karlos01 Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 well the pump only works with a tickle of the flap. there is a nice spark, 11.5v on the -ve of the coils. crank it over and it drops to 8v with a bit of variance. 12v at the injectors, pump works, spark works, injectors dont. would the ecu be buggered? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosecon Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 well the pump only works with a tickle of the flap. there is a nice spark, 11.5v on the -ve of the coils. crank it over and it drops to 8v with a bit of variance. 12v at the injectors, pump works, spark works, injectors dont. would the ecu be buggered? What about the resistor pack for the injectors? Give it a check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 I'd double check you've attached all the earths from the ECU properly, since the ECU grounds the injectors to fire them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 There is a really good step by step manual for fault finding the EFI system in the technical section on here. Found it really useful when I had the EFI. Do you have access to an oscilloscope? If so might be worth putting it on pin1 of the ECU to check that that signal is working then on the injectors to see what they are trying to do. I have one here (assuming it still works, its pretty old!) but don't know where you are? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlos01 Posted August 3, 2011 Author Share Posted August 3, 2011 right im going to check as much as poss. the main relays and steering relay etc. should the voltage actually be 6 - 9v from the coil packs or is 8v acceptable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 3, 2011 Share Posted August 3, 2011 should the voltage actually be 6 - 9v from the coil packs or is 8v acceptable? As long as it drops and waggles about a bit that's pretty much all a normal multimeter can tell you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlos01 Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 after last night i caved and fitted some carbs at least until a hotwire injection set up comes about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 4, 2011 Share Posted August 4, 2011 Bye bye 40bhp..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlos01 Posted August 4, 2011 Author Share Posted August 4, 2011 id rather be less 40 with it working than having zero hp and a non working injection set up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlos01 Posted August 5, 2011 Author Share Posted August 5, 2011 christ almighty. the carbs work so badly. so its back to efi and some really hefty troubleshooting im going to tow it to the scrappers i swear it i am Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 Keep with it! You'll get there in the end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeSheds Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 christ almighty. the carbs work so badly. so its back to efi and some really hefty troubleshooting im going to tow it to the scrappers i swear it i am Where are you Karlos? Perhaps somebody on here would nip round and help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 6, 2011 Share Posted August 6, 2011 Just keep at at, stay patient & methodical. Bear in mind as you said yourself you've thrown this setup together from an assortment of unknown bits which have never run. So far we've established that: 12v at the injectors, pump works, spark works, injectors dont. would the ecu be buggered? So, the next step is to confirm that the ECU has the things it needs: 12v to the right pins (including when cranking), the TACH signal making it from your engine bay to Pin 1, and the return (ground) from the injectors making it back to the ECU. If it's got those it should at least make some attempt to squirt a bit of fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlos01 Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 well i think im getting somewhere. as i crank the engine it gives a nice 9v to the steering module BUT pin 4 of the ecu plug doesnt see any voltage at all. which is strange. i have 2 steering modules and both give the same result. if i knew which colour wire went where i could trace it back but part of me thinks both modules are indeed buggered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 8, 2011 Share Posted August 8, 2011 Have you attached the extra wire to the starter motor? ISTR that's where the steering module gets some of it's 12v from. Should be a white/red wired to the solenoid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlos01 Posted August 8, 2011 Author Share Posted August 8, 2011 i think ive had a brain wave. http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Downloads/Rover_PDFs/EfiCircuit01.pdf it doesnt mention a starter there so ill leave doing that but i might have a break in the wire along the white/red one from pin 4 to the cranking voltage. oooh fun and games hahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted August 11, 2011 Share Posted August 11, 2011 i think ive had a brain wave. http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Downloads/Rover_PDFs/EfiCircuit01.pdf it doesnt mention a starter there so ill leave doing that but i might have a break in the wire along the white/red one from pin 4 to the cranking voltage. oooh fun and games hahaha Top right shows the start position of the ignition Switch. The white/red is only live during cranking. So during crank you should have power at ECU pin 4 and steering module pin 3. Plus cold start injector and thermotime switch. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlos01 Posted August 12, 2011 Author Share Posted August 12, 2011 i think ive found the problem is the white only wire supposed to be ignition live only or cranking and ignition live? i ask that because there is power to the fuel pump relay and when i manually press the contacts of the relay together (i took the lid off) it makes the fuel pump work BUT when i turn the key it loses power when the contacts are made. im thinking its the white wire being a bit wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_d Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 White is ignition switched live and should remain on during cranking. Anything connected to the auxiliary position on the ignition switch will go off during cranking. If the white goes dead during cranking it may be connected to the wrong place on the ignition switch. I somehow doubt this as they are normally soldered connections so not something anyone is going to mess with. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlos01 Posted August 24, 2011 Author Share Posted August 24, 2011 its not in a landrover / rangie anymore its in another vehicle but came from a rangie and no one seems to know rover v8s like landrover guys so anyway, now i have it running on edis and i can confirm that the mj powers up, what wires go to what bit on the tps? i darent risk killing it. ive got white orange and black as per MJ 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 Glad to hear you got it running! Sorry, but what are you trying to do with the TPS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlos01 Posted August 24, 2011 Author Share Posted August 24, 2011 the megajolt needs a tps connection, not a map sensor. one wire is something like voltage to tps, another is voltage from and the other is tps earth. is got me muddled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 On the Rover: Yellow is +5v (voltage to tps) Red is signal (voltage from TPS) Green is GND Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlos01 Posted August 24, 2011 Author Share Posted August 24, 2011 AWESOME!!! my sincerest thanks go to everyone right now im not sure if anyone will be interested but i can stick a vid on here of it running on edis only???? ah here it is anyway http://s1189.photobucket.com/albums/z436/karlos01/?action=view¤t=5da44e11.mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted August 24, 2011 Share Posted August 24, 2011 Sounds to me like either your timing is WAY off or you have some plug leads the wrong way round, V8s sound nice even with open headers, I was filming this one, on MSnEDIS, for example: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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