paulsfj Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 Hi all Can you help I have a TD4 ES year 2000 with 101,236 miles the problem im haveing is im only getting about 20 mpg and i think i should be getting around 35-40 can any one help Please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted June 16, 2011 Share Posted June 16, 2011 Yes there is something wrong with your vehicle as assuming you have a manual (you don't say) you should be getting over 35MPG in any conditions (apart from off-roading or heavy towing). My wife's 2006 TD4 never goes on the motorway and is only used for commuting but still returns 38-39MPG. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 I've had my 2001 model a couple of months now. It hadn't been serviced for a while, but had not done much mileage since the last one. For the first two tanks of diesel, I got 31 & 32 mpg - both tanks included mainly commuting driving (about 6 miles each way) and a couple of longer motorway journeys. I then did the service, changing the oil, oil filter, air filter (which was in terrible condition), fuel filter, and crankcase breather filter (didn't look like it had ever been changed). - the last tank full got me just over 38 mpg (commuter driving, travelling from Southampton to South Wales, and driving around the Seven Sisters off-road site). Doing a service would be a good starting point, especially the crankcase breather which may provide the added benefit of your engine not blowing up! There are a bunch of other threads regarding MPG and performance and the various things you can check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 35 here, driven relatively sensibly, ~30 if not, got it down to ~25ish when towing a laden box-trailer. My driving style is a bit different to Ryan's so he gets better numbers As Ryan said - service it, if that doesn't do it then check: - Turbo VNT actuator (is it moving) / vacuum hose to valve (my hose was leaking = no boost) - EGR valve & actuator & vacuum hose to valve (mine was stuck open, I jammed it shut & plugged the vacuum feed, you don't need EGR and you don't need to spend £60 on a blanking thingy from eBay) - Airflow meter (does it make a difference if you unplug it?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJF Posted June 21, 2011 Share Posted June 21, 2011 I got 32mpg last tank. This is on a TD4 auto and it is getting towards service time. Rob. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulsfj Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 Thanks for your replys the car gets seviesd when needid all fillters can you tell me ware the egr is and the Turbo VNT actuator sorry about this but any help will be most appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Starter for 10 - the rest is in the RAVE manual, free download, pinned at the top of the part numbers forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJF Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 I'll second getting the RAVE manual. Very, very useful. EGR is easy to get at. Right at the front of the engine. Remove the short elbow pipe feeding air into it and prepare to find a lot of gunge in there. Whilst in that area, check all the boost hoses for splits or softening. My EGR elbow pipe had colapsed and was restricting flow. I also changed the other intercooler pipe as it was starting to wear through. I think it was under twenty quid for both genuine parts. The VNT actuator is at the lower rear of the engine, best accessed from underneath. The easy way to see if it is working or not is to see if the car will do 70mph up hill (where allowed of course). If it feels like it is struggling or cutting out it could be the VNT mechanism is stuck. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulsfj Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 Hi All ok i have cleand the egr witch was full off muck,it wasent open it closed but when i took it off i cant seem to find ware the little pipe gos to ?? will this matter as im going to block it any way ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJF Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 The small pipe goes to a solenoid valve below the egr. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulsfj Posted July 11, 2011 Author Share Posted July 11, 2011 Hi all I think i have buggerd it up, i dont have any power now,i took the egr off and cleaned it witch was all ok put back on all ok, but i can't seem to get the pipe to solinoid back on could this be the problem ?????????????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulsfj Posted July 12, 2011 Author Share Posted July 12, 2011 Please Please can any one Help with my problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickcc Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 Doubt if leaving the small vacuum pipe off would cause your problem as some people leave this pipe off to stop the EGR valve from operating (cheaper than fitting the EGR bypass). Find the small vacuum pipe and just plug the open end, if your problem is still present you may need some more help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KENNETH BATTY Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 On 16/06/2011 at 5:25 PM, paulsfj said: Hi all Can you help I have a TD4 ES year 2000 with 101,236 miles the problem im haveing is im only getting about 20 mpg and i think i should be getting around 35-40 can any one help Please I have a 2005 auto which is returning 30 around town my last tank worked out at 18 p per mile approx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilkyWilkie Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 Since I didn't necrothead this one - I've got an 07 auto, and my last tank netted me 46.7mpg, which was a pleasant surprise, especially as I'm still trying to convince the mrs to let me keep it and losing 20mpg from my 1.6 tdci ford wasn't helping my case.... Of little help to OP as he probably fixed his problem 6 years ago, but there's three things that I found have made a real difference to mpg. Since this is currently high up the post list hopefully this will help someone! Sit at 60 on the motorway. I drive from Devon to London 2-3 times a week. I always sat at 80 in the ford. Even the extra urban cycle is averaged at 75. Dropping to 60 (hell even sitting at 55 beyond a lorry if you're not in a hurry) makes a massive difference, as its not an aerodynamic car and it takes a lot of energy to keep at it 4/5ths of its top speed. It adds about 5-10 minutes tops on my 4 hour drive... Tyre pressures - it was only a few mpg difference but every little helps, check them cold and make sure they're correct. Plan ahead. Don't sit up the chuff of the car in front. Hang back, loom well ahead, and react to things early so you can gently ease on and off rather than mashing the brakes and the throttle like you're dogfighting the Red Baron. Plus you Won't be causing a tailback a mile down the road as the car sat up your chuff has to jump on his brakes and so on and so on until someone's had to come to a halt. peace out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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