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Its all very strange....


ROGUE TROOPER
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So there is still no spark.

Multimeter across -ve and +ve sides of the coil was 5.5ohms

Bulb across -ve of the coil and +ve side of the battery was on/off/on/off etc (means amp is working switching off thus producing a spark and coul is working) when turning the engine over.

Multimeter across -ve side of coil and HT output blew my multimeter up!! So I would guess it works!!

Still no spark.

Changed dizzy and coil.........still mo spark!

What else could it be?

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Multimeter across -ve and +ve sides of the coil was 5.5ohms

Bulb across -ve of the coil and +ve side of the battery was on/off/on/off etc (means amp is working switching off thus producing a spark and coul is working) when turning the engine over.

Multimeter across -ve side of coil and HT output blew my multimeter up!! So I would guess it works!!

Still no spark.

Changed dizzy and coil.........still mo spark!

What else could it be?

if you discconect all leads to the LT of the coil, then resistance should be 3 ohm for 12 V coil, 1.5 for one for use with ballast resistor. this seems a bit high but then depends on the multimeter - we're not talking a big difference plus inaccuracy at the low end of the range is nothingto worry about yet.

do you know if you have ballast resistor - this is switched in once you stop cranking the engine over; if this is bad, then there is no power going to the coil (amp?) when running.

Also if you disconnect ampt, connect 12 V to + of coil, then remove the 12 V (beware of spark at LT side) - like what the points would do you should see spark across HT side. that'll show bad coil but since you have tried 2 coils, then unlikley but it is still fun in case you get an electric shock.

one last test. you'v change dizzy - i..e removed from engine but wired up, put ignition key in normal driving positjkon and turn the dizzy by hand - you should see sparks and you can measure voltage too.

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