ROGUE TROOPER Posted July 20, 2006 Share Posted July 20, 2006 So there is still no spark. Multimeter across -ve and +ve sides of the coil was 5.5ohms Bulb across -ve of the coil and +ve side of the battery was on/off/on/off etc (means amp is working switching off thus producing a spark and coul is working) when turning the engine over. Multimeter across -ve side of coil and HT output blew my multimeter up!! So I would guess it works!! Still no spark. Changed dizzy and coil.........still mo spark! What else could it be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted July 20, 2006 Share Posted July 20, 2006 pull the output lead off from the coil to the dizzy and see if it arcs, if it does then that partially takes that out of the equation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted July 20, 2006 Share Posted July 20, 2006 can you knock up a spark test rig? U shape in wood with a couple of nails in it, meters get zapped pretty easily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon White Posted July 20, 2006 Share Posted July 20, 2006 Duff king lead, dizzy cap or rotor? Tried pulling the king lead off the dizzy and checking for a spark from the end of that? Jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted July 20, 2006 Share Posted July 20, 2006 PM Me your E-mail addy............. Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02GF74 Posted July 20, 2006 Share Posted July 20, 2006 Multimeter across -ve and +ve sides of the coil was 5.5ohmsBulb across -ve of the coil and +ve side of the battery was on/off/on/off etc (means amp is working switching off thus producing a spark and coul is working) when turning the engine over. Multimeter across -ve side of coil and HT output blew my multimeter up!! So I would guess it works!! Still no spark. Changed dizzy and coil.........still mo spark! What else could it be? if you discconect all leads to the LT of the coil, then resistance should be 3 ohm for 12 V coil, 1.5 for one for use with ballast resistor. this seems a bit high but then depends on the multimeter - we're not talking a big difference plus inaccuracy at the low end of the range is nothingto worry about yet. do you know if you have ballast resistor - this is switched in once you stop cranking the engine over; if this is bad, then there is no power going to the coil (amp?) when running. Also if you disconnect ampt, connect 12 V to + of coil, then remove the 12 V (beware of spark at LT side) - like what the points would do you should see spark across HT side. that'll show bad coil but since you have tried 2 coils, then unlikley but it is still fun in case you get an electric shock. one last test. you'v change dizzy - i..e removed from engine but wired up, put ignition key in normal driving positjkon and turn the dizzy by hand - you should see sparks and you can measure voltage too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted July 20, 2006 Share Posted July 20, 2006 When ever I have a poor spark its old components. leads,plugs ,cap and rotory. or operator fiddling which has lead to the starting problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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