farmer_ben Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 hi people ive got a 19j 110 and the clutch master cylinder was leaking so i fitted a new one a few months later it was leaking again ,so i fitted another new one ,and now its leaking again !!surely they should last longer than a few months ???? anyone had same problem ? and any ideas how to fix it ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 If its made by br*tpart I would not be surprised. Failing that check the master cylinder is the correct one/ not full of debris. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoltan Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 I'm on my second B*part clutch master cylinder. these have leaked past the second seal so fluid has been running down the clutch pedal Wondered whether the pedal stop is wrong and the return spring is pulling at the piston too far and giving rise to a leak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 Fit genuine / Lucas girling and do the slave at the same time Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 & always adjust the clutch pedal pushrod afterwards before driving the vehicle, the extract from the workshop manual is in this forum, just search for clutch pedal adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Somethingwitty Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 I conceed that I am fortunate and, although no millionaire, I can afford to buy OEM / Genuine where it counts. However, I would strongly advise those tempted by B******* to look at what they expect - if it is hydraulic I will nigh on bet a weeks wages that it will fail in very short order (even a year is too soon and many of these go in weeks!). There are many other components and classes of components (for example those machined to close tolerances - eg swivel pins) which routinely fail the satisfaction test - that is you fitting them, without any 'modification' and them working 'as advertised.' In the swivel pin example there is NO excuse for a pin to be machined out of tolerance, too large a diameter to fit - just indicative of poor/non-existant quality control. Buying cheap for such components is seriously false economy (particularly if you pay someone to fit it for you). You need money to save money - but if you can possibly afford the Lucas / Lockheed /Delphi / Girling OEM route etc then steer well clear of the 'Quality' parts - 90 % of those I've encountered are abysmal and short lived (the Td5 speedo transducer is another that springs to mind). Good luck with fixing it, some sound advise from those before me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajh Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 Stick a probe from an indoor/outdoor cheap digital thermostat on the new master and keep an eye on it to see how warm things get there. If you're getting too much heat it could be contributing. Of course thinking about it you're probably RHD but don't list your location, those of us who're LHD have the clutch pretty close to the exhaust downpipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 I managed to get a real SOLID rock return spring on my clutch pedal. (SWIMBO calves have been built by this ). I did this to offset the pressure on the vacuum pump in the cylinder. Clutch has been on for 4 years now!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cosecon Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 I used to have the same problem... The original failed at 25.000km I needed a new master cylinder. I tried a new Land Rover part....exactly 25.000km again. Then I tried a Lucas repair kit.....22.000 km ..... Then I went to a local brake repair store ( really small dirty and untrustworthy) with the small piston in hand and the old guy gave me a seal from a Jap car that fitted....It has done more than 45.000km and no drop... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 Yotata part solves a landy problem... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushwhacker Posted July 28, 2011 Share Posted July 28, 2011 Yes stick to the tried and trusted brands if you can. They have all been going for a long time, reason being they are better manufactured and out last pattern parts. If you fit and do most of your own work it can be (fun) changing parts sooner than really necessary or not fun, the choice is yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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