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Brake light comes on when I brake


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Hi,

I have just had a go at replacing my bearings and put everything back together and found that when I brake, the brake light comes on... It will go off again if I dab the brakes.

Obviously I have had the drum apart while doing the bearings so it is something to do with the way I have adjusted the shoes but I can't work out why it would be making the light come on.

What should I be looking for here?

thanks,

EDIT: this is only when moving and then braking. If it is stationary it does happen.

Also, my brake fluid level was low so have topped up. I'm starting to think that the drum needs to be adjusted so it is tighter and that the shoes have been backed off too far from the drum and there is too much travel.

Time for lunch and another go.

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found that when I brake, the brake light comes on... It will go off again if I dab the brakes.

Also, my brake fluid level was low so have topped up.

The brake warning light is connected to the float switch in the brake reservoir lid.

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You are referring to the brake warning light on the dash I'm guessing?

It would be a strange coincidence I would say for the brake warning light to show after the work you describe. Even if the drums were badly adjusted you wouldn't empty enough fluid from the reservoir to make the level low. You would find insufficient pedal travel first. AFAIK there are no 'low pad' indicators on drum braked systems.

I would suspect the level indicator unit in the reservoir cap. Is rather mucky? Is something causing it to jam in a low fluid position?

One other thought - I recall the dual circuit brakes on my series had a shuttle device that closed off one circuit if it lost pressure, and I think there was a warning circuit linked to this. Does you 110 have anything like this installed?

Do your brakes feel like they are working correctly when you've tested them?

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Ok. Sorted.

After having some brain food and time to dry (don't you just love British Summers, it's July FFS) I went back out and tested again.

The brakes were spongy and ineffective and there was far too much pedal travel so I opened out the shoes by adjusting them clockwise and then felt very carefully for the 2 notches back on the cam which are very faint and very easy to miss, infact I wouldn't call them notches, more a slight feeling. This time no warning light, the pedal felt stiff and it stopped proper quick.

So, after hours out in the rain what have I achieved today? Well I didn't get my bearings replaced as I found that I was missing the inner seal and now need to order some in. But I have learnt how to get the hub out, how to get the drum off and how to adjust them so not a total waste of a day eh.

Thanks for your replies and help. Appreciated as always.

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  • 10 months later...

I am high-jacking this thread with a similar problem.

I have a defender 90 with v8. When I drive like a maniac properly, slamming the accelerator until 6000rpm, only to discover there is not a lot of space between me and the car in front, hitting the brakes, I get a red warning brake light? Could it be my car giving me the middle finger saying hello ? Any ideas? The fluid level is checked ok.

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The brake warning light is connected to the float switch in the brake reservoir lid.

Just for completeness, not all trucks have the float and switch mechnism. In my 110, this light is connected to the PDWA valve and comes on if it detects disproportionate braking via the valve sensor - essentially if there is a leak on part of the circuit. I had it come on under heavy braking and solved it when i replaced a leaking rear brake cylinder (it was only a slight weep as well).

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