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109 CSW Roll cage / sill bars build thread


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OK, thank you for that, from the picture of FF's 109 it looks like there is loads of clearance from the wheel box's, seeing your red lines then yes the bends would be far too high, I'd imagined them being about 5" lower than that. I can relate to customers wants conflicting with how you would do it if you had your way, but remember they are always right.....

I had appreciated how close you had got it to the body work and how long it probably took, unfortunately for you we are all aware of your standards, so while anyone else would get praise, its just what we expect from you :lol:

Tubes are nice and shiny what are they?

Oh! and diesel in FF's truck, who'd of believed that!

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Dan, questions for you? Regarding your main hoop, why does everyone put an extra bend in the hoop, the ones nearest the floor are the one's I mean,

This is to sort out the mess he has made, its the last chance to get the abortion aiming properly at the chassis rails, he missed out up to then

:rofl:

Loverley job so far Mr D, ...but slacking on the work output per day, on an hourly rate are we :P ?

Nige

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Wouldn't it be better to have the cross en in the lower bends, taking away the possibility of crushing there?

Note: not an engineer, I'm just wondering.

A lot of people do that but, i don't like to as it loads the cage up with more stress rather than allowing it to dissipate through the chassis mounts, also the blue book states that the diagonal must be no more than 100mm from the base of the hoop.

I can relate to customers wants conflicting with how you would do it if you had your way, but remember they are always right.....

The customer is almost never right, i just try to manage their expectations ;)

Tubes are nice and shiny what are they?

strongbox 235

Loverley job so far Mr D, ...but slacking on the work output per day, on an hourly rate are we :P ?

It's alright for you retired folks. :P

I am envious of the time i used to be able to spend in the workshop, but,

Unfortunately i've got a "proper" job now that keeps me too busy, that and a young family doesn't leave that much time for projects. which incidentally this is one of 3 that are ongoing presently. The rear hoop was done in a weekday night start at 7.30 end at 10.30.

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if i have more artistic freedom :ph34r:;) I'd put a h/d crossmember in the chassis and land the rear hoop on it inside the chassis rails.

I always knew you were some sort of artist :P

If you can get an x-member in under there with all of the other bits going on then I would be more than happy. It's a bit tight as the exhaust, anti-wrap, fuel tank and PTO (which isn't fitted yet) all want a bit of space.

Is the spare wheel OK to stay on the wheelbox in the back, I thought there was a risk of never being able to get it out once the rear stays went in? You're allowed artistic freedom to stick it somewhere else if you want ;)

Oh! and diesel in FF's truck, who'd of believed that!

It has its uses - domestic heating, washing parts, powering generators, that sort of thing. Saves the petrol for proper uses like propelling vehicles.

The customer is almost never right, i just try to manage their expectations ;)

I'm definitely never right, ask my other half :ph34r:

To answer Daan's question about the rear stays taking up valuable space - wherever they go they're a bit of a compromise, as Dan says the rear hoop is doing the serious work in this cage so it wants to be strong. At the moment I have a spare wheel + 2 batteries on one side and a diesel tank the other (plus tools and eventually hydraulic tank) which occupy the side space, and I'm quite happy to have the stays separating the sides from the "main" load area just to keep things from moving about.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

A little more progress made, exhaust remounted (on the way to making rear hoop mounts :rolleyes: )

155971998_photobucket_28625_.jpg

155971998_photobucket_28626_.jpg

I've had to compromise on the rear hoops location, i'd have liked it about 5" further forward, but the shock mounts and the alpine lights mean it's happier where i've put it.

155971998_photobucket_28628_.jpg

155971998_photobucket_28624_.jpg

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  • 5 weeks later...

Looking good indeed, just spoken to Dan to work out a few more wrinkles, the rear corner looks like going this sort of way:

Land Rover 90 Roll Cage With Rear Protection 1.JPG

http://www.lrsoffroad.co.uk/node/155

But without the lower bar / rear corner upright to keep it clean - plus it's not really doing a lot as the tyres keep the bottom off of things and the roof bars will keep the top off.

Roof crosses seem like a worthwhile idea to add strength, but to avoid adding too much up high they'll be done in narrower tube (~30mm).

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Would it work putting in the crosses as tensioned wire?

Imagine if it rolled at speed and the impact caused a wire or it's mounting to snap. It would be like a wire winch cable snapping .... but in a confined space.... :blink:

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just tack weld it as that should save some weight.. :P

My reply was meant seriously, a single rigid bar forming two triangles is still very strong, making a cross is stronger, but may be unnecessary (i.e. it exceeds the strength of the rest of the cage) depending on the size.

Of course I am sure FF and DD have a better handle on this and have taken everything into account already ;)

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