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MJ on '89 RRC with flapper HEEEEELP!!!


karlos01

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well the pump only works with a tickle of the flap. there is a nice spark, 11.5v on the -ve of the coils. crank it over and it drops to 8v with a bit of variance.

12v at the injectors, pump works, spark works, injectors dont. would the ecu be buggered?

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well the pump only works with a tickle of the flap. there is a nice spark, 11.5v on the -ve of the coils. crank it over and it drops to 8v with a bit of variance.

12v at the injectors, pump works, spark works, injectors dont. would the ecu be buggered?

What about the resistor pack for the injectors? Give it a check.

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There is a really good step by step manual for fault finding the EFI system in the technical section on here. Found it really useful when I had the EFI.

Do you have access to an oscilloscope? If so might be worth putting it on pin1 of the ECU to check that that signal is working then on the injectors to see what they are trying to do. I have one here (assuming it still works, its pretty old!) but don't know where you are?

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christ almighty. the carbs work so badly. so its back to efi and some really hefty troubleshooting

im going to tow it to the scrappers i swear it i am

Where are you Karlos? Perhaps somebody on here would nip round and help?

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Just keep at at, stay patient & methodical. Bear in mind as you said yourself you've thrown this setup together from an assortment of unknown bits which have never run.

So far we've established that:

12v at the injectors, pump works, spark works, injectors dont. would the ecu be buggered?

So, the next step is to confirm that the ECU has the things it needs: 12v to the right pins (including when cranking), the TACH signal making it from your engine bay to Pin 1, and the return (ground) from the injectors making it back to the ECU. If it's got those it should at least make some attempt to squirt a bit of fuel.

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well i think im getting somewhere.

as i crank the engine it gives a nice 9v to the steering module BUT pin 4 of the ecu plug doesnt see any voltage at all. which is strange. i have 2 steering modules and both give the same result. if i knew which colour wire went where i could trace it back but part of me thinks both modules are indeed buggered.

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i think ive had a brain wave.

http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Downloads/Rover_PDFs/EfiCircuit01.pdf

it doesnt mention a starter there so ill leave doing that but i might have a break in the wire along the white/red one from pin 4 to the cranking voltage.

oooh fun and games hahaha

Top right shows the start position of the ignition Switch. The white/red is only live during cranking. So during crank you should have power at ECU pin 4 and steering module pin 3. Plus cold start injector and thermotime switch.

Steve

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i think ive found the problem

is the white only wire supposed to be ignition live only or cranking and ignition live?

i ask that because there is power to the fuel pump relay and when i manually press the contacts of the relay together (i took the lid off) it makes the fuel pump work BUT when i turn the key it loses power when the contacts are made.

im thinking its the white wire being a bit wrong

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White is ignition switched live and should remain on during cranking. Anything connected to the auxiliary position on the ignition switch will go off during cranking.

If the white goes dead during cranking it may be connected to the wrong place on the ignition switch. I somehow doubt this as they are normally soldered connections so not something anyone is going to mess with.

Steve

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  • 2 weeks later...

its not in a landrover / rangie anymore

its in another vehicle but came from a rangie and no one seems to know rover v8s like landrover guys

so anyway, now i have it running on edis and i can confirm that the mj powers up, what wires go to what bit on the tps?

i darent risk killing it. ive got white orange and black as per MJ 3

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