, which will be hidden by the valence panel anyway, 4 tubes in the chassis to accept standard LR defender steering boxes, and also more clearance for getting in the TDi radiator, slightly lower than in my military chassis'd 109, where I struggled to get the expansion tank high enough. Worth remembering if you're planning a chassis swap on a 109. Cant see the point of PAS on an 88 though, my wife can manage ours no prob, its our daily drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted June 15, 2011 Share Posted June 15, 2011 ive been toffing the idea up for a while as my land rover is a daily drive. buut for the work, im not sure if it would be worth it i run modulars on 23575 tyres with a small soft metro/mini steering wheel, and while my arms have definateky grown since i put the steering wheel on its fine. i consider it cos it would be nice to have but is it essential? i guess its just a case of what you want. there are a few threads on it and it would be useful to do and would only take a day or so to do but the cost of the pump and box etc put me off a bit? also on a 200TDI 88" with an overdrive, higher geared diffs, parabolics, loads of soundproofing and comfy seats, would it add any value to have? my other modifications werent to add value, but to make it a perfect daily driver for me, for towing, long distiance journeys and fuel economy. plus the chav beating side of it. i may consider it if it adds a bit of value because i dont have much if any disposable income at the minuts. for now im living with it as it only bothers me a bit when pushing trailers about on the front bumper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moore101 Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 Richards chassis are currently making me a lightweight chassis with the powersteering mod done. My other landrover is effectively a swb stage 1 which has had the standard relay mounting brackets off and the rail drilled and sleeved for a PAS box and is how I was going to do the powersteering conversion on the lightweight. When richards told me thats exactly how they do it I couldn't believe my luck and thought it'd be daft to not let them do the work for me! As for whether it's an essential mod or not. If the vehicle is just used on road then I don't think it is unless it was used for a high amount of tight city driving. As I trial mine I feel it's justifiable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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